Moulded legs

Moulded legs parallel or tapered with the mouldings stopped or running through can be worked with the spindle-moulder/shaper if suitable jigs are made up, or made entirely by hand. In the case of simple flutings these can be worked first, either with a round moulding-plane or scratch stock, and the leg tapered after; although if the fluting is very shallow it will have to be deepened slightly at the tapered end or the form will be lost. It is, therefore, better to taper first and then mould, supporting the leg in a suitable cradle (200:1), with the leg wedged as in 200:2 so that the sides of the box are parallel to the main axis of the leg. It will also have to be packed up, and 200:3 shows the method of arriving at the amount of packing required. The section of the leg top (A) and the bottom (B) are drawn out full size, also the exact shape of the moulding at the top. If lines (x) are then drawn from the extremities of the mouldings to the centre point, then the intersection of these lines with the outline of (B) will yield perpendiculars to cut the arc at (C) and (D), and it is only necessary to support the leg at its lower end to this level (200:4). The moulding is then worked with a scratch stock as in 200:1, using suitably shaped scrapers to deepen the profile at the lower end, if necessary. A typical stopped fluted leg is shown in 200:5, and 200:6-9 illustrate other leg sections with the scratch-stock cutters necessary to work them. These cutters are usually made from old saw- or scraper-blades, and can be square ended and burred over, as in the standard scraper, or ground like a plane-iron and then burred, which gives a cleaner cutting action. On the other hand the square-ended cutter can be rocked slightly and will cut on both the forward and backward strokes, and may prove to be the better tool with difficult woods.

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