The cutting in of a typical till or drawer lock is shown in 265. The dimensions of the face plate are first lightly set out and gauged on the drawer top as 265:1, and the recess cut, keeping well inside the lines in case the face plate is slightly
out of square. The position of the case is then marked and sawn as 265:2, and then cut out slightly full so the body of the lock can be placed in position and the face plate checked against the layout marks on the top edge. These are then corrected, recessed out, the lock offered up as 265:3 and the back plate scribed round to be recessed as 265:4. A slight tap on the lock will then register the position of the projecting pin, a hole is bored through to the face, and the keyhole cut from the face side with a small block in the cap recess to support the wood; the lock can then be screwed in position as 265:5. To mark the position of the striking plate rub a little lampblack or dirty grease over the lock bolt,
267 Fall flap and glass door locks turn the key quickly to register the bolt position on the underside of the lock rail and then cut away for the plate. If there are many locks with striking plates to be fitted (the plate is often omitted in cheaper work) it will be worth acquiring a lock chisel (264:7). Striking plates for box locks have projecting nibs (263:5), and the plate is placed in position over the bolt, the lid shut and the marks transferred with gentle pressure. As already mentioned, some locks with their own integral escutcheon plate must be precision fitted, where the pin is dead centre with the back plate, but it is offset in most types of lock and this does simplify the layout, which should be done with a cardboard template.
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