Bridle Joints

Angle or corner bridles (141:2) are sometimes referred to as 'slot'/'open' mortise and tenon joints, and procedure is virtually the same as for tenoned work. They must be marked out with a mortise-gauge, working always from the face sides, and set to give a slot about one-third the total thickness, with equal substance left on either side. They are stronger than the corner halving as the gluing area is doubled, and the stout shoulders take the strain. 'T' bridles (141:3) form a stronger connection than 'T' halvings, and are the usual method of connecting middle legs to continuous top rails, where two short tenons would have little strength. If the top rail is thinner than the legs, the mortise-gauge must be reset accordingly (141:4), and if the rail is curved then a flat must be formed on the face of the rail so that the gauge works parallel. In cutting the slots it is quicker to saw the shoulders down to the full depth, bore a hole with brace and bit through the waste from either side (141:6) and finish off with a chisel. The slots are usually cut first and the tenon part cut and pared to fit, for it is easier to chisel across the tenon than to pare down vertically in the slot. Skew rails (141:7) cannot be bridled, and must be notched in and glue blocked from behind as shown. The rails can meet square at A if preferred.

Mitre bridles (141:5) are useful in framed-up work, mirrors, etc., and form a strong joint. Any moulding or rebating to the frame must be done first before the tenon and slot are cut. A stopped form is shown at A which is more delicate but not so strong.

141 Bridle joints, etc.

141 Bridle joints, etc.

7 BLOCK

7 BLOCK

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