Blisters and loose patches can be located by tapping with the finger-nail to disclose a hollow sound, or the fingertips brushed rapidly backwards and forwards which gives a slight whisper over the hollow places. Contrary to the general idea, blisters in veneers laid with resin glues are by no means difficult to repair. The veneer should be slit with a razor-blade or sharp knife along the grain, fresh glue inserted, rubbed hard with the pein of a hammer to expel the surplus glue, taped with paper or cellulose tape, covered with a warmed steel scraper or wood block and weighted down for a moment or so. A soldering-iron or electric iron can be used, but all the excess glue must be squeezed out first or the heat will fuse it into a solid lump under the veneer. If blisters occur in very pale or delicate woods, a piece of white blackboard chalk rubbed along the edges of the cut will help to disguise the scar, and in fact all joints in pale woods can be treated in this way, keeping the chalk to the outer edges of the joints only. (Hide glue mixed with flake-white and Salisbury glue [rabbit skin glue] were used for delicate inlays in traditional work, and both types are still obtainable.)
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