448:7. The friction created by giving the drop handles half a turn is usually sufficient to keep the heaviest mirror in the desired position. The mirror glass itself is cut about 1/16 in (1.5 mm) shy all round, and held in position with small softwood wedges glued and pinned (440:10, 11), while the plywood back can be attached (440:10) or let into a rebate/rabbet (448:11). It should not be glued in case the glass has to be replaced at any time, but should be brass screwed at frequent intervals. Figure 448:11 also shows a method of forming the frame rebate by gluing on an1/8 in (3 mm) facing piece, often cross-grain saw-cut veneer in old work. Figures 448:3,4 show a small toilet mirror with stand, with the standards sloping fractionally, and the mirror frame also attached by small drop handles. If wings are added to these toilet mirrors (448:5) the bearer rail shown in 448:3 can be omitted, and the spread of the feet reduced (448:6), as the angle of the wings will support the complete mirror. The framing need only be jointed as 448:8, with a facing thickness to form the rebate, and the wings attached to the standards with brass butts or back-flap hinges. Drop handles cannot be used for this type as they would foul the wings, and a friction-plate assembly is used of which
450 Walnut table mirror by Alan Peters, c. 1965
451 Shaped mirrors
448:12 is an example of the many types available. The feet of the stands should be tipped with felt or baize to prevent scratching polished surfaces when the mirror is moved.
Figure 451:1, 2 shows a wall mirror with shaped head. The frame can be band-sawn out of solid
451 Shaped mirrors stock, jointed together as in old examples, but a better method is to laminate as in 451:3, tenoning the various sections together as 451:4, and facing with 1/8 in (3 mm) stock to cover the laminations and form the rebate/rabbet. An alternative method for small mirrors is to build up a laminated block with the double curve cut out in one piece as 451:5. The cross-grain tenons might appear weak, for the grain directions forming the lamination are not crossed as in plywood, but in practice the glue-lines hold the fibres together and the strength is adequate. Straight members jointed to curved members can be cut out of solid stock, but in principle it is better to use laminations throughout so that the shrinkage values are identical. Circular mirrors can be spindle shaped or turned on the face plate of a woodturning lathe, building up blocks to form the ring as 451:8, mounting on a plywood disc with a sheet of thick paper glued between, and centring the disc on the metal face plate (451:8A). The individual blocks should be cut and jointed to give as long scarfing joints as possible, and well sized before gluing together; but large mirrors may require the segments jointed together with veneer tongues as in mitre-work, or the face and back of the frame veneered to hold the joints. If the face of the frame is shaped then the back of the frame will have to be glued to the plywood disc and the glass rebate formed with a turning tool. After turning and sanding in the lathe the frame is separated from the paper interleaving in the usual way, and the back (or face) cleaned off. A standard tilting pillar fitment for mounting circular mirrors on dressing-tables is shown in 451:7, which is taken through the top and secured.
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There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.