Working Mouldings

Some form of spindle-moulder/-shaper or highspeed router is almost indispensable in any trade workshop, but where such facilities do not exist or the length of moulding required hardly justifies grinding a cutter blank and setting up a machine, then hand methods must be used. Very few craftsmen now own a set of moulding-planes, nor are they freely obtainable, while the scratch stock is hardly suitable for deep mouldings. In working the moulding shown in 309:1 much of the rough work can be done by making a succession of saw cuts (309:2) and then planing off to the dotted line; or working a series of grooves (309:3) in the order stated, as a firm shoulder must be left for the plough-plane fence. If the capacity of the plane allows it additional grooves can be worked, but the number shown will probably be the limit, and here again the waste is planed off as in 309:2.

311 Sanding edge with shaped rubbing block
312 Moulding flutes to drawer front
313 Moulded details

314 Lippings/edgings

Final shaping will have to be done with bullnose rabbet- or shoulder-plane, chisel or scraper, and the hollow (309:2A) worked with a gouge or scraper ground to a suitable curve, shown in 310, while it will pay to make shaped rubbers out of pine blocks for final sanding (311). If a spindle-moulder is used it will be more usual to form the moulding in two sections (309:4), thus avoiding heavy cuts.

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