You can use the jig shown at right to cut tenons on the table saw. Adapt the dimensions suggested in the illustration to customize the jig for your saw, if necessary.
Cut the jig fence and back from 3/i-inch plywood and saw a 45° bevel at one end of each board; the pieces should be wider than the height of your saw's rip fence. Fasten two pieces together face to face to fashion the back, then use countersunk screws to attach the fence and back in an L shape. Make sure the fasteners will not be in the blade's path when you use the jig. Next, cut the brace from solid stock, bevel its ends, and attach it flush with the top edges of the fence and back, forming a triangle. Make the clamp by face gluing two pieces of %-inch plywood and cutting the assembly into the shape shown. Use a hanger bolt, washer, and wing nut to attach the clamp to the jig back, leaving a gap between the edge of the clamp and the fence equal to the thickness of the stock you will use. Offset the bolt so the clamp can pivot eccentrically. (You can drill additional holes in the jig back so you can shift the clamp to accommodate different stock thicknesses.) Next, cut the runner from solid wood. When attached to the jig fence, the runner will straddle the saw fence, eliminating any wobble. For some models, you will have to mill a groove down the length of the runner, as shown, to fit the rip fence. Finally, cut a piece of clear plastic as a blade guard and screw it to the jig back flush with its front face.
To use the jig, set it on the saw table in front of the blade with the runner and fence straddling the rip fence. Clamp the workpiece in the jig and position the rip fence to align the cutting mark on the workpiece with the blade. Feed the jig into the cutting edge. (Your first use of the jig will produce a kerf in the back.) Flip the workpiece around and repeat to cut the other cheek (below). Remove the jig to cut the shoulders.
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