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Safer, cleaner cuts on the miter saw
It is difficult to cut small pieces of mitered trim on a power miter saw. The short sections often get eaten up between the blade and the fence or the blade and the guard. Even if the piece survives, you have to mount a search mission underneath the saw to find it. Also, you can get tearout, which will destroy a small molding, leaving scarcely any smooth, flat surface for a good glue joint.
To solve all of these problems, support small pieces of molding while mitering them by adding an auxiliary wooden fence to your miter-saw table. I've made many fences of different sizes to fit whatever molding I need to miter. First, cut a rabbet in the front edge of the auxiliary fence to accommodate the size of the molding. Then make three registration cuts in the fence— one at each 45° angle and one at 90°. To keep from cutting the auxiliary fence in two, make the registration cuts only as deep as necessary to crosscut the molding.
Because the auxiliary fence supports the molding on both sides, you get cleaner cuts. You'll find the auxiliary fence especially useful on really short pieces, and the sawkerfs in the fence serve as reference points for your cuts. Mark the cut, slide the line to the edge of the kerf, and cut away. All of the guesswork is eliminated.
Shallow registration cuts
Align cut mark on workpiece with registration cut.
Trim to be mitered
Mark trim for miter cut.
Furniture Parts Ready-toFinish
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Classic Designs by MATTHEW BUR AK
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