Writing Desk

Sometimes you need a quiet place to sit and cubbyholes to keep things organized, and write that letter or novel. This desk is The faux leather top creates a perfect based on the style of a rolltop desk. It writing surface. The top also opens up to gives the feeling of privacy with the wrap- reveal a pencil holder and room for st.or-

around sides and has plenty of drawers ing writing paper inside.

Top L

Center Vertical Div.der Q

4o mitered córner

Top L

Center Vertical Div.der Q

1

~>wrOW

it

p,

rnel

Bottom L

Horizontal Divider P

\T bevel

Surround Side Panel T

1/4" stopped dado for bottom Drawer Side R-2

Drawer Front/Back R-1

Bottom L

Horizontal Divider P

\T bevel

Surround Side Panel T

17° bevel

Side Apron D

Center Stcage Bottom G

17° bevel

Side Apron D

Leg B

Center Stcage Bottom G

Center Storage Bottom

Front Apron

Pencil fray Detail

Vinyl Writing Top 3/4" Plywood

Frame

Frame Detai

Leg Detail

Cutting List • Writing Desk

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

A

1

Top

Walnut

1%

28

48

B

4

Legs*

Walnut

3

3

28%

C

2

Front and back aprons

Walnut

%

3

4VA

D

2

Side aprons

Walnut

3

21 'A

E

2

Center stringers

Walnut

:A

3

23 K

F

4

Corner braces

Walnut

VA

3

5

G

1

Center storage bottom

Birch ply

'A

24

24%

H

2

End cleats

Poplar

A

15%

J

2

Center cleats

Poplar

%

7%

23%

K

1

Lid

Walnut

1%

m

23%

K-1

2

Lid frame sides

Walnut

VA

VA

17%

K-2

2

Lid frame top & bottom

Walnut

1%

VA

23%

K-3

1

Lid panel

Walnut

%

16 3%

22%s

'Note: The legs are tapered on the two outside sides only. The inside sides are left square for ease of assembly.

COMMENTS

w/24"-wide by 18"-deep lid opening Each leg tapers to 2" at the top

'Note: The legs are tapered on the two outside sides only. The inside sides are left square for ease of assembly.

Cutting List • Desktop Organizer for the Writing Desk

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

L

2

Top and bottom

Walnut

3%

8

453%

M

8

Vertical dividers

Walnut

%

7%

8%

N

4

Horizontal dividers

Walnut

%

7%

10

P

1

Center horizontal divider

Walnut

%

7%

12

Q

3

Center vertical dividers

Walnut

%

7%

5%

R

6

Drawers

Walnut

2% high

10

7% deep

R-1

6

Fronts and backs

Walnut

%

2%

99/s

R-2

12

Sides

Walnut

%

2%

7 %

R-3

6

Bottoms

Walnut

%

6%

9%

S

1

Surround back

Walnut

3%

12

47%

T

2

Surround side panels

Walnut

3%

12

22%

U

2

Pencil tray bottoms

Walnut

%

1%

23%

V

1

Pencil tray front

Walnut

%

1/

23%

w

1

Pencil tray center

Walnut

%

VA

23%

X

6

Drawer pulls

Padauk

%

'A

Any contrasting wood will work

COMMENTS

Any contrasting wood will work

Hardware and Supplies

Vinyl writing top %s" x 17%" x 23A" (1,5mm x 445mm x 597mm)

18mm Soss hinges (2)

Screws

Glue

Biscuits

Contact cement

Metrie Cutting List • Writing Desk

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

A

1

Top

Walnut

32

B

4

Legs*

Walnut

76

C

2

Front and back aprons

Walnut

22

D

2

Side aprons

Walnut

22

E

2

Center stringers

Walnut

19

F

4

Corner braces

Walnut

45

G

1

Center storage bottom

Birch ply

13

H

2

End cleats

Poplar

22

J

2

Center cleats

Poplar

22

K

1

Lid

Walnut

32

K-1

2

Lid frame sides

Walnut

32

K-2

2

Lid frame top & bottom

Walnut

32

K-3

1

Lid panel

Walnut

19

  • l\lote: The legs are tapered on the two outside sides only. The inside sides
  • l\lote: The legs are tapered on the two outside sides only. The inside sides

WIDTH LENGTH COMMENTS

711 1219 w/610mm-wide by 457mm-deep lid opening

76 724 Each leg tapers to 51 mm at the top

76 1054

76 546

76 603

76 127

610 623

22 394

22 597

454 608

38 454

38 608

416 570

left square for ease of assembly.

Metric Cutting List • Desktop Organizer for the Writing Desk

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

L

2

Top and bottom

Walnut

19

203

1162

M

8

Vertical dividers

Walnut

13

191

216

N

4

Horizontal dividers

Walnut

13

191

254

P

1

Center horizontal divider

Walnut

13

191

305

Q

3

Center vertical dividers

Walnut

13

191

140

R

6

Drawers

Walnut

64 high

254

188 deep

R-1

6

Fronts and backs

Walnut

13

64

243

R-2

12

Sides

Walnut

13

64

188

R-3

6

Bottoms

Walnut

6

173

242

S

1

Surround back

Walnut

19

305

1200

T

2

Surround side panels

Walnut

19

305

572

U

2

Pencil tray bottoms

Walnut

6

38

590

V

1

Pencil tray front

Walnut

6

35

590

W

1

Pencil tray center

Walnut

6

41

590

X

6

Drawer pulls

Padauk

13

19

Any contrasting wood will work

COMMENTS

Any contrasting wood will work r

Using double biscuits increases the joint strength significantly.

T/Z? "I Glue the two end apron/leg assemblies LvJ J together first. Then glue the two end assemblies together. Use the scrap wedge-shaped pieces that fell off when cutting the leg tapers as shims to square the clamp faces to the assembly.

Use a tapering jig to put the taper on the legs. This homemade jig can be adjusted to make a variety of tapers. (Note the two adjusting screws that make it easy to change the amount of taper.)

After routing a small bevel on the bottom outside edge of the aprons. Glue up the assembly of the two long apron pieces and the two stringers.

L^ J triangle. This Is a great aid in keeping the legs in proper order.

Cut a rabbet in the glued-up assembly for the bottom piece of the storage area.

Using double biscuits increases the joint strength significantly.

T/Z? "I Glue the two end apron/leg assemblies LvJ J together first. Then glue the two end assemblies together. Use the scrap wedge-shaped pieces that fell off when cutting the leg tapers as shims to square the clamp faces to the assembly.

m After cutting the corner blocks to size on a miter saw, go to the table saw and cut notches in the corner blocks for the legs. This can also be done either with a handsaw or on the band saw.

Glue the corner blocks in place. These blocks add strength to the leg/apron corner assemblies.

[1 1] Attach the top with washers and l-L -L j screws. The washers help to keep the screws from pulling into the cleats.

After gluing cleats to the aprons and stringers for attaching the top to the base, drill M" pilot holes in the cleats for screwing the top to the base. These oversize holes will let the screws move with the solid wood top.

Make the top in three pieces (this makes it easy to create the opening for the lid). Double-check for squareness. Cut the angle on the top's edge using a table saw or a circular saw.

[1 1] Attach the top with washers and l-L -L j screws. The washers help to keep the screws from pulling into the cleats.

Attach the storage area bottom with screws. You can leave the rabbet corners rounded or square them out. Either way will look good.

On a table saw, cut the rabbet on the lid frame stock. Then cut the stock to length as indicated in the cutting list and glue the parts together. Use biscuits in the corner joints for strength.

The upper desk organizer has several cubbyholes and six openings lor the drawers. Take your time laying out this assembly and draw lines where all the parts will go. Using biscuits to assemble this organizer will make it easier to line everything up at assembly time. By laying the top and bottom out at the same time, it is easy to see where all the parts will go.

Cut a3/" birch (or any smooth veneer) plywood panel to fit exactly in the opening of the desk lid. Then cut a rabbet on all the edges of the panel so it fits into the top frame opening of the lid. Make sure that the top surface of the panel is flush to the top surface of the frame. Allow for the thickness of the faux leather material around the edges of the top opening. Attach the vinyl to the panel with contact cement. Roll it out smoothly, starting in the center of the panel and working out to the edges, so no bubbles occur.

Trim the vinyl so there is a flap left all around the edges of the panel lip. This flap will fold into the opening of the frame when the panel is installed. Cut a notch in the vinyl at the corners so it will fold properly.

The panel can then be pushed Into the lid opening from the inside of the frame and the vinyl will fold Into the rabbet.

Repeat this step for the final cut.

  • quot; 1 Move the side piece over and drop the L5--' J side over the spacer block into the cut just made and make the final cut.
  • Cutting Box-Joint Fingers]_

After setting up the dado stack cutters to cut a /"-wide by?f-deep notch, make the first cut in the miter-gauge fence. Cut a piece of wood the exact size of the dado cut in the fence and put it in the slot with part of it sticking out past the lace ol the fence. Move the fence over the exact width of the dado cut. This will give you the proper spacing for cutting the fingers.

m Place a spacer the same width of the finger against the spacing block and make the first cut. Note the sandpaper attached to the miter fence to help hold the pieces firmly in place.

"I Move the piece until the spacing block L^ J Is in the slot you just cut and make the second cut.

Place the edge of the side against the spacer block and make the first cut.

[" 1 Move the side piece over and drop the L5--' J side over the spacer block into the cut just made and make the final cut.

Repeat this step for the final cut.

This is what the assembled joint will look like when all of the fingers are cut.

Secure the panel In place with cleats. The cleats can be removed If the top material needs to be replaced.

Attach the lid to the desk. I used invisible Soss hinges, but a brass continuous hinge would also look great. Finally, sand all the parts, finishing up with 150-grit sandpaper. This project was finished with three coats of catalyzed lacquer. A wipe-on finish containing Danish or tung oil and polyurethane would work very well also. Sand with 320-grit sandpaper between coats. Rub out the final coat with #0000 steel wool.

Use cardboard to mock-up the shape of parts so you can see what they will look like. This gives you the freedom to change any shape very easily.Then use the cardboard mock-up as a pattern to make a routing template from '/" plywood.

I"l Q 1 The desktop organizer is assembled using biscuit L-L^ J joinery. Dry fit the desktop organizer to be sure it will all come together properly. Then glue the two drawer opening sections and the center assembly together first, and then the whole organizer (you may want to finish all the parts first, then glue It all together).

Now it's time to glue up the pencil holder

When the surround parts are cut, lay the parts flat with the miters facing down. Butt the edges of the miters to each other and tape the joints together using clear packaging tape. Carefully turn the assembly over, apply glue in the miter joint and fold it into a right angle. Stand the surround assembly up and let the glue dry completely before moving it. (You might need to use a large bar clamp at the front edges to pull the assembly square.)

Cut a stopped dado for the drawer bottom in the front and back pieces. This dado Is cut all the way through on the side pieces.

the drawers with a belt sander.

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