Drawings can be made on narrow rods (see Setting out and cutting lists, Chapter 36), on plywood sheets, or on a drawing-board which can be a piece of good-quality ply or laminboard with an outer facing of close-grained timber, planed up truly square on all four edges. A 30 in (762 mm) T-square is necessary which the craftsman can make for himself (339:1), using 1/8 in (3 mm) finish straight-grained mahogany for the blade, which should taper from about 4 in (101 mm) at the heel to 2 in (50 mm) at the tip, and a 12 in (304 mm) by 2 in (50 mm) by 1/2 in (12.5 mm) stock secured to the blade with short brass screws and a small dab of glue in the centre only. The stock is usually edged with a darker wood, ebony or close-grained rosewood, bevelled off as shown at 339:1a and b, and the blade is similarly treated, with the edge tongued. A hole is bored at the tip for the square to be hung under its own weight, and the wood is sealed and polished with shellac varnish or cellulose. Set-squares are also required, both 60° and 45° and up to 12 in (304 mm) in length
(the key-jointed mahogany square edged with ebony [339:2] is excellent for workshop use), also a long wooden straight-edge, adjustable set-square or protractor, scale rules, dividers, pencil-compass and a beam-compass or set of trammel-points for large sweeps. Pencils should be HB, H and 4H of good quality, sharpened to a long point with about 1/4 in (6 mm) of lead exposed. Paper when used need only be the cheaper detail paper obtainable in widths of up to 5 ft (150 cm), or rolls of good-quality paper-hanger's lining paper which can be taped together to form larger sheets. Drawing-pins are now rarely used, and the paper can be taped to the board with draughting or cellulose tape.
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