Work Center

An armoire work center addresses many housekeeping problems for the busy home worker. Most importantly, it. organizes all your documents and equipment, in one place. You don't have to lug everything out each time you begin working — just open the doors and start being productive. When you have guests drop in, simply close the doors. It's an instant office that's perfect for the bedroom, family room or a large kitchen. And though it's not very difficult to build, this project is one that wall be greatly appreciated by anv busy home-office worker.

This armoire has large doors with bulletin and memo boards on the back side. There's even a place to hold documents that you need to access quickly and easily. The adjustable bookshelf is large enough to store CDs, books and directories, and the drawer bank has two utility drawers, as well as a hanging file drawer. The computer monitor sits directly above a large keyboard tray, and the computer CPU can be mounted on a pull-out tray for easier disk insertion and removal. There's even a place available for storing all of your paper supplies.

Head Casing N

Grenze fo1" ra'I tetiçrrs and pane 9

-deep by 3/4"-wíde / " :'ck>et for back

Head Casing N

Grenze fo1" ra'I tetiçrrs and pane 9

-deep by 3/4"-wíde / " :'ck>et for back

Base Trim Board F

Base Trim Board F

Cutting List • Armoire Work Center

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

A

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

3A

23/

72

B

1

Back

Oak veneer ply

3A

48

72

C

1

Top

Oak veneer ply

'A

22A

47/

D

1

Bottom

Oak veneer ply

3A

15%

47/

E

1

Bottom edge board

Solid oak

3A

VA

47/

F

2

Base trim boards

Solid oak

/

3A

23/

G

2

Desktop cleats

Solid oak

3A

3A

183/

H

1

Desktop cleat

Solid oak

3A

3A

453/

J

1

Desktop

Oak veneer ply

3A

18 3A

47/

K

1

Desktop edge

Solid oak

3A

VA

47/

L

2

Stiles

Solid oak

3A

VA

72

M

1

Rail

Solid oak

3A

5A

45s/

N

2

Side head casing

Solid oak

A

3%

26%

P

1

Front head casing

Solid oak

3A

3A

543/

Q

2

Side crown moulding

Solid oak

3A

3%

26/

R

1

Front crown moulding

Solid oak

3A

3As

53/

Drawer

Compartment & Drawers

S

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

3A

18 3A

27

T

1

Bottom and top

Oak veneer ply

A

18 3A

17/

U

1

Side spacer cleat

Oak veneer ply

/

2

27

V

2

Top spacers

Oak veneer ply

3A

2

18

w

2

Top drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

A

4A

18

X

2

Drawer front & back

Baltic birch ply

A

4/

153/

Y

1

Top drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

A

16/

18

Z

2

Middle drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

A

5

18

AA

2

Front and back

Baltic birch ply

A

5

153/

BB

1

Middle drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

A

16/

18

CC

2

File drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

'A

10

18

DD

2

Front and back

Baltic birch ply

A

10

153/

EE

1

File drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

A

16/

18

FF

1

Top drawer face

Oak veneer ply

3A

6 /

18/

GG

1

Middle drawer face

Oak veneer ply

3A

6A

18/

HH

1

Bottom drawer face

Oak veneer ply

3A

13/

18/

Keyboard Pull-Out

JJ

2

Horizontal support cleats

Oak veneer ply

3A

3A

18

KK

2

Vertical support cleats

Solid oak

2A

3'A

18

LL

2

Sides

Solid oak

3A

VA

18

MM

2

Front and back

Oak veneer ply

3A

VA

213/

Nl\l

1

Center panel

Oak veneer ply

3A

21 3/

Angle cut Angle cut Angle cut Angle cut

Edge with wood veneer tape Edge with wood veneer tape Edge with wood veneer tape comments

Angle cut Angle cut Angle cut Angle cut

Edge with wood veneer tape Edge with wood veneer tape Edge with wood veneer tape

Cutting List (continued) • Armoire Work Center

ref.

qty.

part

material

thickness

width

lengl

CPU PuLL-Out

PP

2

Cleats

Solid oak

Vs

%

16

QQ

2

Vertical supports

Solid oak

%

3 'A

16

RR

1

Pull-out tray

Solid oak

%

11

16

Paper Storage Shelf

SS

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

X

11

20

TT

3

Shelves

Oak veneer ply

%

11

12

Bookcase

UU

4

Sides

Oak veneer ply

3/

12

20

w

4

Bottoms and tops

Oak veneer ply

%

12

22 %

WW

2

Adjustable shelves

Oak veneer ply

K

12

22

Doors

XX

2

Hinge support spacers

Oak veneer ply

%

3

7VA

YY

4

Stiles

Solid oak

%

3

67

11

6

Rails

Solid oak

y,

3

18%

AB

4

Center panels

Oak veneer ply

%

18K

Screws

Nails

Glue

Biscuits or dowels

Three-quarter extension drawer glides

Full-extension drawer glides for the file drawer

107° hidden hinges

170° hidden hinges

Cable hole grommets

Commercial CD racks (optional)

Pull-out keyboard tray

Drawer and door handles

Metal brackets

Metric Cutting List • Armoire Work Center

ref.

qty.

part

material

thickness

width

length

A

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

19

590

1829

B

1

Back

Oak veneer ply

19

1219

1829

C

1

Top

Oak veneer ply

19

572

1200

D

1

Bottom

Oak veneer ply

19

387

1200

E

1

Bottom edge board

Solid oak

19

38

1200

F

2

Base trim boards

Solid oak

19

89

590

G

2

Desktop cleats

Solid oak

19

19

476

H

1

Desktop cleat

Solid oak

19

19

1162

J

1

Desktop

Oak veneer ply

19

476

1200

K

1

Desktop edge

Solid oak

19

38

1200

L

2

Stiles

Solid oak

19

38

1829

M

1

Rail

Solid oak

19

133

1162

N

2

Side head casing

Solid oak

19

82

682

P

1

Front head casing

Solid oak

19

82

1391

Q

2

Side crown moulding

Solid oak

19

79

666

R

1

Front crown moulding

Solid oak

19

79

1352

Drawer Compartment & Drawers

S

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

19

476

686

T

1

Bottom and top

Oak veneer ply

19

476

438

U

1

Side spacer cleat

Oak veneer ply

19

51

686

V

2

Top spacers

Oak veneer ply

19

51

457

w

2

Top drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

13

115

457

X

2

Drawer front & back

Baltic birch ply

13

115

400

Y

1

Top drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

13

412

457

Z

2

Middle drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

13

127

457

AA

2

Front and back

Baltic birch ply

13

127

400

BB

1

Middle drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

13

412

457

CC

2

File drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

13

254

457

DD

2

Front and back

Baltic birch ply

13

254

400

EE

1

File drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

13

412

457

FF

1

Top drawer face

Oak veneer ply

19

165

470

GG

1

Middle drawer face

Oak veneer ply

19

165

470

HH

1

Bottom drawer face

Oak veneer ply

19

343

470

Keyboard Pult-Out

JJ

2

Horizontal support cleats

Oak veneer ply

19

82

457

KK

2

Vertical support cleats

Solid oak

19

82

457

LL

2

Sides

Solid oak

19

38

457

MM

2

Front and back

Oak veneer ply

19

38

552

NN

1

Center panel

Oak veneer ply

19

552

Angle cut Angle cut Angle cut Angle cut

Edge with wood veneer tape Edge with wood veneer tape Edge with wood veneer tape comments

Angle cut Angle cut Angle cut Angle cut

Edge with wood veneer tape Edge with wood veneer tape Edge with wood veneer tape

Metric Cutting List (continued) • Armoire Work Center ref. qty. part material thickness width length comments

CPU Pull-Out

pp

2

Cleats

Solid oak

19

19

406

ÛÛ

2

Vertical supports

Solid oak

19

89

406

RR

1

Pull-out tray

Solid oak

19

279

SS 2 Sides Oak veneer ply 19 279 508

TT 3 Shelves Oak veneer ply 19 279 305

Bookcase

UU

4

Sides

Oak veneer ply

19

305

508

VV

4

Bottoms and tops

Oak veneer ply

19

305

562

WW

2

Adjustable shelves

Oak veneer ply

19

305

559

Doors

XX

2

Hinge support spacers

Oak veneer

ply

19

76

1809

YY

4

Stiles

Solid oak

19

76

1702

11

6

Rails

Solid oak

19

76

467

AB

4

Center panels

Oak veneer

ply

6

463

762

[9 "I The backboard is secured to the two side panels in the L^ J rabbet cuts. Use glue and 2" finishing nails driven from the backside of the panel into the side edges.

m Prepare both side panels by cutting a K"-wide by 3i"-deep rabbet on the inside back edge of each panel. Use a router and straight bit with a guide, or form the rabbet on a router table.

[9 "I The backboard is secured to the two side panels in the L^ J rabbet cuts. Use glue and 2" finishing nails driven from the backside of the panel into the side edges.

mtvn^M rmwmmt m Mmmmn

The top board is attached to the sides and backboard with glue and 2" screws. It's installed flush with the top edges of both sides as well as the backboard. The screws can be driven through the side panels because the heads will be covered with trim molding.

The solid wood base trim boards (F) are installed on the lower end of each side panel. Before securing the boards, use a W roundover bit to remove the top and both end edges. Attach the trim pieces with glue and 1X" screws. The screw heads are Installed under the bottom board, and the trim Is clamped only where the screw heads would be visible in front of the bottom board.

mtvn^M rmwmmt m Mmmmn

\ a 1 the 130110111 b°arc1,0 s'ze as detailed in the cutting list. You'll also L^* J need to prepare the solid wood strip (E) to cover the front edge on this panel. The edge strip should be rounded over on the front face with a %" roundover bit. Attach it to the bottom board, with Its top edge flush with the top surface of the panel, using glue and biscuits or nails. Install the bottom board using glue and 2"-long screws driven through the sides and back panel. The top surface of this board should be VA" above the bottom edges of the sides and back panels.

Predrill the holes in each cleat for screws that will be used to support the desktop. The cleats are only 3/<" wide and it's difficult to get a drill located correctly after they are installed. Use a bit larger than the screw shaft so the desktop will be tightly drawn to the cleat surface. The screws can only spin freely in the cleats and thread tightly in the underside of the desktop, securing it properly.

mThe desktop (J) requires a hardwood edge strip (K), similar to the bottom board. Dress the hardwood edge with a %" router bit after attaching It to the desktop. Secure the completed top to the support cleats with glue and 1X" screws.

Secure the three desktop support cleats (G and H) with glue and 1X" screws. Predrill the holes In the cleats to avoid cracking the thin strips. Attach the cleats so their top edges are 29X" above the floor.

Cut the two stiles (L) and install one before proceeding further. The stiles are secured flush with the outside face of each side panel and secured with glue and finishing nails. Countersink the nail holes and fill with wood putty.

The upper rail (M) Is secured with glue and biscuits into the stile edges. It is also face nailed to the edge of the top board. If you don't own a biscuit joiner, use dowels or small wood blocks on the backside to attach the rail and stiles. Install the second stile now.

While the cabinet is on Its back, cut and install the head casing. The trim is made by rounding over the front edge of a 1x4 board and cutting it to size. Once the edge is rounded over, cut the 45° mitered corners. This head casing extends 2'a" past the front and side faces of the cabinet. It's secured with glue and 1M" screws.

Now is a great time to sand the face frame smooth. It's also worth taking time to fill the nail head holes before the crown moulding is attached.

[Cutting Crown Moulding]

Crown moulding can be accurately cut at

45° if placed correctly in your miter box or saw. Always place the crown upside-down on the miter saw. In other words, think ol the saw table as the ceiling and the backboard as the wall surlace. Orient the crown so its top rests squarely on the saw table and the bottom lightly against the saw backstop. You'll get a perfect miter cut each and every time.

[Ill Stock 3/s"-high crown moulding Is glued and nailed at an angle L-L J-J between the cabinet and head casing. You'll need three pieces cut at a 45° angle as detailed In the cutting list.

I""| 01 Use a 3/s" roundover bit In a handheld router to ease the outside L J edges of both cabinet stiles. The router will stop at the crown, which will be the endpoint of each cut.

[""I Ol The drawer compartment L-LiJ J contains two utility drawers and a file drawer. Hanging hardware for file folders requires the supports at 15'/" wide. This dimension determines the width of the drawer compartment. The outside dimensions, using '/"-thick veneer plywood, will be 183/5"-deep by 183/"-wide by 27"-high. So with that in mind, cut pieces S and T to size and apply wood veneer edge tape to the outside edges. Join the sides to the bottom and top boards using 2" screws and glue. Counter-bore the screw holes on the left hand side and fill with wood plugs. The other side will not be visible.

ri a iattach ttie spacer c,eat the r'9ht fr°ni ed9e °f the

L J-^t J compartment using glue and screws. This spacer will provide clearance when opening the drawers. A piece of K"-thick plywood veneer will work fine. Secure the two top spacers (V) on the underside of the desktop using 1'// screws. These spacers will fill the compartment-to-desktop gap. Install the compartment and anchor it with two 1M" screws through the top and bottom boards.

  • quot; 1 I Cut all the pieces of ^"-thick Baltic birch plywood for L-Lty J the three drawer boxes. Each drawer side requires a ¡¿'-wide by /"-deep rabbet on both inside ends (refer to the assembly instructions in chapter three when building the drawers). Then install the bottom-mount drawer glides so there's a 2" space above the file drawer and a 1" space above each utility drawer box. Use 18"-long full-extension drawer glides for the file drawer and 18" bottom-mounted glides for the utility drawers. (I've Installed 1K"-wide by /s"-thick flat aluminum, 3/s" above the drawer edge, to support the hanging file folders — see chapter ten for more details.)
  • l 1 The three drawer faces are made with 3/"-thick veneer L J-VjF J plywood. All the edges have iron-on veneer tape to hide the plywood core. The bottom drawer face Is installed first and secured flush with the lower edge of the compartment's bottom board. Install the middle face with a X6" space between faces. The simplest way to locate drawer faces is to drill the handle hole and drive a screw through that hole Into the box. This will secure the face until two 1" screws can be installed through the back of the drawer box front board and into the drawer face.

Attach the plywood supports for the keyboard tray to the underside of the desktop with W screws. Glue and screw the plywood pieces to the solid wood verticals forming two right-angle brackets. Round over the front lower corner on the solid wood supports with a belt sander. Secure the brackets to the desktop so the inside faces of the vertical supports are 24X" apart.

I 1 O I Assemble the keyboard tray as shown. The hardwood side pieces and the front L-LC-J J and back strips are secured with glue and screws so they are X' above the plywood veneer panel. Counterbore the screw holes and fill with wood plugs. Use a V> roundover bit in a router to ease all the hardwood support edges. The tray is fitted with a 18" full-extension drawer glide. The side pieces are 18" long, but the tray platform, including the hardwood front and back rails, is 14" deep. This will provide room at the back of the pull-out for wires from the keyboard, monitor and printer. Mount the drawer glide cabinet members as low as possible on the support brackets.

The CPU pull-out is mounted on 16" bottom-mounted drawer glides. Cut the parts and make the two support brackets as shown. Round over the tops of each upright.

Drill a wire passage hole for a grommet at the back of the desktop. Position the hole near the center of the keyboard pull-out tray. Use a large-diameter grommet to accommodate the large printer cable end. Drill an additional hole under the desktop, through the backboard, for a power supply cord.

Install the CPU pull-out brackets with IK" screws driven into the bottom board. Space the inside faces of the vertical members 12" apart. The platform is K" veneer plywood with iron-on taped edges. Mount the platform on standard 16" bottom-mounted drawer glides.

Build a paper storage compartment using %" veneer plywood and apply wood veneer to the front edges. Dado and rabbet the compartment sides and clamp the assembly until the adhesive sets. Edge tape the boards before making the router cuts so the edge veneer will be cut cleanly. This compartment fits between the CPU pull-out and drawer compartment, and does not have to be secured to the armolre carcass.

Before constructing the doors, Install two hinge plate support spacers as shown here, using 1 No. 6 wood screws. These are necessary when using hidden hinges with a standard mounting plate. The cabinet side, where the plates will be attached, must be flush with the inside faces of the stiles. Apply wood veneer edge tape to one long edge of each board. This will be the inside visible edge. Use glue and clamp the supports In place until the adhesive sets.

The upper bookcases are two simple boxes with shelf pin holes drilled for adjustable shelving. You must build two boxes, as one width case cannot be installed in the armolre carcass. Apply wood veneer edge tape to all exposed edges. Join the sides to the bottom and top boards using glue and 2" screws. I Installed the cases with 1 /2"-long screws and decorative washers. I did not glue them In place In case they need to be altered when I purchase new computer equipment.

_[Determining Door Size]_

The required door width is calculated by adding 1" lo the

Interior cabinet dimension. Inside stile lace to Inside stile face is 45K" making the combined door width number 46K". Dividing this value by two (for two doors) means that each door will be 2336" wide. The height is not as critical, but I want the door VA" off the ground and overlapping part of the top rail. For this application my door height will be 67".

The four stiles require a groove in the center of one edge that's 'A" wide by 'A" deep. These cuts are easily made with a properly aligned table saw.

Four of the rails need a ^"-wide by ^"-deep groove in the center of one long edge. The remaining two, which are the center rails for each door, require the groove on both long edges.

All the rails require a tenon centered on each end. This tenon is V* thick by '£ deep. The table saw is the perfect tool when making these tenons. You'll need to make a number of passes on each board but It's a quick and easy task to complete.

Cut the four >i"-thick veneer plywood center panels (AB). Slip the panels into their grooves but don't glue them in place. Apply glue to the tenons on each end rail, install them in the grooves making sure they are flush with the stile ends and clamp each assembly. Pin the tenon with a brad nail on the backside of the door.

Attach the middle rail in the center of two stiles. Use glue on the tenon and pin the joint with a brad nail on the backside of the door. Dry fit the two end rails by clamping them in place temporarily. Use a %" roundover bit In a router to round over the inside frame edges. Be sure the router bit bearing is riding on solid wood below the grooves.

/ am using "good one side" (6IS) 'A" veneer plywood for my center panels. It's less expensive than "good two side," and I plan to cover the backside with bulletin and white boards. If you don't want the backs covered, use the "good two side" material.

Once the door joints are set, round over the outside profile using a ¥s° roundover bit.

|Q "1 1 Drill 35mm-diameter holes, from the L5-^ J-J door edge, for the hidden hinges. Each door will use three 170° hinges. The doors can be mounted using the same procedures as in chapter five. However, you must use standard 100° to 120° hinges when using this mounting procedure. Once correctly located, they can be replaced with the 170° hardware. Attach the mounting plates with va" screws when the door is held 1a" above the floor.

The backs of each door can be fitted with various materials In the center panel area. On one door I've Installed a /"-thick cork bulletin board secured with mirror clips for easy removal and replacement. Remember to drill pilot holes for the screws, as you will be installing them near the frame edges.

Another alternative for door backs Is /"-thick white board. It makes a great note board for those telephone calls and meeting reminders. I found that common storm window clips made of plastic worked well to hold the panel. It is also easily removed when I want to change boards.

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