Attach the face frame and rout the molding groove

IGlue and clamp the face frame to the cabinet. (Before clamping the face frame to the cabinet, we placed masking tape on the walnut plywood next to the joints being glued, so any glue squeeze-out dried on the tape. After the glue dried, we peeled off the tape and excess glue. This was easier than removing the squeeze-out with a damp cloth or scraping it off after it dried.)

2 Mount a flush-trimming laminate bit into your router. Rout the W pro-

b cabinet top s3 cove molding detail es bullnose

Va" round-overs (Vi" bullnose)

W dadoes Ve" deep, routed after cabinet is assembled

Set blade t/2" above table for final cut.

cutting the cove hole

5/32m hole, countersunk

Va round-overs (1/4m bullnose)

Center of blade b full-size cove

Resaw lamination to 1'3/i6" thick before coving.

Set straightedge at a 33° angle. Raise blade V2" above table.

b full-size cove

es bullnose

Set straightedge at a 33° angle. Raise blade V2" above table.

Va" round-overs (Vi" bullnose)

W dadoes Ve" deep, routed after cabinet is assembled

Resaw lamination to 1'3/i6" thick before coving.

cutting the cove

hole

5/32m hole, countersunk

Va round-overs (1/4m bullnose)

Center of blade

Straight board clamped to 10" tablesaw

Set blade t/2" above table for final cut.

trading outside edge of the stiles flush with the outside face of the cabinet sides (A). (We found this more effective than trying to plane the edges flush.)

3 Mount a lA" straight bit in your router. Clamp a straightedge (we used a piece of plywood) to the cabinet side. Rout a 'A" dado W deep 10" from the top edge of the cabinet top where shown on Drawing 4. Move the straightedge and rout the other side. Now, rout the front face. Using Drawing 3 for reference, rout the dado across the bottom of the cabinet.

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