The various parts of a framed-up door, tenoned or dowelled together and with panels of ply or solid wood, are shown in 221; the horns (221:1 A) are left on while the mortises are being cut to prevent the ends splitting and also to protect the heads from damage until the doors are planed to the openings. Solid panels must not be glued in but must be free to slide in the grooves, and the edges of the corners should be lightly waxed, for even a little strong resin glue squeezed out of the mortises during assembly has been known to lock a panel and split the wood; but ply panels can be glued all round and will stiffen up light frameworks. Rebated/ rabbeted frameworks for panels beaded in from the back require long and short mortise and tenon joints, and if the panels are glass the beads should be pinned only and not glued, while heavy-section glass-panelled doors may require wash-leather strips in the rebates to cushion the glass. Rebates for panels can also be formed with raised bolection mouldings (221:5), or panel mouldings (221:6) and both are glued and pinned to the framework only. Flush panels should be in plywood, but fielded panels require solid wood, while raised panels are usually solid but can be in plywood if the edges are covered and the face veneers carried over the edgings. Screwed panels in solid wood require wood buttons screwed to the back of the panel and sliding in grooves in the framework, but plywood panels can be glued direct if the seating is sufficient. The thickness of all panels entering grooves should be checked before assembly with a mullet, as shown in 222, worked with the same grooving-cutter as for the stiles and rails.
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Have you ever wanted to begin woodworking at home? Woodworking can be a fun, yet dangerous experience if not performed properly. In The Art of Woodworking Beginners Guide, we will show you how to choose everything from saws to hand tools and how to use them properly to avoid ending up in the ER.