These are no longer used to any great extent but handworkers may find the process useful, particularly where the jointing methods must be hidden. The boards are planed slightly hollow
and a marking-gauge is run down the centre of each edge; the boards are then cramped/ clamped together and the dowel positions squared across. Boring must be dead accurate with a3/8 in (9.5 mm) dowel at about 5 in (125 mm) centres for up to 1 in (25 mm) boards, and1/2 in (12.5 mm) dowels for thicker timbers. It is usually reckoned that dowel-pegs should enter about 11/4 in (32 mm) for maximum efficiency, with a slight gap at the bottom of the socket for surplus glue, with the dowel driven home on one edge and the projection checked with the corresponding socket on the other edge. The dowel ends can be chamfered and the sockets countersunk for easy entry, particularly if there are slight errors in the laying out. Where boards have to be end butted to increase the overall length, dowels offer a practical method of strengthening the joint.
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