Materials List


  1. Front legs (2)
  2. Back legs (2)
  3. Arms|2)
  4. Side rails (2)
  5. Stretchers (2|
  6. Front rail
  7. Back rails (2) H. Back slats (7)
  8. Seat slats (5) K. Pegs (50)

1W x 2 V x 25 W 1W x 37/>" x 33V 1V x 2 V x 22" 1Vx2Vx17" 1 Vx 1 Vx 17" 1Vx3Vx46" 1V x 2 V x 46" »4"x3"x14V 1"x2Vx47" V dia. x 1 V


»10x2" Flathead wood screws (20)

Cut the parts to size. Choose a good hard 3 wcx)d (noi necessarily a hardwood) for this bench. The mortisc-andtcnon joints will not hold up in soft wood. Mahogany is a good choice; Atlantic white cedar (juniper) is a good softwood to use. since this it is harder than most. Cedar and redwood will not work well; these woods are too soft.

For the legs, stretchers, and other frame parts, you'll need to purchase 18-20 board feet of wood sawn "eight-quarters" (2" thick), and have it planed down. In some lumberyards, particularly those that do custom sawing, you may be able to get lumber cut seven-quarters thick. If you can find it. buy it There will be less waste when the wood is planed down to 1W.

For the seat and back slats, buy 10-12 board feet of wood sawn five-quarters. Have two-thirds of this wood planed down to 1" thick, and the other third planed down to W thick.

Note: Don't take our estimates of board feet too literally. Most lumberyards sell their hardwtxxls in random lengths and widths. Depending on the wood selected, our estimates may be too little or too much. When you purchase the lumber, choose the boards yourself and give some careful thought as to what parts you will cut from each board. This way, you can cut down on the waste. T7k> smart woodworker buys bis lumber by t/x> board, not the boardfoot.

Tfc Y THi5 When you purchase your wood, take these plans with you and have the people at the yard figure your needs. Most of the better lumberyards provide this service free of charge.

When you've gathered all the materials you need, and have planed them down to the proper thicknesses, cut the parts to the sizes shown in the Materials List. Cut the Stock for the back legs 1 "-2" long, so that there's plenty of room to cut out the shapes.

/ Make a template for the side frame

Lm assemblies. Draw up the SUiv View full size. You don't have to put all the measurements on it, but you will need the dotted lines. Use this lull-scale plan to mark the shapes of the back legs. arms, and side rails. This can be done in one of two ways. You can photocopy the full-size plans, and use the copies to make cardboard or hard-hoard templates. Or you can transfer the shapes of the parts directly to the wood, using carbon paper. (Sec Figure 1.)

Once you've marked the shapes of the individual pieces, tape or glue the full-size plans to a piece of ply-wtxxl. This will serve as a template — something for you to compare your work to as it progresses — to make sure that you get each part properly shaped and both side frame assemblies exactly the same.

Note: If you're an experienced woodworker, you may wish to omit this step. However, beginners and woodworkers who have limited experience fitting angled mortise and tenon joints, will find that a template helps to ensure accuracy.

1 /Once you 've made a full size drawing of the Side View, you can use carbon paper to transfer the shapes of the parts to the wood.

1 /Once you 've made a full size drawing of the Side View, you can use carbon paper to transfer the shapes of the parts to the wood.

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_ 1



Cut the shapes of the back legs. Using a band saw or sabre saw, cut out the back legs, then sand away the saw marks. Do not cut the shapes of the other parts at this lime. Normally, it is much easier to make the joinery in a board before you cut an irregular shape. However, the back legs are one exception to this rule. The shapes must be cut before the joinery.

TRYTHtfl To shape the back legs precisely, cut a little wide of the marks, then sand up to them.

—I ZVt


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