Machining The Foot Halves

□ PLUG LOCATION

Marked_ outline

2V2" rabbet Vie" deep

29 Vi"

STEP 1

Vz" cove bit

STEP 2

for safety when ripping

STEP 1

Vz" cove bit

STEP 2

for safety when ripping

Double-faced tape between pieces

* r

1V1

J

i \ Zero-clearance VJi tablesaw T^T insert

No round-overs

FOOT DETAIL

No round-overs

holes Vt" deep

%" counterbores V4" deep with 5/32" holes centered inside holes Vt" deep

%" counterbores V4" deep with 5/32" holes centered inside

CORNER BRACE

in the side aprons (D) centered over the dadoes cut in the previous step. Chuck a 5/32" bit into your drill press, and drill holes centered inside the counterbores.

5Chuck a 'A" round-over bit into your table-mounted router, and clamp a fence flush with the bit's bearing. Mark start- and stop-lines on the fence for the round-overs .(stopped l'A" from each end, as shown on Drawing 1) on the side and end aprons. Rout the round-overs.

6 Mark the centeipoints of the holes on the corner braces (F), and then drill and countersink them, where shown on Drawing 7. Use a chisel to finish forming the slot after drilling out most of the waste.

7 Prepare a large flat surface (we used a half-sheet of plywood), and then lay out the parts for assembly. (You will find it easier to assemble the table upside down.) Brush glue into the V-dadoes, and then loosely assemble the leg assemblies, aprons, and corner braces. When everything is aligned, tighten the nuts on the hanger bolts. Next, using the holes in the corner braces as guides, drill Vm" pilot holes V2" deep into the apron sides and ends. Then, drive the screws through the corner braces.

8Cut the center brace (G) to length, checking it against the base assembly. Glue and clamp it in position. Then, using the holes in the side aprons as guides, drill %»" pilot holes 1" deep into the ends of the center brace. Drive the screws, and then glue the mahogany plugs into place. After the glue dries, sand the plugs flush.

Next, make and attach the top assembly

IRip and crosscut the top panel (H) to the dimensions listed in the Materials List. Rip l"-wide strips of banding (I, J) from W-thick stock. Miter-cut the ends of the parts, and then glue and clamp them to the perimeter of the top panel flush with its top surface.

2 Put the top assembly facedown on your workbench, and center the upside-down base on it. Trace the outline of the aprons and center brace on the plywood to indicate where to drill holes for the screws that attach the top to the base. Remove the base, and mark the screw-hole centerpoints. Drill a V32" shank hole at each centerpoint. Turn the top assembly over, and countersink the holes.

3 Place the top on the base in its final position, and then clamp the assemblies together. Using the holes in the top panel as guides, drill Vm" pilot holes 3A" deep into the aprons and center brace. Drive the screws, making certain that each head is slightly countersunk.

4 Fill the holes in the top panel with putty. Let it dry, and sand it flush.

You're ready to laminate the top

ICut plastic laminate for the top surface (K) initially oversized to 34x46". (We used Formica color 942, Nile, matte finish.) Apply contact cement to the laminate and the top assembly according to directions on the can.

2 When the contact cement is ready to bond the parts, place clean spacers (we used seven '/^''-diameter dowels) on the top assembly, and then center the laminate on the spacers.

3Remove the center spacer, and smooth the laminate to the top assembly. Continue adhering the laminate, working from the center outward by removing spacers and smoothing the laminate. Complete the bond by applying pressure. (We used a rubber J-roller, but you could roll out the sheet with a household rolling pin instead.)

□ TABLETOP BEAD

Trim the laminate and shape the edge banding at the same time. Rout counterclockwise around the top.

Chuck a 3/$" round-over bit into your router, and rout as shown on Drawing 8 and Photo C. Rout the laminate and banding, working counterclockwise around the top. (We did this in two passes, lowering the bit the second pass.)

A tough finish completes the table

1 Remove the legs from the table, touch-up sand, and carefully mask the laminate. Apply your choice of finish. (We applied three coats of Minwax semigloss Fast-Drying Polyurethane, sanding with 320-grit sandpaper and using a tack cloth between coats.)

2 Reassemble the table, and remove the masking tape and paper from the laminate.^

Written by Robert J. Settich Project design: Jan Svec Illustrations: Lorna Johnson Photographs: Hopkins Associates

...furniture plans at http: / / woodstore. woottm a II. c o m/f urnitur e/mdeK.htm i

Materials List

FINISHED

SIZE

Base

T

W

L

Matl. Qty.

A* leg halves

¥4

3V2"

29 W

M

8

B corner blocks

11/2"

VA"

4"

LM

4

C'feet

3/4"

2W

21/4"

MH

~~8~

D side aprons

w

3'/2"

39'/2"

M

2

E end aprons

31/2"

271/2"

M

2

F corner braces

3V2"

43/4'

M

4

G* center brace

3'/2n

291/4"

M

—r

Tabletop

H top panel

3/4"

321/2"

44'/2"

P

1

I* banding

1"

46"

MH

J* banding

y4"

1"

34"

MH

2

K* top surface

Vie"

34"

46"

PL

~r

"Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materials key: M-maple, LM-laminated maple, MH-mahogany, P-plywood, PL-plastic laminate.

"Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materials key: M-maple, LM-laminated maple, MH-mahogany, P-plywood, PL-plastic laminate.

Supplies: Vs" tempered hardboard for splines, y8x3V2" hanger bolts (4), ¥b" flat washers (4), %" hexnuts (4), #8x1 VV1 flathead wood screws (24), #8x1 'A" flathead wood screws (21), contact cement, wood putty, clear finish.

Cutting Diagram

fà)

'fKï

vïv

  • x 9V4 x 96'' Maple
  • x 9V4 x 96'' Maple
  • x 5Vz x 72" Mahogany x 3V2 x 20" Partlcleboard
  • x 5Vz x 72" Mahogany x 3V2 x 20" Partlcleboard
% x 48 x 48" Plywood

□ TABLETOP BEAD

3/e" round-over bit

Trim the laminate and shape the edge banding at the same time. Rout counterclockwise around the top.

3/e" round-over bit

This country-style treasure can adorn a hallway or foyer as a side table, or it can be used in a dining room as a sideboard. Use the top and lower shelf for displaying collectibles, and fill the roomy drawers with utensils or odds and ends that need a home.

0 apron rails

3/i6n round-overs

Dadoes and screw holes In the back rail are In the same location as those in the front rail.

3/i6n round-overs

Dadoes and screw holes In the back rail are In the same location as those in the front rail.

Secure a 45° V-block to your miter gauge to cut the W notch in each leg.

To start, machine the four legs

IFrom laminated stock or 8/4 material (commonly called eight-quarter stock), cut four l%"-square legs (A) to 32'A" long. Mark the mortise locations on adjacent surfaces, where dimensioned on Drawing 1.

2 Fit your table-mounted router with a 3/s" straight bit set to cut Vi" deep. Position the router-table fence to cut a mortise centered along the edges of the legs, where marked on Drawing 1a. Clamp a stop to the fence to ensure all eight mortises are exactly 6W long. Rout the mortises, then chisel the round-routed ends square.

3Mount a 45° V-block support to your miter gauge, as shown in Photo A, far left. Fit your tablesaw with a 3A" dado blade. Cut a %" dado 1 'Ae" deep and 6" from the bottom end of each leg, as shown in the photo and dimensioned on Drawing 1.

19V2"

1/4" long

Va" groove W deep 3/a" from top edge for tabletop fasteners to fit into

Va" groove VV' deep %" from top edge for tabletop fasteners to fit into

Tabletop fastener

4d finish nails toenailed through shelf and into (A)

End cleats are mounted 8" from ends of shelf.

fasteners

5/32" flat washer #8 x IV4" R.H. wood screw' Center cleat is centered under shelf

  • quot; chamfer on ends
  • x 6 Vs" tenon V2" long
  • quot; notch 1 Vie" deep cut at 45°

Trim corner of shelf at 45° to match notch in legs.

fasteners

Va" groove VV' deep %" from top edge for tabletop fasteners to fit into

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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