Materials List


  1. Duck boards (11) x 2W x 48"
  2. Spacers (46) HP x 2 V x 2V»"
  3. Legs (8) Vx2Wx16"
  4. Feet (4) Vx2Vx15V
  5. Foot blocks (4) 2VV x 2Vi" x 5V4"
  6. Seat dowels (4) 1 - dia. x 15 V Q. Foot dowels (2) 1" dia. x 5%"



8d Galvanized finishing nails (% lb.)


8d Galvanized finishing nails (% lb.)



Adjust the design to your own needs.

I Dccidc what sort of outdoor furniture you'd like to make with these duck boards. Here's a chart to help show you some of the possibilities:

Length Width


Possible Uses




Footrest, step-stool, seat

ing for children




Seating for adults




Coffee table, table for





Table for adults

Cut the parts to sixe. Cut ail the dimension L lumber to si/e first. Don't cut the dowels to length until you have made the other parts. The reason for this is that dimension lumber (which is what you get when you buy softwood at a lumberyard or building center) is not always precisely milled. The boards you buy may be a little thicker than On most projects, this wouldn't make any difference. But on this one, when you stack up so many layers of stock, even a little variance in the thickness can add up to a big mistake in the finished project. Cut the dowels only after you've cut the other pieces, stacked them up, and measured the stack. Then cut the dowels W-W longer than what you think you'll need. You can cut off the extra length later, alter you assemble the project.

Since so many of these parts are identical, use a simple mass production technique when cutting them to length. Attach a stop block to the backstop of your radial arm saw or the rip fence of your table saw. and use Uiis to gauge the length of the pieces as you cut them. That saves a lot of measuring. (See Figure 1.)

1 When you use a stop block on a table saw position the block forward of the blade You can use it to gauge the length of a cut. but it shouldnl be in actual contact with the wood when you 're cutting. If it is, the wood will bind and kick back. (Saw guard removed for clarity.)

Drill holes for the do wets. Drill 1" dia-;; meter holes in the duck boards, spacers, and legs, for the dowel. Be very carcful when you measure the positions for these holes — they must Ik* placed accurately, or the project will be difficult to assemble. Use stop blocks on your drill press to help position the holes accurately. (See Figure 2.)

2/Clamp a fence and a stop block to your drill press to make a "fig "to help position the holes m the legs and spacers accurately.





4 Assemble the duck boards, legs, dowels, and spacers. Ik-gin to stack the parts, as shown in the Exploded View. Put a little dab of waterproof glue in between each of the parts as you stack them. This won't be enough to keep the project together, but it will prevent the spacers from turning on the dowels after the project is assembled.

When you fit the legs in place, make sure that they're square to the duck boards. Nail them to the assembly with galvanized finishing nails. (See Figure 3.) This will keep the legs from pivoting on the dowels.

When you've finished assembling these parts, clamp the duck boards together with bar clamps. Squeeze them together tightly, but not too lightly. Drive galvanized finishing nails through the edge of the outside duck boards, and into the dowels. (See Figure 4.) These nails will serve as "keepers," locking the boards together on the dowels.

TRY THt51 To hide the nails, drive them from the underside of the duck boards.

3'As you assemble the project, nail the legs to the duck boards. This will hold them square to the seat and prevent them from ptvoting on the dowels.

3'As you assemble the project, nail the legs to the duck boards. This will hold them square to the seat and prevent them from ptvoting on the dowels.

4/After assembling the seat and logs, drive nails through the outside duck boards and into the dowels. This wHI keep the assembly together

Attach the feet and foot blocks. Cut

V and sand the foot dowels flush with the legs. Test fit the feet and fool blocks to the legs, and mark them for position. If the duck board stock is thicker than y<T, the blocks may have to be shortened slightly. When you're satisfied the parts will fit properly, cut chamfers in the upper outside corners of the feet and foot blocks.

Nail the feet to the legs and spacers first. Be sure to keep the feet square to the legs, and parallel to the seat. Ill en nail the foot blocks in place, between the feet.

1KY TH/5 / As you're doing some of this nailing, you'll find that a small anvil or "nailing block" comes in handy. Hold the anvil on the opposite side of the feet from the nails, and it will prevent the boards from giving when you pound with a hammer.

Chamfer the edges and finish the flat, and finish sand any other parts that need it. If you

W project. Rout or plane a small chamfer on all wish to apply a finish to the bench, use a paint sprayer, the outside edges and corners of the completed duck You'll find it almost impossible to get a brush between board table or bench. Sand the top of the bench perfectly the duck boards.

-m rocking sung chair

Rocking Sling Chair

I Mere's an unusual outdoor sling chair. It rocks! It doesn't rock In the same way that a rocking chair rocks, tipping back and forth. But this chair produces a very similar motion, because of the unusual way the legs are joined by the tie bars, All of the joints pivot, so that the legs — and the chair — move. These pivoting joints also make it possible for you to fold the rocking sling chair into a neat, flat package for storage.

The chair is quick and easy to build, too. The frame work is nothing more Uian a few sticks with holes in them. These sticks are held together with machine bolts, flat washers, and stop nuts. The flat washers keep the sticks from rubbing so the chair will "rock" smoothly. The stop nuts keep the pivot joints from loosening. ®



  1. Front legs (2)
  2. Back legs (2)
  3. Struts (4)
  4. Front stretcher
  5. Back stretcher
  6. Front hanger
  7. Back hanger

VX1VX33" VxlVx48" VxlVx 18" VxlVx21" x 1 ®A" x 24"


VX1VX33" VxlVx48" VxlVx 18" VxlVx21" x 1 ®A" x 24"



  • quot; x 2" Flathead machine bolts (8) %" Flat washers (16| '/«" Stop nuts (4)
  • 10x1 V«" Flathead wood screws (16| Heavy canvas (2 yards)

Select the wood. This is an easy project to * make, but it must be made from bardiiKxxi, such as mahogany or oak. Not only that, but the hardwood must Ik- clear and free from defects. The individual pieces of the chair are fairly narrow and thin, so the w(xxl has got to be strong in order for the completed project to hold out.

To make this chair, you'll need 4-5 board feet of hardwood, planed to V*" thick. Do not take this estimate too literally; the actual amount will depend on the widths and lengths available to you. It's always best to buy at least 10% more stock than you think you need. For a small project, like this, you may want 20% more.

Cut the pieces to size. Rip and cut the jointing narrow stock, always use a push stick or a push Lmm parts to the sizes shown in the Materials List. Joint block to guide the board across the jointer. This will keep the boards to remove the saw marks. Caution: When your fingers clear of the jointer knives.




Drill the holes for the machine bolts.

\ ' Drill Vi" holes In the legs and struts for the machine bolts, where shown in the drawings of the legs and struts. These parts are paired — right and left — and it's important that the pairs all be drilled precisely the same. To do this, stack the pairs up, right on top of left. Tape the stacks together so that they won't shift and "pad drill" the pairs of legs and struts. (Sec Figure 1.)

After you've drilled the holes, countersink them so that the heads of the machine bolts will be flush widi the surface of the wood. Refer to the Front View to figure out which end of the holes to countersink. As you can see, with two exceptions, the heads of the bolts all face inuKirtl The only lx>lts whose heads face outward are a pair of bolts in the back ends of the upper stretcher. It's

1/To make sure that the right and left pairs of legs and struts are drilled precisely the same, stack them up and "pad dnU" them -that is, drill both parts at once If they aren 't drilled the same, the pivot pints may bmd when you try to fold the chair.

important diat the bolts be facing the right direction. If they aren't, the stop nuts will prevent the completed chair from folding.



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4 Cut the rabbets in the ends of the stretchers and hangers. Mount a dado cutter in your table saw or radial arm saw. and cut */<"• wide. V«"-decp rabbets in both ends of the stretchers and the hangers. Use a stop bloek to help gauge the width of the rabbets and to make them all the same. ( See Figure 2.)


2 Use a stop Mock to cut the rabbets m the ends ot the hangers and stretchers precisely the same

2 Use a stop Mock to cut the rabbets m the ends ot the hangers and stretchers precisely the same

Sand and finish the parts. Sand the parts sible to finish the completed chair because the cloth seat

V/ smooth and round all the corners and edges. If fits over some of the wooden parts, you're going to apply a finish, do it at this time. It's impos-

Sew the sling. Make the sling seat from heavy canvas duck. If you can't sew, have someone do it for you. The sewing required is very simple. As shown in the Siing Seat Layout, the seat is 45" long with 4Vi" long loops at both ends. The only sewing required is a single seam along both sides and a double seam at both loops.





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