Materials List

EXPLODED VIEW

PARTS

A.

Sides (2)

1Vj"X3V2"X68"

B.

End

1Wx3ttfx21W

C.

Brace

1W X 3 W x 23"

D.

Long legs (2)

1 Wx3VTx14W

E.

Shod legs (2)

IVi" x 3V x 13"

F.

Long stretchers (2)

1Wx1Wx57-

Q.

Short

stretchers (2)

1 x 1W x 23"

H.

Back supports (2) 1V x 23A" x 30V

J.

Back stretcher

1Wx2Vx 18%"

K.

Back braces (2)

1%*x2Vx 14 V«"

L.

Back adjusting rod

1"dia.x21%"

M.

Axle

1"diax30"

N.

Wheels (2)

T dia. x 1 Vi"

P.

Axle pegs (2)

dia. x 2Vj"

Q.

Slats (11)

x 5'/a" x 21W

R.

Narrow seat slat

%"x2"x21ft"

S.

Narrow back slat

V x 3W Carnage bolls with washers (4)

#14x2" Flathead wood screws (8) «14x3" Flathead wood screws (20) 1" Flat washers |4) 12d Nails (4) 8d Finishing nails ('A lb.)

Cut all the parts to size. To make this chaise * lounge, you'll need four 2 x 4s. 8' long; one 2 x 8.8' long, three I x 6s, 12' long; and two I" dowels, 4' long. Most of the frame parts can be cut from the 2 x 4s. Cut the wheel stock and the parts for the back frame assembly (supports, stretcher, and braces) from the 2x8. Cut the axle 1 "-2" longer than shown, so that you can trim it to fit when the time comes. Don't cut the slats yet; wait until alter you've assembled the frame.

Important note: ()rdinarv construction or "dimension" lumber is not milled to exacting specifications, and often times parts have to be custom fitted, no matter what it says in the Materials list. Iliis is the reason we've asked you to hold off on cutting the slats.

Cut the long rabbets in the sides and Lm end. Cut a rabbet Vi" deep and V<" wide along the inside top edges of the sides and the end. Cut this joint on your table saw. making two passes over the blade. Adjust the blade and the rip fence, and make the first cut in the face of the stock. (See Figure I.) Ilirn the board on its edge, and make the second cut. (See Figure 2.)

When cutting a rabbet in this manner, be careful of two things. First of all, use push sticks and fcathcrboards to help keep your hands clear of the saw blade. This is especially important, since you have to remove the saw guard to make these cuts. Secondly, set up your saw so that you can make the second pass without leaving the waste in between the saw and the fence. If you make this mistake, the waste will kick back.

1/Make the rabbets in the sides and end in two cuts. First, cut the face ofthestock...

1/Make the rabbets in the sides and end in two cuts. First, cut the face ofthestock...

2 Then cut the edge. On the second cut, be careful not to leave the waste in between the saw btade and the npfenco.lfyoudo.it will kick back.

Cut the frame joinery in the legs, sides, and back supports. Mount a dado cutter on your table saw or radial arm saw and adjust the height to cut halfway through the thickness of a standard 2 x 4, or y<" deep. Carefully mark the dadoes and end rabbets in the legs, sides, and back supports. Cut each joint, making several passes over the cutter to remove all the waste. Remember that the sides should be mirror images of each other.

FRAME JOINERY

rSQIABG LOUNOfi

5'Then clean up the edges of the notch with a chisel

4'To make each notch, dnll a series of r holes.*' deep

4 Make the back stop notches in the sides, This chaise is designed so that you can adjust the back to four different positions. To do this, the hack adjusting rod can be moved to one of four different stops or notches cut in each side. ( See Figure 3.) To make these notches, first lay them out on the sides. Then drill a series of 1 " diameter holes, V<" deep, to rough out each notch. (See Figure 4.) Clean up the edges of the notches with a chisel. (See Figure 5.)

As shown in the working drawings, the notches are I" wide. Since most commercially milled 1 "-diameter dowels are actually a little less than 1" in diameter, the back adjusting rod should Fit in each notch with a little slop At least, that's the theory. In building the chaise, we found that the practice was another matter. Most of the notches needed to be enlarged slightly.

Note, loo, that the end notches are curved slightly. When the back adjusting rod fits into these notches, the back lays flat. Because the back braces and the rod arc-folded up into the back frame, the path of the rod as it drops into place is a large arc. This arc is so large that you

3 The four notches In (he ends of the sides allow you to adjust the back to lour different positions (One notch is hidden behind the brace !

5'Then clean up the edges of the notch with a chisel

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