After all of the webbing has been grooved, prepare the splining. If the opening is square in shape, use a separate piece of splining for each side. If it is circular, use one continuous spline. The chair shown here was square in shape but had rounded corners, so we used a continuous spline.
The splining should be well soaked in the glycerine-and-water solution. It should be a little narrower along its bottom edge than the groove after the webbing has been placed in it. If the splining you have is too wide, you can shave it with a wall-board knife. Use a new, sharp blade in the knife for this work.
Cut one end of the splining at an angle. If the seat is square, angle the cut of the splining for each side, cutting so that the back and front pieces will overlap the side pieces. If you use a continuous piece of spline, the overlap will take place at the center of the back rail of the chair.
Now run a bead of good glue (such as white carpenter's glue or liquid hide glue) in the groove over the webbing. The glue will be forced up and out of the groove as the spline is tapped into place, so don't put in too much now.
Place the narrow bottom of the spline in the groove and tap it into place. Using a wooden block as a pad. hold the block over the splining and tap the block with your hammer. Work from one point along the groove and keep moving, tapping the spline in as you go. The spline should go into the groove until it is flush with the surface of the webbing.
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