Office Bookcase

1

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There's always a need for extra book storage in the office. Although we depend heavily on computers, we still require those invaluable reference books.

I made this project using oak veneer plywood and solid woods. The shelves are all adjustable, and I've used a little different technique for the supports in place of the usual holes. These metal shelf standards are installed in a groove, are capable of handling heavy loads and are avail able in a number of finishes. 1 used white so it would be easier to see in the photographs; however, gold might be more suitable with the natural clear polyurethane that I've applied. The choice is up to you but; is often determined by the final color of the bookcase. One note: Purchase your shelf standards before cutting the grooves. There are size variations depending on the manufacturer, and you want to be sure the cut is correct.

1/4' -wide by 21ö"-deep rabbet for back i|rmv-s ror shell standards

Top B

Top Rail E

Adjustable Shelf K

Shelf Strip L

She:r Standard

Top Tr:rr J

St lie I

bottom Shelf Strip F

Bottom 3

Cutting List • Office Bookcase

ref.

qty.

part

material

A

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

B

2

Top and bottom

Oak veneer ply

C

1

Back

Oak veneer ply

D

2

Stiles

Solid wood

E

1

Top rail

Solid wood

F

1

Bottom shelf strip

Solid wood

G

1

Front baseboard

Solid wood

H

2

Side baseboards

Solid wood

J

T

Top trim

Solid wood

K

4

Shelves

Oak veneer ply

L

4

Shelf strips

Solid wood

thick

width

length

comments

3%

11%

78

3%

11%

313%

14

32%

753%

3%

1%

78

3%

3%

30%

3%

VA

30%

3%

3

343%

Angle cut on both ends

lA

3

13%

Angle cut on front end

*

*

*

Depends on style chosen

3%

10%

31%

3%

VA

31%

Glue Screws

Shelf standard Adjustable shelf pins Biscuits or dowels

Metric Cutting List • Office Bookcase

ref.

qty.

part

material

A

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

B

2

Top and bottom

Oak veneer ply

C

1

Back

Oak veneer ply

D

2

Stiles

Solid wood

E

1

Top rail

Solid wood

F

1

Bottom shelf strip

Solid wood

G

1

Front baseboard

Solid wood

H

2

Side baseboards

Solid wood

J

7'

Top trim

Solid wood

K

4

Shelves

Oak veneer ply

L

4

Shelf strips

Solid wood

thick

width

length

comments

19

301

1981

19

301

806

6

826

1924

19

38

1981

19

89

768

19

38

768

19

76

883

Angle cut on both ends

19

76

343

Angle cut on front end

*

*

*

Depends on style chosen

19

276

800

19

38

800

mEach side (A) requires a rabbet on the rear inside face that's wide TO 1 The she" standards should be cut 78" long. Install them In the by deep. They also need two grooves 1" in from the edges, for the L^ J grooves and use the small nails provided to secure the standards, shelf standards.

I/I 1 l~lse 9lue ancl ^ nails t0 attach the backboard. Take a little extra time L^ J to cut the back accurately because a squarely cut back will properly align the bookcase carcass.

Attach the two sides to the top board with glue and 2" screws (it should be flush with the upper ends of the sides). Drive the screws through the outside face on the side panels, as they will be covered with trim. Attach the bottom board In the same way, aligning its top surface 3" above the bottom ends of the sides. The top and bottom boards should be flush with the side boards' front edges.

I/I 1 l~lse 9lue ancl ^ nails t0 attach the backboard. Take a little extra time L^ J to cut the back accurately because a squarely cut back will properly align the bookcase carcass.

Attach the stiles flush with the outside face of each side board. There are a number of methods you can use to attach the stiles. Glue and clamps, glue with biscuits, or simply glue and face nailing with finishing nails are all acceptable. I used the glue-and-face-nail method and filled the nail holes with colored wood filler to match my final finish. Install one stile at this time. Attach the other side after the upper rail is secured.

The upper rail Is installed with biscuits into the side of each stile. Additionally, apply glue to the edge of the carcass top board and face nail the rail. After the rail is secured, install the remaining stile.

  • Adding Some Interest]
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  • a-a. jas&BSiSSi-■ ■ - tnrsiasstliuiasaSiKsf

You can add a little interest and change Ihe appearance of your bookcase by cutting flutes In the stile laces. A V-bit installed in a router can create an interesting pattern. The cut depth controls flute width.

m Attach the hardwood strip (F) to the front edge of the bottom shelf. This will extend the bottom shelf making It flush with the stile faces. Glue and nail the strip In place and don't be concerned about filling the nail head holes as they will be covered by the base trim.

The base trim measurements in the cutting list are taken at the longest point of the 45° angle cuts. The top edge of the trim is decorated with a cove bit in a router. Attach the baseboards with glue and VA" screws on the backside. These trim boards should be installed flush with the top surface of the bottom board.

Before installing the top trim, round over the inside edges of the two stiles and top rail with a V» roundover bit. The router base plate will be stopped by the base trim and determines the point at which the roundover stops on each stile.

[Working with Mouldings]

The top moulding can be purchased or made with a router bit. There are dozens of possible patterns. II you make a lot of trim moulding tor your projects, a moulding head cutter tor the table saw, such as the Magic Molder Irom LRH Enlerprises Inc., Is a worthwhile inveslmenl.

[Working with Mouldings]

The top moulding can be purchased or made with a router bit. There are dozens of possible patterns. II you make a lot of trim moulding tor your projects, a moulding head cutter tor the table saw, such as the Magic Molder Irom LRH Enlerprises Inc., Is a worthwhile inveslmenl.

You'll get "cleaner"-looklng corners on trim boards, with decorative router cuts, by routering the design patterns before mitering the corners. This technique prevents routering mistakes when trying to cut a pattern near a mitered end.

[1 Al Cut the three pieces of top trim moulding at 45°. Use L-l-^-' J the dimensions in the cutting list as a guide — verify the measurements on your bookcase before cutting the trim to size. Use glue and nails to attach the moulding.

Y~t Ol Cut the four shelf boards (K). The front trim pieces (L) for the L-L^J shelves will make them appear thicker and add a great deal of strength to the boards. Use glue and nails or biscuits to attach the edges. Round over the top and bottom with a /" roundover bit.

jsiotes

Y~t Ol Cut the four shelf boards (K). The front trim pieces (L) for the L-L^J shelves will make them appear thicker and add a great deal of strength to the boards. Use glue and nails or biscuits to attach the edges. Round over the top and bottom with a /" roundover bit.

1 1 Before standing the bookcase upright, round over the L-LJ-J outside edges of both stiles. Use a %" roundover bit In a router. The upper and lower trim boards will stop the router travel and determine the cut length.

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I've finished my bookcase with three coals of semi-gloss polyurelhane. The first coat was cut with 10 percent mineral spirits and sanded with 320-grit papers. The final full-strergth coat was rubbed with paste wax and extra- fine steel woof

The design oplions for Ihls project are numerous. I've mentioned a lew with regards to trim style and fluted stiles. But there are the more common changes such as width and height variations to suit your needs. If you plan on loading Ihe shelves with extra-heavy items, add a hardwood strip on the back edge.

Veneer plywood Is an excellent choice for this project because of its strength. MDF and solid wood panels are also worth considering.

This bookcase is a simple project and will be one ol the most appreciated in your home office.

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