Sanding Problems

Too many people aren't willing to take the time to sand properly. The result is a Final surface that is rough and without that professional look. No doubt about it, when you must sand 15 or 20 pieccs in a kit, the work is boring, and there is always the temptation to quit before the job is done. However, if you are assembling a kit. you must read the instructions carefully and follow those for sanding exactly These instructions will have been tailored for the type of wood used in the piece. *

The sandpapers and sanding instructions supplied with the kits we have seen were aimed at just the right amount of final sanding—neither too much or too little—with the correct grades of paper. Follow the instructions that come with your kit.

Too Much Sanding As we pointed out in Chapter 4. it is possible to sand too much. If you start with a medium grit paper on hardwood and work your way to a very fine paper, you can actually polish the surface of the wood to a point that it will not accept stain readily. To avoid this, don't sand raw hardwood with papers over 300 grit unless you intend to finish a piece naturally, with no stain or varnish. Over-sanding on softwoods such as pine and redwood produces a surface fuzz that will interfere with the application of the final finishing material.

General Procedures As a general rule, begin with a 220-grit paper, and do final sanding with a 280-grit. If you must sand parts like tenons to make them fit. use a coarser paper (around 150-grit) to remove material faster, then finish with finer grades. Don't use a grade finer than

300 grit for finish sanding; save grades from 300 to 600 for sanding between coats and for the last handrub sanding.

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