Projecting plinths

The simplest form of projecting plinth is illustrated in 195:1, 2 in which the front is plain mitred (195:2) or mitre rebated/rabbeted (195:3) and the corners glue blocked, with the back rail flush and lap dovetailed or tongued and grooved, or inset and housed/dadoed and blocked (195:4). Cross-bearers or stiffeners, where necessary, are housed and blocked or slip dovetailed, and a plinth moulding or capping is glue blocked to give adequate seating for the main carcass. Corner joints can be more elaborate, i.e. secret mitre or secret lap dovetailed, lap dovetails faced with solid wood (not thin veneer which will shadow the dovetails through in time) or tongued mitres, etc., but complex joints are rarely necessary, for the plinth itself is locked to the carcass and there is no side strain unless the furniture is roughly dragged over uneven surfaces. In assembling, shape the capping piece in one length, lay out the positions on the carcass base, bore screw holes for fastening, cut and glue the mitres and screw or cramp temporarily in position with scraps of paper under to prevent the surplus glue adhering. The front, sides and back rail of the actual plinth should then be assembled and glue blocked to the mitred cap moulding, making sure that the projection of the latter is equal all round. When dry the temporary screws in the cap moulding can be released, the plinth unit cleaned off and set aside for later assembly. If the plinth is to remain detachable then locating blocks which fit inside the cap moulding are screwed to the carcass base, and the carcass will then merely rest on the plinth. Traditional bracket plinths are shown in 195:5, 6 and 7, other forms in 195:8, and the construction of shaped plinths in 195:9, 10 and 11. All these plinths can be made up of veneered ply or laminboard, etc., but wood timber is better in case of rough treatment.

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