1 Cut all the carcass pieces to size and join the corners with box joints (see page 17). To save time, and to help with the accuracy of the finished joint, make a plywood template from which to mark out the joints.

(While the boards are lying around between joints being cut, store them flat with a few weights on top to ensure that they do not bend or warp. Once jointed and glued this will not happen, but it helps if they are stored flat beforehand.)

FIG 17.6

Carcass construction.

2 Rebate the back inside edges of the four sides of the carcass to a depth of 3/sin (9mm) with a router, to house the back. These are stopped rebates on the top and base, and through rebates on the two sides. Cut a housing joint in each side to accommodate the shelf (see page 20).

3 Glue and clamp the carcass and check it for squareness, then clean up the outside of the carcass with a plane. Cut the shelf to size and cut out the notches from the front edge. Glue the shelf into place in the carcass.

4 The back could be made from pine or plywood. Here, 3/8in (9mm) thick pine cladding was chosen. Cut the planks to the correct length, fit them into the back, and secure with pins and glue. They are fixed using a technique of 'secret' nailing, where the pins are put into the tongue part of the boards as the boards are put into place one at a time. The head of the pin is concealed in the tongue when the groove of the next plank to be placed into position is pushed over the tongue that contains the pin (see Fig 17.7).

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