Assemble the trellis frame. Lay the
V/ stiles on a flat surface with the grooves facing each other. Put the lattice in between, and fit the lattice into the grcK)vcs in each stile.
Slide the rails in place. The tenons should fit in the grooves of the stiles, and the top and bottom edges of the lattice should fit in the grooves in the rails.
Make sure that all the parts arc positioned properly, and that the rails and stiles are square to each other. Secure the trellis frame with bar clamps, drill the pilot holes, and drive 2Vi" long screws through the stiles and into the tenons on the rails. Then remove the clamps.
Attach the trellis frame to the planter box. Have a helper hold the frame upright while you position the planter box under it. Make sure the frame is plumb in relation to the box, and the stiles are centered on the end panels. Then clamp the frame to the box with C-clamps or w<xxl clamps. Fasten the trellis frame to the planter box with 1 •%" long w<xxl screws, and remove the clamps.
Secure the planter to the deck or the / ground. As we mentioned earlier in this chapter, you may want to attach the completed planter/partition to your deck or stake it to the ground to prevent the wind from blowing it over. This does not have to impair the portability of the project; you can secure the planter/partition in such a way that you can still easily detach it from the deck or the ground and move it around.
To secure the planter to the ground, use 18" lengths of *4 concrete reinforcing rod, or "rebar." Buy the type that has a small bend at one end, or have the building supply store put bends in them for you. Drill two W' holes in the bottom planks near each end. Arrange the planter where you want it in your yard, lay the bottom planks in place; then drive the rebar down through the bottom planks and into the ground. (See Figure 4.)
To secure the planter/partition to your deck, use lA" x 4" carriage bolts. (In some cases, you may need longer or shorter bolts. It's best to measure the thickness of your deck before you buy them.) Drill '/< "-diameter holes through the center of two small scraps of wood. Place the planter/partitions where you want them on your deck, and lay the bottom planks in place. Drill two % "diameter holes in the bottom planks, near each end of the planter box. These holes should be located over a crack between decking boards. Insert the carriage bolts in the holes in the bottom planks, and down through the deck. I 'nder the deck, put the scraps of wood over the bolts, then secure them with flat washers and nuts. (See Figure 5.)
If you can't get under your deck, or you have a concrete patio, you'll have to try other methods. For a wooden deck that is low to the ground, attach the planter/partition to the deck boards with lag screws. For concrete, use lag screws with expandable lead shields. Both of these methods attach the planters solidly, but they are somewhat more permanent than rebar spikes or carriage bolts.
4 tt you place the planter partition in your yard, stake rt to the ground with rebar
5 It you place the planter partition on your deck, hold it In place with carnage bolts. Otherwse. the w>nd may blow it over.
TRY THl*>! There are two things you can do to make the planter/partitions more stable In a stiff breeze without staking or bolting them down. The first is to make the planter boxes wider, so that they hold more pots. This adds weight and surface area to the base. However, it also takes up more patio space.
To make the planter/partitions more stable without increasing their size, hinge the planter boxes together with 3' strap hinges. Then arrange the planter/partitions in a zig-zag or staggered line. The hinges and the arrangement help to make the entire assembly harder to tip over.
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