Shaped flush doors

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Curved doors, bow (227:1), serpentine (227:2), ox bow (227:3), etc., can be built up by traditional methods out of solid wood veneered on the face and back. The slats can be coopered (227:4) and then smoothed to the curve, or offset (227:5), or built in sections (227:6) and shaped with stoup-plane, round Surform tool, shaped scraper, etc. The slats need not be tongued together, as in 227:4, 5, and a simple cramping/clamping device is shown in 228 composed of sawn bearers with a packing piece (A) and folding wedges (B) which are driven to cramp the sections together. Modern methods form shaped doors out of thick constructional

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229 Barred door details (1)

veneers or thin sheets of plywood pressed between male and female forms/formers (227:7), or over a male former only in a vacuum-bag press (227:8). In constructing matched formers allowance must be made for the thickness of the assembly, as the radius of the curves of inner and outer faces is not identical. The former (227:10) can be constructed of softwood pieces accurately band-sawn to the curve and faced with hardboard, well waxed to prevent the veneers sticking. Resin glues should be used for cold pressing, or if hide glue is used then heated cauls of heavy sheet zinc or hardwood must be introduced into the assembly. Hand-cramping pressure should be applied to the centre-point, working outwards to each end.

Edging shaped doors

Solid wood will not require edgings, but veneeer assemblies will need the usual form of applied edges. In very shallow curves it may be possible to bend the edging to the shape, first saw kerfing the tongues if they are worked in the solid; if not the edging must be machine-moulded or formed with a portable router or scratch stock on a wide board (227:9), with each length of edging cut off as it is worked and the sawn edge reshaped for the next. Grooves in the door will have to be worked with a suitable cutting-gauge with rounded or dowel-stubbed stock (see Hand tools. Chapter 9) or with veneer or plywood assemblies it may be possible to cut and assemble the individual plies so that the groove is formed in the process. The completed assembly should be glue pressed, left under pressure for as long as possible and given plenty of time to set before face veneering. Any assembly which twists during this period should be rejected, for it is never worth the trouble of trying to correct the twist, nor can the edgings, however stiff, be relied upon to pull it back to shape. As the same formers or forms will be used for the face veneering, a centre-line should be drawn on the former (227:10A), and marked on the assembly before it is withdrawn so that it can be accurately repositioned in all subsequent operations.

230 Breakfront library cabinet in American black walnut, by Rupert Senior and Charles Wheeler-Carmichael

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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