Other Drawer Problems

If the drawer seems balky and refuses to slide in and out easily, look for any of these problems.

  1. The sliding area on the bottom of the drawer may simply need lubrication. Spray it and the frame on which it rides with silicone lubricant.
  2. The sides of the drawer may have swollen due to moisture absorption. Suspect this especially if the piece has been stored in a damp area. Try baking a small drawer in a warm — not hot — oven (about 120 degrees for half an hour) to get rid of the moisture. For drawers too big to go in the oven, use a heat lamp trained directly on swollen parts. The moisture may have caused swelling, which doesn't go down when the water has evaporated, in that case, sand the bottom edges and lower sides to remove the swollen wood.
  3. The sliding area may be worn from overuse. Probably the best way to mend this is to make new sides, but since this seems like a lot of unnecessary work, you can try to rebuild the sliding area. To rebuild, glue a thin strip of veneer along the bottom edge, and then sand the strip thoroughly after the glue has dried. The typical veneer, after sanding, will add only about 'As of an inch to the bott&m. If this isn't enough, add another layer.
If you cut the sides of the dovetails with a back-saw, clamp the work securely in a vise. Pad sides lor protection from the ¡aws.

The more familiar you are with (he names of parts of furniture, the more easily you will understand repair discussions. Regardless of style, the terminology is universal.

Drive the wedge in fa' enough to expand the size of the rung end, but not so far as to split the wood Then cut off the part ol the wedge (hat projects beyond the rung end.

You can wrap the dowel of a loose rung with string to increase its size. This works well when you can't take the rung out of the chair to saw t II the rung size needs to be :ncreased only a little, use thread instead of siring. To finish, coat the thread or string wilh glue.

After making the saw cut, whittle a small wedge from hardwood. Tap it down into the cut. as shown Coat with giue before insertion

Another answer to ends of rungs that do not fit snugly into their holes is to saw cut into the middle of the end of the rung. Then you can insert a wedge into the end.

rails made so that they are self-doweling. That is, each end of the piece is inserted into a hole and glued there, like a dowel. When these break, repair varies according to how the break took place.

Another answer to ends of rungs that do not fit snugly into their holes is to saw cut into the middle of the end of the rung. Then you can insert a wedge into the end.

After making the saw cut, whittle a small wedge from hardwood. Tap it down into the cut. as shown Coat with giue before insertion

Drive the wedge in fa' enough to expand the size of the rung end, but not so far as to split the wood Then cut off the part ol the wedge (hat projects beyond the rung end.

HOW TO REPAIR The rung on a DOWELED chair, doweled

CHAIR RUNGS into the front and back legs, may have dried out and shrunk, or been loose for a long time and become worn. You can't just reglue it, because glue alone won't make the joint tight. One way to mend it is to wrap string lightly around the dowel to increase its diameter, then coat the wrapping with glue and reinsert the dowel. However, we don't like this method.

A betler technique calls for you to cut a slot down the center of the doweled end.

Use a hacksaw and clamp the rung in a vise while you saw. Drive a small wedge of hardwood down into the saw cut, forcing the dowel end to expand slightly until it fits snugly into the hole. Fit the new end into the hole before applying any glue to be sure of the lit. Cut the wedge off flush with the end of the dowel, apply glue, and tap the now-expanded dowel into the hole.

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