All edges should be eased back to prevent lifting and possible impact damage (29:3). If the edges of the groundwork/substrate are also covered they should be laid first, trimmed off flush and the top applied (29:4), the front bevel being formed with a fine-cut file. Mitred edges (29:5) are possible but hardly sensible, as the resultant sharp corners positively invite impact damage, and a more satisfactory treatment is shown in 29:6. Other treatments are shown in 29:7, 8 and 9, and where hardwood lippings or edges are used they can be glued on first and the top cut to exact size and laid afterwards, or the top laid first and then the hardwood edge. Either method calls for skilful working, for the edges must be worked flush with the laminate, and the easier way is to glue on the edge and work it down to the exact projection to receive the laminate, using a loose waste strip as guide. Any fractional adjustment necessary after the top has been laid can then be done by protecting the top with a strip of cellulose tape, and sanding down the high spots. If the top is laid first and the edging after, then a slight bevel (29:9) will keep the cutting tool away from the laminate. Treatment for sinks, washbasins, etc. is shown in 29:10, where a fairly wide edge (A) is applied in case there is any water seepage which might delaminate the plywood layers, with a proprietary mastic bedding (B) between the edge and the rim of the sink.
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