If you intend to use a water stain, you can expect the stain to cause a slight swelling in the wood. This w ill raise the grain and create a rough surface. But sincc you will have applied the stain, you won't want to do much sanding. One way professionals alleviate this problem is to raise the grain
Wipe the marble clean occasionally to see how you are progressing The process may lake half an To raise the grain of an open-faced wood delib-hour or more, depending on the depths of the pits and scratches. When the marble is smooth and erately, first apply water, as shown here. The beauliful wash off all the white paste, allow the stone to dry. and apply a good marble polish ra'sed grain is then sanded smooth.
deliberately and sand again before applying the water stain. Note that this problem arises only with the use of water stains, not with others.
To raise the grain, spray the sanded piece with enough water to soak the surface, Allow the piece to dry. During the drying period, the grain will raise. Resand the piece to knock down the raised grain. Later, when you apply the water stain, the grain will raise only slightly and cause few problems.
Sanding Softer Woods A curious thing happens when you sand softer woods. The surface becomes smooth and then begins to fuzz. This fuzz will interfere with the stain later on. To avoid this, sand the fuzz off by first spraying or brushing on a thin coat of sanding sealer. The sanding sealers you buy are a type of lacquer. You can make your own by using a thin shellac. Whichever type used, the sealer stiffens the fuzz, which can then be sanded away. This method produces a very smooth surface. It also may seal the pores of the w ood (which you do not w ant) if you apply too heavy a coat.
If you intend to use a penetrating stain, this sealing might cause uneven penetration, depending on how much filling it creates. If, however, you intend to use a surface stain, this creates no problems, and in fact makes a good base for the stain.
HOW AND WHEN To get a very TO USE WOOD smooth finish on FILLERS furniture, the sur face wood must be very smooth. Because this isn't possible on open-grained woods such as oak and chestnut, furniture makers for ccnturies, have used fillers on these woods. The purpose of the filler is to fill the little craters and valleys on the surface, leveling it completely before the final finish coat is applied. Fillers are not used on woods with naturally smooth surfaces.
In rccent years, furniture buyers have begun to appreciate the natural look in furniture. Thus when they buy oak or chestnut furniture, they no longer cxpect it to be smooth. They want to see the rough grain. In your restoration work, if the piece you arc working on is made of an open-grained wood, you have a choice. You can use filler and produce a finai finish that is smooth and glossy — which it probably was in the first place —or you can skip the filler and give it a natural finish by applying only stain and the final finish. If you choose to Oil the surface, there are two ways to apply the filler.
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