Balancing Veneers

Veneers laid with hide glue will pull even the thickest groundwork/substrate into cup as it dries out, and even resin glues with their reduced moisture content will cause slight warping. If the groundwork is firmly anchored to a heavy supporting frame or locked in a carcass construction it may not call for additional treatment, although solid wood bases should always be veneered on the heart or rounded side to equalize the natural pull (287:5, 7); but in all unsupported work the reverse side must be treated with a balancing veneer (287:8). Ideally, this balancing or 'backing' veneer should be of the same thickness and of similar or comparable species as the face veneer, but in practice balancing veneers are usually makore (cherry mahogany), African mahogany, sapelewood, etc. They are laid with the grain direction similar to the face veneers, but the joints need only be cut and fitted together without matching unless the work is visible. Balance veneering is sometimes referred to as Counter veneering, but it should not be confused with the latter which is a distinct process described on p. 307.

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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