These joints are sometimes used for bevel-sided hoppers, knife-boxes, etc., and although rarely used are worth describing for the sake or the principles involved in setting or laying out bevelled work. A full-size drawing is necessary from which the true length (A) and the true width (B) can be obtained (158), also the edge bevel in the thickness of each piece shown by the arrowed line (c). All the bevels are marked and worked holding the bevel at right angles to the edges of the sloping ends and not parallel with the sides. A marking-gauge cannot be used for setting out the dovetails, and depths etc. must be marked with pencil and adjustable bevel, while the dovetails are cut to slope equally either side of lines drawn parallel with the sides (see Canted dovetails above), but the pins are, of course, parallel. In cutting the dovetails above the piece should be canted to bring the cuts vertical, as in 158D but marking
the pins by drawing the saw point through the tail kerfs is difficult owing to the slope, and therefore it is better to chisel out the dovetails and mark around them on the pin piece with an awl.
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