Rip Fence Ebook
Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips
There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.
When I set out to build this case, I intended to use it to protect some of my favorite chisels. But as soon as I finished it, Cheryl walked into the shop and hinted that it was too nice for those cruddy old chisels. But wouldn't it make a terrific-jewelry case Then Janet (Steve's wife) suggested, If it were just a little bigger, it would be perfect for silverware.
To raise a panel on the table saw without adjusting the angle of the blade, use the shop built jig shown at right. Refer to the illustration for suggested dimensions. Screw the lip along the bottom edge of the angled fence make sure you position the screws where they will not interfere with the blade. Prop the angled fence against the auxiliary fence at the same angle as the cutting line marked on a panel (page 95), using a sliding bevel to transfer the angle. Cut triangular supports to fit precisely between the two fences, then fix them in place with screws. Countersink the fasteners so the panel will slide smoothly along the angled fence. To use the jig, position it on the saw table with the joint between the lip and the angled fence about Vb inch from the blade. Butt the table saw's rip fence against the jig's auxiliary fence and screw the two together. Turn on the saw and crank up the blade slowly to cut a kerf through the lip. Next, seat the panel in the jig and adjust the height...
After I purchased your Bench Top Router Table plan booklet 12, I realized that my shop is really too small to have another work table sitting around. So I used some of the ideas in your plan and built a router table that fits into the wing of my table saw. The nice thing about this setup is that it doesn't take up any bench or floor space. All I did was replace the table extension on the right side of my old 8 Delta table saw with a plywood extension that sits between the two rip fence guide bars. After the birch edging was attached, I cut a groove in the edge nearest the saw table for the bar of the miter gauge. To attach this extension, I drilled two Ya holes in both the front and back rip fence guide rails. Then I drilled corresponding holes in the birch edging of the extension, and installed Va (inside diameter) threaded inserts. To attach the plywood table to the rip fence guide bars, I used W x 1 Rh machine screws threaded through the guide bars and into the threaded inserts in...
Bob Wearing, in his book Making Woodwork Aids & Devices, has an excellent jig for cutting the cheeks of tenons. It uses the mitre-guide slots on a table saw, and is quite sophisticated in that it allows angled tenons to be cut. A simpler version could be made for 90 only operation. As the table saw's riving knife and crown guard have to taken off for this jig, a separate guard will have to be made. A simple version is shown in Bob's book. A cross-cutting box can also be made using the bed slots of a table saw.This is also made from plywood, the size depends on your saw. Start with the runners these should be made to fit slightly below the level of the table, so that when they are screwed to the base they will ride free of the bottom of the groove. Once cut to size, put the base board against the rip fence - this will make sure it is square to the bed slots -then with the runners in their slots mark out and drill the screw holes. Screw and glue the runners in place, then make the front...
You can use the jig shown at right to cut tenons on the table saw. Adapt the dimensions suggested in the illustration to customize the jig for your saw, if necessary. Cut the jig fence and back from 3 i-inch plywood and saw a 45 bevel at one end of each board the pieces should be wider than the height of your saw's rip fence. Fasten two pieces together face to face to fashion the back, then use countersunk screws to attach the fence and back in an L shape. Make sure the fasteners will not be in the blade's path when you use the jig. Next, cut the brace from solid stock, bevel its ends, and attach it flush with the top edges of the fence and back, forming a triangle. Make the clamp by face gluing two pieces of -inch plywood and cutting the assembly into the shape shown. Use a hanger bolt, washer, and wing nut to attach the clamp to the jig back, leaving a gap between the edge of the clamp and the fence equal to the thickness of the stock you will use. Offset the bolt so the clamp can...
A heavy duty radial or swing saw mounted on a long wooden table is a regular item of equipment in most joinery workshops for the rapid crosscutting of squared up boards and timbers. It is less common in cabinet-making shops simply because waney edge boards are more commonly used. Many shops do have a lighter version, the radial arm saw, which has been particularly developed for the home craftsman and has a versatility that enables many processes from ripping to drilling to be accomplished on one machine. Its main use for the professional, though, with other machinery at his disposal, is for crosscutting and trenching dadoing (cutting long housings) for book-shelving and similar carcass work.
To cut dadoes in the legs for inlay banding on a router table, install a -inch straight bit in a router and mount the tool in a table. Adjust the cutter for a -inch-deep cut. Next, attach an extension board to the miter gauge. To ensure that the dadoes are parallel to the ends of the leg, the miter gauge must be set to the appropriate angle. Hold the tapered part of the leg flush against the miter gauge extension while butting the handle of a try square against the leg's square portion. Adjust the miter gauge so the miter bar is parallel to the blade of the square (left). Miter gauge extension Position the leg against the miter gauge extension so the bottom end is 33 ie inch to the right of the bit. To ensure all the dadoes will be aligned, butt a stop block against the end of the leg and clamp it to the extension. To cut the first dado, hold the leg flush against the extension and stop block, and feed the leg and miter gauge across the table into the bit. Turn the blank to the...
It is hardly necessary to have complete sets of mortise-, firmer- and bevelled edged chisels for furniture-making, as the bevelled-edged will do everything necessary. Nor are complete sets of any one type essential, for there will always be three or four favourites to which the hand automatically turns. A first selection could be 1 8 in (3 mm), 1 4 in (6 mm), 3 8 in (9 mm), 1 2 in (12.5 mm) and 4 in (19 mm) bevelled edge (61 lA) with the addition of a 1 16 in (1.5 mm) firmer type (61 lB) and perhaps a 1 2in (12.5 mm) mortise-chisel (61 lC), with the later addition of a long paring-chisel (61 4B), and a butt- or sash-pocket chisel (61 4c) for fitting work away from the workshop. Various types of chisel handles are shown in 61 3. Figure 61 3A shows the universally popular box or ash carving handle 61 3B the traditional round ash 61 3C the oval splitproof plastic handle, either in polypropylene or the transparent cellulose acetate butyrate which is tougher but more expensive, and 61 3D...
1 read your article in Wood smith No. 3Son palm sanders and would like to make a few comments. The most disappointing thing about your article is that you say nothing about how the sanders sand and this is a disservice to your readers. In the tests we conducted in our shop, we found no distinguishable difference in the quality of the finish produced by either the Makita or the Porter-Cable palm sanders. The only time any of the palm sanders we reviewed produced visible swirl marks were wiien we used coarse grit sandpaper. When we switched to medium or fine grit sandpaper, there were never any visible swirl marks using any of the sanders,
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With the exception of the coping saw, all the hand saws I use are hard-point saws. This means that the teeth are hardened so that they stay sharp for a long time, Hand saws are normally categorized by the number of teeth to the inch. The smaller the teeth, the finer the saw cut.
Most furniture-makers require turned components from time to time, from chair legs to turned drawer knobs, so it makes sense, if space permits, to undertake this within the workshop. The woodturning lathe can also be a useful source of income, and bowls and platters, often from the waste products of furniture-making, can keep apprentices and trainees gainfully employed between orders. It is preferable to purchase as heavy a machine as
As a rough approximation it is usual to take one-third of the diameter of a circular saw as its effective cut, therefore a 15 in (381 mm) saw giving a cut of about 5 in (127 mm) would be about the minimum for general work. However, many large concerns do not use timber thicker than 11 2 in (38 mm) building up for larger dimensions, and this greatly simplifies their stocks, while large-diameter saws are no 100 Startrite 9 in (228 mm) tilt arbor table saw 101 Wadkin heavy duty 10 in (254 mm) tilt arbor table saw 102 Radial arm saw (bench model). (By courtesy of DeWalt) longer necessary and most of the work is done on the 12 in (304 mm) sliding-table panel-saw (45B) which is an excellent compromise if large boards of ply and chipboard are used to any great extent. Additionally it is never advisable to fit small saws for ripping out stringers and bandings, etc. to large-diameter table saws, but they could be used in the smaller saws. (Where space permits it is advisable to double up with...
At the time of Renaissance no sharp line was drawn between arts and craftsmen. The builder who built the house also provided for its furnishings, the sculptor began his career as a stone-mason or goldsmith, and famous artists have even painted furniture l). Nevertheless there were specialists2) in intarsia-making and wood-carving of great renown, and more especially artist-painters of chests3). But the influence of famous artists on the build and decoration of the furniture is beyond question.
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While there are many tools that you can use to carve, the two that are most handy are V-shaped and U-shaped carving tools. Before carving on the surface with your design, practice with a scrap of the material you will be using. 3. Now work to perfect the angle with which you hold the tool. Aim to hold the carving tool at an angle, as parallel as possible to the design (right). This will allow you to make horizontal, shallow cuts. Hold the carving tool as parallel as possible to the design, and carve by pushing the handle forward, away from your body. Hold the carving tool as parallel as possible to the design, and carve by pushing the handle forward, away from your body. 2. After carving the perimeter, move on to other lines in the design. Whenever possible, carve away from your image. When following the curves of your design, rotate the block itself, rather than rotating the carving tool.
For the whetting or honing of ground edges (and all edge tools are supplied ground but not honed) a variety of stones are necessary. They can be either India, carborundum, or the slower cutting Washita, which is an inferior form of Arkansas, while true Arkansas is very scarce and expensive. Both India and carborundum grits are artificial, and therefore their quality is consistent, but Washita is a natural stone and can vary considerably, with an occasional piece almost too hard to cut the best, however, will give an excellent edge. All these stones are usually bought in the standard size of 8 in (203 mm) by 2 in (50 mm) by 1 in (25 mm) for sharpening chisels, plane-irons, etc., and should be mounted in a wooden box with a lid (Figure 65), or otherwise covered when not in use.
So what good are they Diamond stones are ideal for the initial (coarse) honing needed to flatten the backs of chisels and plane irons. In Woodsmith No. 20 and 23 we talked about the process we use to sharpen these tools. In both cases the face (flat) side must be honed to remove grinding marks (left by the manufacturing process) and to take out any warp across the width of the chisel or plane iron. This kind of rapid cutting action provides one of the best wrays we know to flatten chisels and plane irons. And if you don't have a grinder (or don't want to risk a burned edge), diamond stones are very helpful for cutting the initial bevel along the cutting edge.
Need good sharp wood chisels, a back saw and a coping saw, as well as a good small steel rule. The job is easier with power tools, including i router and an electric scroll saw. To make mitered joints by hand, you should have a miter box, a wood or metal box with slots already cut in its sides. The hacksaw blade fits through these slots. The work to be cut goes into the box, and the slots guide your saw so that you make even cuts at the required angle.
DURING THE TRANSITIONAL PERIOD CLASSIC DETAILS WERE COMBINED WITH GOTHIC CONSTRUCTION. LATER THE PURE RENAISSANCE WAS ESTABLISHED. WOOD-CARVERS ADAPTED THE PRINCIPAL MOTIFS OF THE DAY WHICH CONSISTED OF FOLIAGE BANDED WITH RIBBON, SWAGS OF FRUIT AND FLOWERS, THE ACANTHUS LEAF, AND THE ARABESQUE. FURNITURE BECAME MORE VARIED IN DESIGN AND WAS AUGMENTED BY MANY PIECES UNKNOWN IN THE FIFTEENTH CENTURY.
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE STYLE A TRANSITIONAL PERIOD SIMILAR TO THAT OF ITALY BUT OF LONGER DURATION, GOTHIC ART BEING MORE FIRMLY ROOTED IN FRANCE THAN IN THE SOUTH. THE ORNAMENT OF THE FRENCH RENAISSANCE WAS IN A LIGHTER VEIN AND LESS DEPENDENT ON ANTIQUE MODELS. DELICATE ARABESQUES AND PIERCED SHIELDS WERE USED BY FURNITURE-MAKERS AND DECORATORS. LATER IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY WOOD-CARVERS COMBINED AN INTERLACED RIBBON ORNAMENT WITH THE LOZENGE AND THE CARTOUCHE, WHICH WAS FOLLOWED BY THE INTRODUCTION OF THE SHELL AND THE ORNATE SCROLL. FROM THAT DATE FURNITURE-MAKING DECLINED IN SIMPLICITY.
Clamp the seat down and fit a hand brace with a spoon bit the same diameter as the small end of the leg tenons. Use a straightedge and a sliding bevel to help you drill the compound-angle holes. This will enable the legs to splay out from the side of the seat at the proper angle and be angled or raked toward the front or back of the chair. Position the straightedge across the seat at the correct splay angle of 105 , or 15 from the perpendicular (page 73). Then adjust the sliding bevel to the required rake angle, which is 100 for the front legs and 115 for the rear legs, or 10 and 25 from vertical. Position the sliding bevel on the straightedge. Then, center the bit on the mortise mark and begin drilling, keeping the hand brace parallel to the straightedge and the bit lined up with the slope of the bevel (left). Repeat the procedure to bore the remaining leg mortises.
With the chair test-assembled, position the side stretchers on the legs and mark their locations. Then remove the legs from the seat and secure one in a vise. Because the legs are raked to the front and back of the chair, the stretcher mortises in the legs must be angled. Adjust a sliding bevel to the correct angle, referring to the anatomy illustration on page 73. For the front legs the angle is 15 from the vertical for the rear legs, it is 20 . Install a spoon bit in a hand brace, set the sliding bevel on the benchtop, and keep the brace aligned with the bevel blade as you drill each mortise (above).
Once all the spline grooves have been cut, dry-fit the staves together with the splines. Use surgical tubing to hold the assembly together. To level the staves at the top and bottom, both ends of each piece will have to be beveled. To determine the bevel angle, hold a board as a straightedge across the top of the assembly and use a sliding bevel to measure the angle between the outside face of a stave and the straightedge (left). Tilt your table saw blade to the measured angle and clamp an extension board to the miter gauge. Align the cutting mark at one end of the stave with the blade, then butt a stop block against the end of the stock and clamp it to the extension. Angle the miter gauge so the ends will be cut straight across. Then, holding the work-piece flush against the extension and stop block, bevel the end of each stave (below). Use the same setup to bevel the opposite ends of the staves. Miter gauge extension
Start sizing the seat slats at the back of the bench. To determine the exact angle at which you will need to miter the ends of the slats, hold the first blank in position on the seat supports and against the legs and use a sliding bevel to measure the angle formed by the slat and one leg. Adjust the miter gauge on your table saw to this angle. To locate your cutting lines on the board, mark lines along the front edges of the legs that divide their thickness in half. Then, with the slat blank in position, draw the cutting marks Vs Inch inside those on the legs (left). This will leave the required V4-gap between slats. Trim the slat to length and use it to size the remaining ones. Then fasten the slats to the seat supports with two screws at each end, leaving a V4-gap between the pieces.
Clamp the arm to a work surface, centering a backup board under the hole you will be drilling. Also install a spoon bit in a hand brace and a small clamp on the edges of the stock in line with the hole mark to prevent the wood from splitting as you drill. Adjust a sliding bevel to the backward slant of the spindles, place it on the table, and align the bit with the bevel blade to bore the holes (right).
At first i considered using a flush-trim router bit. But there Isn't a wide enough surface on the computer desk to support the router. And on the kid's table, the framing strips are wider than the cutting edge on my flush-trim bit. two-step method. i settled on a two-step, hand tool method. First, I planed off a majority of the cut with a block plane, see drawing below. Then, I scraped the rest down flush with a hand scraper. Start by running a strip of masking tape right along the joint line to protect the plywood or Formica. Then plane the edging strip down with a block plane just until the masking ta K* stalls to tear. When using this jig you have to perform three operations at once. First, you have to hold the workpiece tight against the jig. Then you have to hold the jig (and the workpiece) tight against the table saw rip fence. Finally, you have to push the jig forward through the saw blade while trying to keep the workpiece against the jig and the jitf against...
I can still remember the day 1 purchased my first table saw (a dream come true). I was so excited I could hardly stand it. After making a cut on the closest piece of wood, 1 examined the piece expecting to find the perfect edge. Boy was I surprised The finish was so poor I would have been better off using a hand saw. I double checked every possible adjustment on the table saw, only to discover that the culprit was the blade, not the saw. So I decided to stretch my already taxed budget, and buy a good saw blade.
built the router table in Woodsmith No. 20, and was happy with the design until I ran into a problem. A chip of wood dropped down into my Sears router, and the fan blades started to break off. Then the fan blades fell down into the armature, causing the entire unit to self destruct In the end, I guess it's a trade-off between having the added versatility of a router table versus the chance of debris entering the motor and causing damage. And as you mentioned, the most likely time for debris to enter the motor is when it's not running. To help prevent this I try to take the time to clean off the top of the router table after each use. The small amount of time it takes is well spent. Using splines, on the other hand, eliminates a lot of these problems. All you have to do is cut a slot in the boards, and slip the spline in the slot. Cutting an accurately positioned slot is relatively easy to do just keep the face of each board against the fence of the table saw with feather boards. (You...
Remove the waste between the mortise sides with a mallet and chisel. Mount the stile to your work bench as shown, clamping it firmly in place. Select a chisel the same width as the mortise, or as close as possible without being wider. To clean out the waste, place the chisel Vs inch in from the bottom of the mortise and tap it with a mallet so it sinks about Viinch. Set the chisel back toward the end of the board by about lA and tap towards the first cut to remove a small notch of waste. Continue in this manner until you reach about half-way. Turn the board over and remove the rest of the waste. Finally pare straight down at the shoulder line (above).
If your shop does not have a high ceiling you may not be able to cut the mortises in the stiles using the table saw and the tenoning jig. Instead, saw them by hand. With a rail tenon as a guide, mark the shoulder line and the sides of the mortise on the edges and end of each stile. Then mount the stock on your workbench at an angle as shown. This setup makes it easier to cut straight sides. With a back saw, cut down from the corner, keeping the blade on both lines (above). Stop when the saw blade touches the shoulder line and the opposite corner. Cut its neighboring side, then turn the board over and cut the other diagonal kerfs. Finally, finish the sides by cutting straight down to the shoulder lines.
It to your home ccntcr. where you and the salesman can select the right bit. Then go home and play with the router. Practice cutting edges on some scrap wood before doing it on the new comer. Once you have mastered use of the tool, clamp the piece to your workbench and rout the edge of the new wood patch to match the existing edge of the table.
Mark the area to be removed with an X and use a fine dovetail saw (15 tpi or more) to cut to the line. Saw the pins, making sure not to cut into the lap or the inside of the drawer. Chop out the cheeks of the pins that cannot be cut with the saw. Clamp the pin board inside-face up to the workbench. Start away from the shoulder line and alternate chisel blows between horizontal and vertical. Do not undercut the lap or shoulder too much. Place the board back in the vise and pare (trim) the cheeks. Use the back of the chisel to
Certain basic machines are indispensable to every workshop even where hand work predominates. These are circular table saw radial arm-saw band-saw planers spindle moulder shaper mortiser horizontal borer overhead table router drill-press bench-grinder sanders and lathes. If much veneer-work is done then either a screw-operated or vacuum-bag veneerpress will need a high priority, while production shops would place the dovetailing-machine and belt sander high on the list. Where it is intended to install only the most basic machines then obviously the table saw, planer and band-saw will take pride of place.
If the grooves are worked with a spindle-shaper or router they can be stopped well clear of the ends and the tongues cut back accordingly (134 5), but if worked with grooving- or combination-plane or circular saw it is more difficult to stop the grooves and they can be allowed to run through, either showing the ends of the tongues which is not objectionable if well done or cutting back and filling in with carefully selected end-grain pieces (134 6). Twin grooves and loose tongues (134 2) save timber width moreover, solid tongues (134 1) worked with matched cutters in a combination-plane are not wholly satisfactory, for the carefully planed edge has to be cut back to form the tongue, and the tightness of the joint may suffer. With machine-cutters, however, solid tongues are so easily formed they are standard practice in production-work and 135 shows the variations possible.
Use the nail as the pivot for a string compass. and mark a circle with a radius of IB.h on the top planks. (See Figure 4.) Cut this circle with a sabre saw. After you've sawn the circle, remove the scrap that you nailed to the table top. Sand away the saw marks with a belt sander. TKY THi f If you're making this project from pressure-treated lumber, take it easy when you cut the top with a sabre saw. This sort of lumber is wetter than most, so the saw blade binds, heats up. and snaps easily. Let the blade cool down every few minutes.
Install a dado head on your table saw and adjust its width to accommodate the drawer slides you will use typically inch thick. Set the cutting height at 3 s inch and position the rip fence to cut the groove in the middle of the drawer sides. Feed the drawer side-down, holding the edges flush against the fence. Turn the drawer over to cut the groove in the other side (above).
All of the dadoes and rabbets for the half-laps used to assemble the end units can be cut on the table saw (photo, above) except for those on the back edges of the rear legs for the back seat rail. These are cut on a band saw because the cuts are located on the inside of the leg curves, and the stock cannot rest flat on a table saw table at these points. Start by making all the table saw cuts, then outline the remaining dado on each rear leg. Feeding the stock into the blade with both hands, cut the sides of the dado with two cross-grain cuts, then make a series of curved (above) and straight cuts to remove the remaining waste. Referring to the anatomy illustration and cutting list on the preceding pages, cut the arms, arm support slats, and the end and stretcher rails. To outline the curved rear legs on the stock, start by making a plywood or hardboard template the legs are vertical from their bottom ends to the seat and then curve backward at about 10 , an angle that most users will...
Cut the groove for the slats along the rail on your table saw equipped with a dado head. Adjust the width of the blades to the slat thickness inch and the cutting height to 1 Inch. Center the rail over the blades and butt the rip fence against the stock. To help keep the rail pressed against the fence, clamp a feather-board to the saw table, braced by a support board installed at a 90 angle round over the top edge of the featherboard to facilitate lowering the workpiece onto the blades. To help you determine
Cut the legs to size, then outline the tenons on their bottom ends, using the mortises in the feet as a guide. Cut the tenons on your table saw fitted with a dado head adjust the width of the head to slightly more than one-half the tenon length about 1 inch. You will saw the tenon sides and edges in two passes each, eliminating the need to attach an auxiliary fence. To position the rip fence, align the shoulder line on the leg with the dado head and butt the fence against the end of the board the fence should be well clear of the blades. Start by cutting the sides of the tenon (page 71). For the edges, align the end of the board with the dado head and make a pass, then turn the leg over and repeat. To complete the tenon, align the shoulder line with the head and feed the board with the miter gauge, riding the end of the workpiece against the fence. Turn the board over and repeat (left).
The corners of the tenon shoulders must be mltered to mate properly with the stiles. Remove the auxiliary fence from the table saw fence and install a crosscut or combination blade. Set the blade angle to 45 , make a test cut in a scrap board, and check the result with a combination square. Adjust the fence position and blade height so the cut is as wide and deep as the width of the edge molding. (The blade teeth should just protrude beyond the tenon shoulder.) To make the cuts, hold the piece flush against the fence and miter gauge as you feed it edge down into the blade. Repeat the cuts on the ends of each molded edge of the remaining rails (left).
Plan on setting aside a full weekend to build the coat tree and a few evenings to do the finishing. While a radial arm saw is the ideal tool for cutting the joints in this project, they can be cut on a table saw, but with more effort. A table saw will still come in handy, though, as will a drill press and a band saw. To bring out the warmth of the cherry in the completed project, Nordic Oil is the recommended finish. then rout the rim of the holes on both sides with a 1 4 roundover bit. Once the holes are completed, band saw the cross members and braces to shape. Putting the coat tree together is done in stages, beginning with gluing two braces to each post. While the glue is drying, cut your wedges (pieces 5) to size. For safety, use a couple of 2 long by 4 wide pieces of 1 2 stock, cutting just four wedges from each piece. This will ensure that your fingers never get too close to the blade. Tilt your table saw miter gauge 2lk to get the correct slope on the wedge sides, as shown in...
Cut the recess on the seat's top surface on your table saw. Start by marking the profile of the seat on the workpiece. Referring to the anatomy illustration on page 48, outline the shape of the ends on the bottom face and end grain of the blank. To outline the recess, set the seat top facedown on your table saw and crank the blade to the desired depth of cut. Position the seat so the recess will be centered between the middle and the back edge, then outline the blade on the end of the stock and mark a reference line on the saw table along the seat's front edge (right). Now clamp a board as a guide so that its edge is aligned with the reference line.
You can make four strips, one for each corner of the pie safe, from a single 4-inch-wide board that is long enough to extend from top to bottom of the cabinet. Install a dado head on your table saw and set the width equal to the thickness of the shelf supports you will use. Determine the desired spacing of the notches typically about 2 inches and cut two dadoes that distance apart in a miter gauge extension board. Align the left-hand dado with the blades and screw the extension to the
The next step in making the rails is to cut the tenons that will fit into the leg mortises. Start by drilling a test mortise (page 37), then outline the tenons on the ends of the rails, using the test mortise as a guide. Cut the tenons on your table saw fitted with a dado head adjust the width of the head to slightly more than the tenon length about inch. Set the cutting height at one-third the stock thickness. Attach an auxiliary fence to the saw's rip fence and an extension board to the miter gauge. To position the fence, align the shoulder line on the rail with the dado head and butt the fence against the end of the board. Feed the rail face down, holding the stock flush against the fence and the miter gauge extension. Turn the rail over and repeat the cut on the other side (above), fitting the tenon in the test mortise and raising the blades until the fit is snug. Cut tenon cheeks at the other end and repeat for each side and end rail. Next, flip the rail on edge and adjust the...
The sides are made from two boards glued together after the notches and the pins of the dovetail joint are cut in them. Outline the notches on the edges of each side piece, then cut them on your table saw. Install a dado head on the saw and set the cutting height to the notch width. Screw a board to the miter gauge as an extension. Make several passes to cut each notch (right), feeding the stock up on edge with the miter gauge. Use the rip fence as a guide for cutting up to the notch end line.
Once all the tenons are finished, you will need to cut a groove along the top frame rails of the safe to accommodate the wood buttons that will secure the cabinet top in place. Install a dado head on your table saw, adjust its width to inch, and set the cutting height at about 7 s inch. Position the rip fence about inch from the blades and install two featherboards to support the rails, clamping one to the fence above the dado head and another to the table. Brace the second featherboard with a support board. Feed the rails into the dado head inside-face down and with the top edge pressed against the fence (right). Finish each pass with a push stick.
Cut the rabbets at the ends of the back slats on your table saw. Install a dado head and adjust its width to slightly more than Vz inch. Then attach an auxiliary fence, position the fence for a ' -inch cutting width, and raise the blades into the wooden fence to notch it, making sure that the dado head is clear of the metal one. Adjust the cutting height to one-half the slat thickness and screw an extension board to the miter gauge. Feed the slats rounded-over side up, holding the stock flush against the fence and miter gauge extension while you make the cut (above).
Cut the top drawer rail to length, then outline the dovetailed half-laps that will join the ends of the rail to the front legs of the table. Offset the outline toward the back edge of the rail so the dovetail will be centered on the leg when the rail's back edge is flush with the back face of the leg (step 2). Cut out the dovetails on your band saw, making two intersecting cuts along each edge of the outlines (left). Then use your table saw fitted with a dado head to cut away one-half the thickness of the dovetails from their bottom face (inset).
Once all the tenons are finished, you will need to cut a groove along the inside face of the rails to accommodate the wood buttons that will secure the tabletop in place. Leave the dado head on your table saw, adjust its width to inch, and set the cutting height at about inch. Position the fence about inch from the blades. Feed the rails into the dado head inside-face down and with the top edge pressed against the fence (left). Also cut a groove in the end rail blank at this time. This will ensure that all the grooves are identical. (Caution Blade guard removed for clarity.)
Use your table saw to cut a 3 8-inch-wide rabbet (page 59) along the sides of the frame. Begin with a shallow depth of cut, increasing the depth by inch with each pass until the fall-front's bottom edge is ' i6 inch above the top of the drawer unit when the fall-front is in position. Once you are satisfied with the fit, lay the fall-front veneer-face down on the lop-ers and butt the bottom edge against the top of the drawer section. Position and outline the three hinges on the pieces one in the middle and one each near the sides centering the hinge pin on the seam between the fall-front and the carcase. To cut the hinge mortises, install a 1 -inch straight bit in your router, set the cutting depth to the hinge leaf thickness, and cut out the waste inside the outline. Use a chisel, a carving gouge, and a wooden mallet to pare to the line (left). Test-fit the hinges in their mortises and use the chisel to deepen or widen any of the recesses, if necessary.
Referring to the illustration below, fashion a template for the legs. The grain should follow the slope of the leg, the top and bottom ends must be perpendicular, and the spread of the legs must be less than the diameter of the top. Once the template is complete, saw along the top end of the leg on the band saw. Next, cut the dovetails in the legs in two steps, cutting the cheeks on your table saw and the shoulders by hand. Adjust the table saw's blade angle to match that of the sockets you cut in the column and set the cutting height to slightly less than the depth of the sockets. Outline the dovetails on the edge of one leg blank and, holding the blank on end on the saw table, align a cutting mark with the blade. Butt the rip fence against the stock and lock it in place. Clamp a shimmed featherboard to the table and a guide block to the blank. Make a pass to cut one cheek (left), then rotate the blank and feed the opposite face along the fence to saw the other. Check the resulting...
Cut open mortise-and-tenons on your table saw using the shop-made jig shown in the inset. Refer to the dimensions suggested, making sure the thickness of the spacer and width of the brace enable the jig to slide along the rip fence without wobbling. Cut the body and brace from -inch plywood and the guide and spacer from solid wood. Saw an oval hole for a handle in the jig body and attach the guide to the body in front of the handle. Screw a wood block to the body below the handle and attach a toggle clamp to the block. Finally, fasten the spacer and brace in place. To cut the tenon cheeks In the door rails, butt the workpiece against the guide and clamp it in place. Set the cutting height to the tenon length, position the fence to align one of the cutting marks on the rail with the blade and slide the jig along the fence to make the cut (above). Turn the rail around to cut the other cheek, then repeat the cuts at the other end of the rail and at both ends of the remaining rails.
You will need to cut a notch in the back edge of the top panel and top trim piece of the clock case to accommodate the backboard. Outline the notch in the middle of the edge of each piece. Leave the dado head and miter gauge extension on your table saw, but move the fence out of the way. To cut the notches, align the dado head with one end of the outline, raise the blades to the thickness of the backboard, and use the miter gauge to feed the panel into the cut. Then, slide the work-piece along the extension by the width of the kerf and make another pass (left), continuing until you reach the other end of the outline. Use the same setup to prepare the top trim piece for the backboard.
The rails are attached to the top ends of the legs with bridle joints. Start by cutting the recesses in the rails that enable them to mesh with the mortises you will saw in the legs. Outline the rail profile on your blanks and mark the shoulders of the recesses 2 inches to each side of the middle of the boards. Adjust the dado head on your table saw as wide as it will go and set the cutting height at lA inch. Screw an extension to the miter gauge, align one of the shoulder marks on the rail with the dado head, and butt the fence against the end of the stock. Feed the rail with the miter gauge, pressing the stock against the fence. Flip the rail to cut a shoulder on the other face, then rotate the piece and cut the shoulders at the other end of the recesses (left). Move the fence out of the way and remove the remaining waste.
Cut the front, back, and sides of the drawer to fit into the opening in the table. The back is narrower than the other pieces to allow the bottom to slide into place after the drawer is glued up. Cut the through dovetails joining the pieces (page 130), then cut the grooves for the bottom panel in the front and side pieces on your table saw. Position the fence so the groove will pass through the middle of the bottommost tails on the drawer sides and set the blade height to one-half the stock thickness. Use a push stick to feed the pieces face down across the saw table, while pressing the stock against the fence. Repeat on the remaining pieces, then move the fence away from the blade by the thickness of the kerf and repeat on all three boards (right). Test-fit your bottom panel typically Winch plywood in the grooves and widen them, if necessary.
Replace the dado head on your table saw with a combination blade, crank it as high as it will go, and cut the mortises at the top ends of the legs with the help of a commercial tenoning jig the model shown above slides in the miter slot. Clamp the leg upright in the jig, position the jig to center the blade on the edge of the workpiece, and feed the stock into the cut. Then move the jig very slightly away from the blade to enlarge the mortise. Make another pass, turn the leg around in the jig, and feed it into the blade again (above). Next, test-fit one of the rails in the mortise. If the fit is too tight, adjust the jig to shave a little more wood from the mortise and make two more passes, continuing until the rail fits snugly in the mortise.
Consisting of the side and end rails, and the legs, the frame of the serving trolley is assembled with half-lap joinery. On your table saw, install a dado head and adjust it to maximum width. Refer to the anatomy illustration opposite for the location and size of the rabbets and dadoes required. At the bottom end of the rear legs, for example, start by cutting a rabbet along the outside face to accept the lower side rail. The length of the rabbet should equal the width of the side rail and its depth should be one-half the stock thickness. Next, cut a rabbet along the outside edge of the leg to accommodate the lower end rail. Position the rip fence so you can feed the stock along the fence as you define the rabbet shoulder, then make a series of passes to remove the remaining waste (left). Guide the workpiece with the miter gauge for each of these passes.
Once the bedposts, end boards, and rails are glued up and assembled, it is time to prepare the testers that connect the top ends of the posts. Use your table saw to cut the half-laps that join the testers. Install a dado head, adjusting it to its maximum width, and set the cutting height at one-half the stock thickness. Screw an extension board to the miter gauge. Position the rip fence for a width of cut equal to the width of the testers, then cut each half-lap in two passes. Start by aligning the end of the board with the dado head and, holding the edge of the tester flush against the miter gauge extension, feed the stock into the cut. Make the second pass the same way, but with the end of the board flush against the fence (right). Bore a hole through the center of each half-lap at the end of the testers, using your drill press fitted with a bit the same diameter as the finial tenons inch. To prevent tearout, bore the holes in two steps Start by drilling halfway through the stock,...
You can cut the tenon cheeks in the end boards and rails with a router or a radial arm saw. If you do the job on a table saw, as shown here, you will need to set up an auxiliary table or work with a helper to keep the long workpieces steady as you feed them across the table. Start by installing a dado head on the saw, adjusting it to its widest setting. Attach a high auxiliary fence and an extension board to the miter gauge. Hold a carpenter's square against the fence and extension to ensure that they are perpendicular to each other and adjust the miter gauge, if necessary (above, left). Set the cutting height at about inch and make a cut across each face of a scrap board as thick as the end boards and rails. Test-fit the tenon in one of the post mortises, raising the dado head and making additional cuts, as necessary, until the fit is snug. Once the blade height is set, position the fence for a 114-inch-wide cut and clamp a featherboard to the fence above the dado head. Holding the...
Start making the frame-and-panel doors of the bookcase by cutting blind tenons at the ends of all the rails. To do the job on your table saw, install a dado head slightly wider than the tenon length. Attach an auxiliary wood fence and notch it by raising the dado head into it. Set the width of cut equal to the tenon length and adjust the cutting height to about one-third the thickness of the stock. Holding the rail flush against the miter gauge and the fence, feed the stock facedown into the blades to cut one tenon cheek. Turn the board over and make the same cut on the other side. Check for fit in a test mortise (step 4), then repeat the process on the other end of the board and on the other rails (above, left). To cut the tenon shoulders, set the cutting height at about Vz inch. Then, with the rail face flush against the miter gauge and the end butted against the fence, feed the workpiece into the blades. Turn the rail over and repeat the cut on the other side (above, right). Cut...
3Install a 'A dado blade in your table-saw, raise it 'A above the table, and set your rip fence to cut the groove centered in the rails, where shown on Drawing 1a. Cut this groove in the lower edge of the top side rails (B) and the back top rail (D), and the upper edge of the bottom side rails (C) and the back bottom rail (E). The front rails (D, E) are not grooved. Mark the centerpoints and drill the counterbores and pilot holes for the desktop fasteners on the top edges of the top side rails (B), where dimensioned on Drawing 4a. Use a 3A Forstner bit and a 4 twist drill in your drill press.
Before final glue-up, I cut the groove for the drawer bottom in the sides and fronts on the table-saw. The back was trimmed, as shown in the drawing on the facing page, so that the drawer bottom extends past the back and can move with the seasons. Planning the drawer bottom so that just the right amount protrudes lets the bottom act as a stop against the cabinet back when the drawer is closed.
I just finished reading your article on routers and your recommendations. Unfortunately, I feel that you made a mistake in choosing to reveiw only those routers that were under 200, and in excluding plunge routers. Under these parameters, both the Ma-kita and the Ryobi plunge routers were not reviewed. They're both available for under 200 from local discounters. I have used many types of routers over the years and have seen the problems associated with bit changing and depth adjustments. I now have a Makita plunge router and ha ve found it a dream to use. As for plunge routers, we exclude them from our first review because there simply wasn't room to review their special characteristics in the same article with the standard routers. We are planning to do a follow-up article on plunge routers (Makita, Ryobi, and the new Black and Decker) in an upcoming issue. The 12 StaiTett rule is square at both ends, which makes it exceptionally handy for all sorts of measuring tasks. (It's the only...
Safety note Set your tablesaw's rip fence as shown so that your stock cannot become trapped between the blade and fence. A trapped workpiece can kick back suddenly and violently, causing serious injury. 5 Chuck a 'A roundnose bit into your table-mounted router, and set its tip 3 i6 above the surface of the table as shown on Drawing 4. Then, set your fence 5A from the center of the bit, and rout the flutes.
2 Referring to Drawing 5, put a circle cutter in your drill press, and cut a 3 hole in the base (E). For safety, use a slow speed (250 rpm or less). 3Go to your table-mounted router, and install a piloted 'A rabbeting bit. Cut a rabbet lA deep on the bottom side of the base. 4 Fasten an auxiliary fence about 6 high to your tablesaw's rip fence, as shown on Drawing 6. Completely lower
3To cut the stub tenons on the ends of the rails, use a miter gauge with an attached wood extension for support, and cut a 'A rabbet 'A deep on both faces of each end of each rail. Wooden miter-gauge extension Miter gauge Wooden miter-gauge extension Miter gauge 5 To cut the raised panels, tilt your tablesaw blade 5 from vertical, and elevate the blade 2 above the saw table. Position the rip fence, test-cut scrap stock to create the same shape shown on Drawing 4b, and cut each edge of each panel. Sand the cut areas to remove saw marks.
Screw a board to the miter gauge as an extension. Then, holding one of the door rails against the extension, adjust the blade height to the depth of the tenon shoulder. Align the shoulder with the blade, butt a notched stop block against the stock, and clamp the block to the extension the notch in the stop block will prevent sawdust from accumulating between it and the workpiece. Holding the rail flush against the extension and the stop block, feed the stock with the miter gauge to cut the first shoulder. To saw the opposite shoulder, turn the rail over (right). Repeat to cut the tenon shoulders at the other end of the rail and in the remaining rails. (Caution Blade guard removed for clarity.)
Cut dadoes across the inside faces of the staves for the bottom with a similar setup you used for crosscutting the staves. Adjust the width of the dado head to 3A inch and tilt the blades to the same angle you measured in step 2. Set the cutting height to 3 s inch. Clamp the stop block to the miter gauge extension to locate the dado 3A inch from the bottom of the staves. Angle the miter gauge as you did in the previous step to compensate for the tapered sides of the staves. Hold the workpiece flush against the extension and the stop block as you feed it across the saw table (above).
Rip a total of 12 lineal feet of 3A -thick oak to 1 wide for the stiles (A) and rails (B). Plane or resaw to Ys thick. Attach an extension to your tablesaw's miter gauge. Clamp a stopblock to the extension, and crosscut the eight stiles to 1 V s long. Then, adjust the stopblock, and cut the eight rails to 51 8 long. Change to a dado blade, and cut 1 half-lap joints on the inside face of the stiles and the outside face of the rails. See Drawing 1 for reference. Glue and 3Put a Va piloted rabbeting bit into your table-mounted router. Adjust the depth of cut to the actual thickness of the stained glass you will be using. (Our glass measured s .) Rabbet the recess for the glass panels, where shown on Drawing 1. Square the corners of the rabbets with a chisel. 4 Bevel-cut all long edges of the four frames. But before you do, make test cuts on scrap lumber to ensure tight joints. Adjust your rip fence so the cut will be right at the corner of the frames, retaining their full 5' is width....
The back assembly Is composed of stiles joined to the two rails with half-laps. To cut the joint, use the same setup you made for sawing dadoes in the lower back rail (step 1). This time mark out the half-laps at the end of each rail and stile. The joint should be as wide as the stile stock. Butt the stock against the miter gauge extension, and line up the blades to cut the shoulder of the half-lap first. Then saw away the remaining waste with multiple passes (above). Repeat the procedure to cut the joint at the other end of the stock and in the remaining rail and stiles.
3 Next, set the depth of cut to just skim under the shoulder of the molding. Guide the stile through the blade with the miter gauge, making multiple passes. 6 Clamp a fence to the drill press and adjust it so the drill bit is exactly centered on the stile. Then drill a series of holes to rough out the mortise.
Plane the blank to 3 s thick. Use a dado blade in your tablesaw to cut the Vs dadoes 3 i6 deep, where shown on Drawing 4. To do this, attach an extension to your tablesaw's miter gauge. Next, clamp a stopblock to the extension, positioning it to make the edge of the first dado Va from the end, and make the cut. (See Drawing 3.) After you have cut all the dadoes, trim the ends of the blank to reduce its length to 5Va . Rip the grille blank to make eight stiles 5 s wide. the blade, and fit your tablesaw with a new wood or plastic insert. To make it into a zero-clearance insert, move the rip fence over the edge of the insert to hold it in place, set the blade angle at 14 , turn on the saw, and raise the blade through the insert. Shut off the saw, move the rip fence into its final position, and adjust the blade height to about IV2 . Make the bevel cuts on the top surface of the base (E) by keeping the rabbeted side of the hole against the fence. 5For...
To rough-out the mortise, clamp a fence on the drill press and adjust it so you're drilling exactly on the center of the stile. Drill a series of holes to rough out the length of the mortise, see Fig. 6. Then clean up the sides (cheeks) of the mortise with a sharp chisel. Now make the shoulder cut for the tenon by guiding the rail through the sawr blade with the miter gauge, see Pig. 8. Then
A frame saw cuts a Windsor chair seat blank from a pine plank. The blank will be shaped later with a variety of hand tools. It could also be cut on a band saw. A frame saw cuts a Windsor chair seat blank from a pine plank. The blank will be shaped later with a variety of hand tools. It could also be cut on a band saw.
By cutting a semicircle out of the side pieces, leaving two legs on each side, the stool will be more stable on uneven surfaces. Adjust a compass to a radius of 3 2 inches and mark a semicircle on one of the side pieces, placing the compass point at the bottom end of the sides midway between the edges. Cut the semicircle on your band saw (right), feeding the stock across the table with both hands. Then make the same cut on the other side piece. You can then smooth away the marks left by the saw blade on a spindle sander.
Referring to the anatomy illustration on page 38, make a template for the arms. Outline the shape on one arm blank, then flip the template over and outline the second arm this will ensure that the two are mirror images of each other. On each arm, also mark the mortise that will accept the tenon at the top end of the front leg. Cut the arms to shape on your band saw (right). Repeat the process to saw the rockers. Although the tenons at the ends of round parts of the chair like the legs, rails, stretchers, and slats can be done on the lathe (page 30), the tenons at the back end of the arms cannot be turned. Instead, install a dowel cutter on your drill press, tilt the machine table 90 and clamp the arm in place with the tenon-end centered under the cutter. Set the drilling depth at one-half the leg diameter then cut the tenon (left).
Reinforce the joints connecting the legs to the seat and the stretchers to the legs with wedges. Cut the kerfs for the wedges on your band saw. When you are kerfing the legs, hold the leg on the machine table with the stretcher hole facing straight up. This will ensure that the wedges in the legs are perpendicular to the grain of the seat, preventing the seat from splitting. Feed the workpiece into the blade, slicing a kerf to a depth of about lA inch (right). Cut the kerfs in the stretchers the same way, making sure that the wedges will be perpendicular to the grain of the legs.
To bring the top edge of the rails flush with the top end of the legs, you will have to notch the bottom edge of the recessed section of the rails (see the anatomy on page 58). Fit the rail upside down in the leg mortise and draw a pencil along the top of the leg to mark a cutting line across the rail. Cut the notch on your band saw, starting with straight cuts along the shoulders of the recess to the marked line. Remove the remaining waste by making a curved cut from the edge to one shoulder (above), then rotate the board 180 and saw along the cutting line. Once the notches in both rails are ready, saw the rails to shape as you did the feet (page 61) and sand the surfaces smooth.
Referring to the anatomy illustration (page 131), draw the decorative curve at the ends of the top rails on a piece of -inch plywood and cut out the profile on your band saw. Using the plywood piece as a template, transfer the curve onto each rail. Clamp the rail to a work surface with the end to be cut extending off the table, and cut the curve with a saber saw (left). Once all the rails have been shaped, sand the cut ends smooth and assemble the pieces with glue and screws as you did the lattice (page 134).
Start by preparing the handle rails for the top end rails and the handle. For the end rails, cut a -inch-deep, lVi-inch-wide dado across the inside face of each handle rail. For the handle, drill a 1-inch-diameter hole as deep as one-half the stock thickness. Next, outline the curve at the front end of the rail and cut it on your band saw (left). Use the rail to outline the curve on the second piece and repeat the cut. Smooth the cut surface with sandpaper or a spindle sander, then round over the outside edges with a router.
Enlarge the grid shown In the inset to produce a cutting pattern for shaping the profile of the top one square equals 2 inches. Trace the pattern onto a piece of Vi-inch plywood or hardboard and cut out the template on your band saw. Then set the top face-down on a work surface and extend the leaves. Mark a line down the middle of the top and position the template on it align the straight edge of the pattern with the centerline and the adjoining curved edge with the end of the top. Use a pencil to trace the curved profile on the top. Repeat at the remaining corners (above).
To make wedges for the kerfs, cut some hardwood pieces on the band saw slightly less than inch long and inch thick at the base, tapering to a point. Start by gluing the stretchers to the legs. Spread some adhesive on the wedges and in the kerfs as well as on the stretcher tenons and the mortises in the legs, and insert the wedges into their kerfs. Fit the stretcher and legs together, using a wooden mallet to tap the pieces into final position. You can leave the wedges protruding from the kerfs (inset) they will sit flush with the ends of the legs and stretchers when you tap the joints together. Next, glue the wedges into the legs, spread adhesive on the contacting surfaces between the legs and the seat, and tap the legs into position (left).
The bonnet will prove to be a more difficult undertaking. As the sides arc only S jb thick it w ill be easier to make the arch first and join the sides to it. Commence where the round columns stop. Band-saw a piece of 1 pine stock with an outside radius of 7 and an inside radius of Dovetail both ends of
Make a mahogany frame of stock which is J4 thick and iy wide. Cut some cross-grained w ood on the circuiar saw yi thick, 6 wide and 1 long, and glue it to the face of the frame, mitering the corners. 1 ake a piece of cardboard and mark it off in 2 tj squares. Copy the scroll for the top, sides and base of the frame and cut the outline. Use burl-grained wood f thick and dow el and glue it to the frame. The grain of the side pieces should run in the same direction as the top piece. When the glue is dry, place the card-board patterns on the wood and mark the outline. Take the frame to the band-saw and cut close to the lines. Smooth up the edges, round over the arrises of the frame and the project is ready for staining and finishing.
Cut the end boards on your band saw, leaving about Vs inch of waste along the cutting lines. Reclamp the workpiece and template to a work surface as in step 2, ensuring that the edge to be shaped extends off the table by a few inches. Install a top-piloted flush-trimming bit in your router, adjusting the cutting depth so the pilot bearing will be level with the template and the cutter will trim the entire edge of the stock. Starting at one end of the board, hold the router flat on the template and ease the bit into the stock until the bearing contacts the pattern. Then feed the tool steadily along the edge, moving against the direction of bit rotation and pressing the bearing against the template (right). Once you reach the end of the template, stop the cut. Turn the template over and clamp it to the other half of the end board, then repeat the trimming process. Smooth the edges of the stock with 120-grit sandpaper.
Shape the curved profiles of the head-and footboards with a router guided by templates. Make the templates from -inch plywood, tracing the contours of the boards' top edges, as illustrated on page 51, on the plywood. But instead of producing templates that span the full end boards, mark only one-half the patterns on the templates, from one end to the middle not only will the templates be easier to maneuver, but by using a single pattern to outline both halves of each board, you will ensure that they are symmetrical. Cut each pattern one-half as long as the end board, plus about 12 inches. On both sides of the template, mark one end of the end board, then the middle, and trace the curved pattern in between. Cut the pattern on your band saw, then smooth the cut edge, using a spindle sander (right) or a sanding block.
Referring to the anatomy illustration of the pigeonhole unit (page 108), outline the shape of the arches on a piece of -inch plywood, cut it out, and smooth the edges to fashion a template that you will use to make a routing jig (step 2). Before assembling the jig, use the template to outline six copies of the shape on your arch stock. Cut out the arches to within H inch of your cutting lines using the band saw. To keep the blade from binding in the kerfs, make a series of release cuts through the waste, stopping inch from the lines. Then saw along the waste side of the lines, feeding the work-piece with both hands (right). Make sure that neither hand is in line with the blade.
Once all the units are assembled, place one face up on a work surface, position the template on it, and use a pencil to trace its outline on the stock (right). The back edge of the template should be almost flush with the back edge of the rear leg at its top end. Mark the remaining units, then cut them all to rough size on the band saw (page 36), leaving about inch of waste outside your cutting lines.
Most of the parts of the chair are irregularly shaped. To reproduce the classic design illustrated below, refer to the cutting patterns shown opposite. Remember that the dimensions cited in the cutting list represent the stock size before shaping on the band saw. Size the parts first, then transfer the patterns to the stock.
l ake a sheet of cardboard and rule it off in 2 squares, and from the drawing reproduce the curves which form the outline of the feet. Allow Yn for the dovetails. Cut out the pattern, trace it on wood, having the grain run the longest way and band-saw the pieces. Now taper the legs and round over the upper sur-used to make the outline the same on 11 faces. A small thin piece of wood is glued sides. The top may be cat to shape on the to the base of each foot. To cut the band-saw. Smooth up the edges, arxd dovetails on the pedestal and locate the then with a sharp marking-gage score two feet proceed as follows Take a narrow l'nes around the edge. Remove the wood strip of paper equal in length to the cir-
The sunrise motif of the headboard featured in this chapter is a popular design, particularly in American Country furniture. Whatever design you choose, however, the primary challenge in making the end boards for a bed is cutting the pieces symmetrically. The boards are too unwieldy to do the job accurately on the band saw. You will be much better off shaping the boards with a router guided by templates, as shown starting on page 61.
Slide the drawer into its opening in the table and clamp the false front blank to the drawer front. Holding the drawer at its fully closed position, use a pencil to trace the profile of the top drawer rail onto the top edge of the blank (left). Cut the curve of the false front on the band saw as you did the end rail and glue veneer to the front face, if desired (page 36).
Due to difficult grain, it may help to put the curling iron closer to the tip of the cutting iron and close the mouth of the plane by moving the frog forward a little (a large mouth opening is for removing a lot of wood fast, while a smaller gap is required for difficult grain). Redraw the table edge using the trammel and then cut out on a band saw. Make up the other flap in the same way. 6 Smooth the edges of all three sections of the top to take out any small humps and hollows left by the band saw. Use a plane on the flat edges of the centre section and a large file or rasp on the curved section, holding the rasp diagonally across the edge and as flat as possible. Stop frequently to assess progress visually and ensure that you are not putting in extra hollows.
Use the holes you used to secure the template (page 39) as guides to bore clearance holes for the threaded rod. Start by clamping a plywood backup panel to your drill press table and install a ' -inch bit in the machine. Position the unit on the table so that one of the holes is aligned under the bit and hold the unit steady as you drill the hole (above). Fit your drill press with a 1 -inch-diameter hole saw to cut the spacers that separate the chair units. Make the spacers from two boards inch thick for the front spacers and inches thick for the rear ones. Hold the board on the machine table and cut through the stock, lowering the feed lever slowly (right). At the same time, the hole saw's pilot bit will bore a hole through the center of each spacer for the threaded rod.
Mark the dowel holes on the top edges of the drop-leaf supports, locating them about 4 inches to one side of the middle. Offsetting the dowels in this way will allow the longer end of the supports to rotate under the leaves. Install a 3 s-inch bit in your drill press and adjust the drilling depth to the dowel length about 2 inches. Then position the support on its side rail, clamp the assembly to the machine table with the marked point under the bit and, steadying the rail on edge with one hand, drill the hole (above). Repeat for the other side rail.
To ensure the clock will hang level, the peg hole must be centered between the edges of the backboard. Mark a drilling point on your centerline l7 s inches from the top of the arch, then bore the hole on your drill press. Install a 2-inch brad-point bit in the machine and clamp a backup panel to the table to help minimize tearout. Position your mark directly under the bit, clamp the backboard in place, and drill the hole (right).
Assemble the clock mechanism following the manufacturer's directions. For the model shown, position the dial on the backing board provided and outline the shaft hole on the board. Remove the dial and bore the shaft hole through the backing board on your drill press. Fix the dial to the backing board with epoxy, making sure the dial is centered between
Using two different bits on your drill press, bore a hole through each foot for the bolt that will attach it to the leg. The bolt will be threaded into a cross dowel to provide long-grain support (step 4). Start by drilling a hole to conceal a bolt head with a 1 -inch spade bit. Mark a line on the face of the foot 1 inches from the bottom edge to indicate the drilling depth. Holding the foot upside down on the machine table, use the line as a guide for setting the drilling depth, then bore the bolt-recessing hole (right). Then switch bits and bore a -inch-diam-eter clearance hole for the bolt through the foot.