Hinging Butts

So long as the hinges amply support the door or flap, the actual positions are not critical, although appearance must be studied and reference should be made to Door construction, Chapter 23. The plates can be recessed equally (255:9), or the total thickness of the hinge cut into either the door or the carcass (255:10), for it is the position of the knuckle which governs the throw of the hinge. If cut in as 255:9 a wellfitted door flush with the carcass edge might tend to bind on the corners, while with an inset door the knuckle would cut across the projection; therefore on balance the method shown in 255:10 is usually adopted, as this gives a neat finish and allows the stile to clear the carcass end immediately it begins to open. It is, however, necessary to take the strain off the screws by recessing both carcass side and stile, tapering the recesses as shown, and a marking-gauge is first set to the total thickness at the knuckle and gauged on the face of the stile. The width of the hinge to the exact centre of the pin is then gauged on the edge of the stile and the recess cut from the full thickness at the front to the thickness of one plate at the back. The hinge is then screwed to the stile using one centre screw only, placed in position in the opening, a piece of thin cardboard placed under the door to provide the necessary clearance, the position of the hinge marked on the carcass side, the gauge reset to the width of the hinge and marked accordingly, and the recess cut from nothing at the face to the thickness of one plate at the back. The door can now be tried in with another centre screw and the setting adjusted if necessary. The full complement of screws should only be used when the setting is correct, and steel screws should be used for testing, eventually replacing with brass. In very hard woods, oak, etc., it is advisable to run in steel screws throughout and then replace with brass in the final assembly, for it is very easy to scar a slot or twist off the head of a small brass screw in difficult woods. If a screw hole has to be moved fractionally a piece of matchstick inserted in the

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hole will usually provide sufficient bite, while empty cigarette-cartons are useful for shimming up hinges.

As already mentioned, it is the position of the knuckle which determines the throw of a hinge, and a preliminary test can be made by drawing a plan of the fixed section on drawing paper and the moving part on tracing paper; a pin driven through the position of the hinge-pin centre will then allow the tracing to be rotated, showing the extent of the throw. Figures 255:11-15 give various knuckle positions and the angle of opening to be expected (the hinge proportions are exaggerated for illustration purposes), and 255:16 shows the various stages in cutting in and marking out. The positioning of clock-case hinges is illustrated in 255:17, where the centre of the pin must lie on the extreme edge of the moulding with the knuckle clear of the latter.

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