Jointing veneers hide glues

If the veneer leaf is insufficient to cover the width, one leaf is laid as already described and the next with a 1 in (25 mm) overlap (280:4). The centre-line of the overlap is then cut through with a sharp knife, working against a straight-edge, the edges carefully lifted, fresh glue inserted if necessary, the area reheated and hammered down, and the joint taped with paper to hold the edges together while the glue sets. If the joint subsequently opens it is usually a sign that either too much water has been used or too much pressure applied across the grain, stretching the moist veneer. Built-up patterns, matched curls, etc. are laid in the same way, centre- or guide-lines drawn across the groundwork/substrate and marked on the edges, the first sheet laid to overlap the guideline, the second sheet laid and knifed through (280:5). Diamonds and quarters, etc. can also be treated in this manner, taking care to cut them the same overall size and positioning them with equal laps so that the grain matching is not lost; but they are better laid as taped patterns between cauls. Burrs, burls and curls with violently contrasted grain which have buckled badly should also be laid with cauls, but the veneers must be flatted or flattened before laying (see Flattening veneers, p. 300). Here again an experienced worker might prefer to soak the burrs in very hot water, using the thinnest possible glue and repeatedly hammering down until the veneer sticks.

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