Carcass

To simplify the construction nearly all the carcass pieces are joined using dowels (see Figs 9.5 and 9.6; see also page 19).

1 Start by cutting the four legs (A) to the correct length, from planed 2 x 2in (50 x 50mm) pine. Cut out the deep back rail (B), the deep side rail (D) and the shallow side rail (C) and, using a jig, make dowelled joints to fit these to the legs. Cut out the long (front) and short (side) top rails (G and E) and form dowelled joints on the ends of these also. Where these two rails fit into the leg, the dowels are shorter on the inside of the rails - if they were the normal length, they would meet in the middle of the leg.

2 Assemble and glue the two sides (C and E) with the legs. When these are dry, join the two sides with the long rails (B and G) to make a square carcass. Check the diagonals to ensure that the assembly is square. In order to keep the legs the correct distance apart at the lower ends while clamping, cut pj.eces of scrap wood to length and place between them temporarily.

3 Now make the two sub-frames that fit below and immediately above the drawer. For both, cut the parts to size and make the dowelled joints, but do not cut the notches that fit around the legs in parts L and N at this stage. Glue, assemble and clamp the frame pieces together. Ensure that they are square by measuring the diagonals. Form part F and cut the notch in the corner, before gluing and screwing into place against part B. To size the corner notch accurately, use the leg as a template by holding F against it and marking the size of the notch. Part F serves as the top runner of the extension slider, as

YZZZ.

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Section XX (see Fig 9.3)

2in (51mm)

28in (711mm)

Right-hand end

FIG 9.4

Side views and section with dimensions.

87/sin (226mm)

Left-hand end does piece h, which should now be cut and screwed into place.

4 Cut out parts I, which are two narrow strips of wood that act as spacing pieces to ensure that the gap for the slider to fit into is correct and to constrain the sides of the slider when it is in use.

Turn the carcass upside down and glue and pin parts I into place on the undersides of parts F and G. Hold the two sub-frames made earlier in place and mark the corner notches into which the legs are fitted. Cut out these notches and drill holes in the rails for the screws.

FIG 9.5

Carcass construction.

FIG 9.5

Carcass construction.

FIG 9.6

Using a pencil sharpener to put a point on the dowels.

5 With the carcass still inverted, glue the frame that fits immediately above the drawer and fit it into place against parts I with screws and glue. Fix the final sub-frame that goes under the drawer into place next. This is positioned so that it lines up with the lower edge of parts d and C, which will leave an opening 5in (127mm) deep for the front of the drawer.

Middle frame under slider and above drawer

FIG 9.7

Sub-frames for drawer housing.

Lower frame under drawer

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Top frame above slider

Fixes underneath

Top frame above slider

Fixes underneath

Middle frame below slider and above drawer

FIG 9.8

Sub-frames construction.

FIG 9.10

Slatted shelf construction, plus end and side views with dimensions.

FIG 9.9

Fitting the corner braces.

SLATTED SHELVES

The construction of the two shelves built into the lower half of the trolley is exactly the same for both.

FIG 9.11

Fitting one of the slatted shelves.

2 Glue and pin the slats on to the frame and punch the heads of the pins below the surface of the wood. To cover these, fill the punch holes with a mixture of glue and wood dust and, when the filler is dry, glasspaper the surface smooth.

3 Where the ends of the slats project slighdy beyond the ends of the frame, plane them flush to the frame ends with a block plane. When both shelves have been made, fit them into the carcass with a screw at each corner (see Fig 9.11).

6 Because the area that the drawer fits into is wider than the drawer, you will now need to cut two side rubbing strips (Q) and screw them on to the insides of pieces C and D. These will stop the drawer moving from side to side and hold it straight.

FIG 9.10

Slatted shelf construction, plus end and side views with dimensions.

FIG 9.9

Fitting the corner braces.

SLATTED SHELVES

The construction of the two shelves built into the lower half of the trolley is exactly the same for both.

7 To brace the top of the carcass and provide a means of fixing the block top, make four corner braces (R) and screw them into place (see Fig 9.9). Make holes in these for the screws that will eventually be used to hold the top.

1 The joints on the corners of the frame that support the slats are bare-faced housings (see page 16), although dowels would be equally suitable. Glue and clamp the frames, ensuring that they are square. To make the slats, use planed stock such as cladding and cut into pieces 1 V2in (38mm) wide. Using a jack plane and glasspaper, round off the top edges and cut the pieces to length so that they are slightly longer than the frame.

2in (51mm)

FIG 9.11

Fitting one of the slatted shelves.

Side view

End view

Z5"

14%sin (375mm)

14%sin (375mm)

FIG 9.12

Drawer construction and plans with dimensions.

+1 0

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