Hitherto bought wooden handles were invariably clumsy and in stained common woods, but ornamental knobs and pulls in palisander, teak, walnut, mahogany, etc. are now obtainable, or they can be very easily turned on a suitable lathe. Kingwood is beautiful for turned knobs, if it can be obtained, but ebony, rosewood, satinwood, Indian laurel, walnut and box are all excellent. Sycamore can also be used, but care must be taken and the knobs gloss polished on the lathe immediately after the final sanding or the end grain (all
276 Wood handles
277 Metal handles knobs are turned out of long-grain stuff) will take on a grubby appearance.
Representative examples are illustrated in 276:1, 2 and 3, while 276:4, 5 are hand turned. Methods of fastening are shown in 276:6 where a pilot hole is drilled for the screw, and the short stub dowel inset into the drawer front prevents the knob splitting as the screw is driven home; while in 276:7 the dowel-pin is taken through the thickness of the drawer front, saw kerfed and wedged from the back. Large wooden knobs can have the dowel or spigot threaded with tap and die as in much Victorian furniture, but the methods already described can be as effective. Figures 276:8, 9 are wood pulls worked in the length and cut off as required; they are screwed from the back. Figures 276:10, 11 are typical sliding flush door pulls, the former routered out, but the latter can be turned in a lathe, while 276:12 is an oblong routered version. Recessed cabinet handles for door and drawer fronts are shown in 276:13-16, while a simple method of forming a grip recess to a drawer front is shown in 276:17, 18. Overlapping holes are bored at an angle, cleaned up with file and abrasive paper and backed with a piece of thin veneered plywood glued and screwed on (276:18).
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