Solid stands are used in modern furniture for table and cabinet stands, divan-type beds and chair sides, etc. They can be of solid core blockboard edged all round with hardwood and face veneered either side (218:1), or built up of light frameworks sheeted with plywood, edged and veneered (218:2). Although the finished appearance would appear to be the same for both types, nevertheless there is a subtle difference, and the former is preferable for high-class work. Solid core blanks can also be built up of plywood sheets glued together to make up the thickness, or more economically of flush-door blockwood blanks obtainable up to 2 in (50 mm) thick. A double tongue and groove for the edgings will be necessary for thickness over 1 in (25 mm) and the edgings can be applied either before or after the face
out to the edges they should not be more than metal honeycomb to prevent any shadowing of about 3/16 in (5 mm) wide, or the junction will the framing members through the thin plywood shadow through in time. Hollow blanks made due to the trapped air becoming progressively up of light softwood framings, tenoned, drier with consequent sinkage of the dowelled or merely spiked together and unsupported sheeting material. For cheap work overlaid with thin plywood should have without filling it is customary to bore a series of additional rails and muntins for stiffness, and holes through the framings, as indicated by the suitably placed uprights for any structural dotted lines in 218:3, which allow trapped air to jointing (218:3). The vacant spaces between the adjust itself to the external atmosphere.
Levelling leg framings, etc.
Some workers cut legs in framed-up work to finished length before jointing, but the better method is to leave a little waste top and bottom and trim off after assembly. The legs can then be cut to length by measuring down after the tops have been squared, or more accurately by standing the framework upside-down on a level surface (sawbench, planer-table), checking that the rails sight through and are not twisted, and then uprighting the stand and shimming up the legs until the top is level. A piece of waste wood thicker than the gap between the shortest leg and the level surface is then used as a scribing-block to mark all sides of the four legs, which are then trimmed to the marks. This method is also useful if it is required to increase the back rake or slope of a chair slightly. The front legs are supported to give the required slope to the back, and then all four legs are scribed and cut; but the alteration must not be too great or the tilt of the front legs will be noticeable, and the backward slope of the seat too much.
Methods of forming three-way joints are illustrated in 219, which shows the constructions.
Was this article helpful?
Wonder No Longer About Things Like Designs, Tools And Safety. These Problems Among Others Will Be Covered In This E-Book. You Will Be Creating Great Wooden Works Of Art In Very Little Time At All! For The Beginning Woodworker, The Construction of Handcrafted Wood Creations Can Be a Daunting And Overwhelming Experience. Well, Not Anymore!