Info

52 GP grade

483 483 457

29 47 7

Cut the two sides (A), and the top and bottom boards (B). Apply iron-on wood veneer edge tape to one long side on each of the four boards.

Drill holes on the Inside face of each side panel for the adjustable shelf pins. You can make a simple jig such as the one shown in the photograph or mark the holes and use a drill press. I spaced my holes Vi" apart but any spacing is acceptable.

\A 1 Install the Inset back with two screws on each edge. Its L a J back face should be set flush with the back edge of the top, bottom and side boards.

Join the four baseboards with 45° angled cuts at each corner. Use glue and nails to secure the four joints. The outside dimension of the base frame should be 8" deep by 23" long. Attach the frame to the bottom board of the bookcase with 1 H"-long screws In counterbored holes. The base frame Is attached so it's equally spaced on all four sides.

\A 1 Install the Inset back with two screws on each edge. Its L a J back face should be set flush with the back edge of the top, bottom and side boards.

Wood veneer edge tape comes in a number of widths and lengths. The simplest type to apply is the pre-glued material that is heat activated with an iron. I'm using pine veneer, which trims cleanly with a double-edged trimmer. However, wide-grained woods such as oak should be trimmed with a flush-trim bit in a router.

The sides are joined to the top and bottom boards. The joint can be made using glue In combination with biscuits, dowels or screws. I have decided to use only decorative assembly screws for easy dismantling and transportation. This type of hardware comes in many forms, such as the big cap screws I'm using, as well as screws with washers. Be sure the hardware you use Is designed for PB joinery if that's the material you plan to use. And, always drill the proper size pilot hole for that fastener to achieve maximum hold.

m Apply wood veneer tape to both long edges of the backboard. Secure the backboard to the cabinet so its edges are flush with the top, bottom and both side boards.

Cut the two adjustable shelf boards (D). Apply wood veneer to one long edge on each board. Then prepare the two side panels (G) and the three fixed shelves (J) by applying wood veneer edge tape to one long edge on each side board and one short edge on each of the fixed shelves. The top fixed shelf is installed flush with the top end of the side boards as shown here, and the bottom fixed shelf with the bottom ends. The middle fixed shelf is attached so its top surface Is 24" from the bottom ends of each side panel.

Cut all the drawer parts to size following the dimensions given in the cutting list. Refer to chapter three for drawer-building procedures.

Join the four baseboards with 45° angled cuts at each corner. Use glue and nails to secure the four joints. The outside dimension of the base frame should be 16" wide by 20'A" deep. Attach the frame to the bottom board of the printer tower with 1tf'-long screws in counterbored holes. The base frame is attached so It's equally spaced on all four sides.

The printer tower top is made from %"-thick veneer PB and wood veneer edge tape. Slightly round the front corners of the top with a belt sander. Apply the wood veneer tape with a hot iron. The heat will soften the veneer tape, allowing it to be formed around each front corner, creating a seamless band on the front and too side edges. Then align the top flush with the cabinet back and both side boards. It will overhang in front by W. Use four 1M"-long screws to secure the top from inside the cabinet.

Cut the three drawer faces to size as shown in the cutting list. Apply wood veneer edge tape to all the face edges. Install the three drawer faces with a X," space between each. The bottom face Is flush with the underside of the bottom fixed shelf. Refer to chapter three for Installation tips.

_[Calculating Door Widths]_

You can easily calculate the exact width ol the door or doors you'll need when using full-overlay hidden hinges. Add 1" to the inside width of the cabinet. That will be your required door size. If you need two doors, simply divide lhat number by Iwo. For example, a 24"-wide frameless-style cabinet, built with =/"-thick sheet goods, has an Inside dimension of 22/" (24" minus the thickness of both sides). By applying the 1" rule, I'll need one door 23/" wide or two doors each 11/' wide.

The same rule is used for face-frame cabinets as well. Remember to measure the smallest Inside dimension. In the case of face-frame cabinels, the dimension is taken from inside stile (vertical lace-lrame member) face to inside stile lace. Then, add 1" and divide by 2 il you need two doors.

Build the laminate wood-edge desktop following the Instructions detailed In chapter two. Use the dimensions shown in the cutting list for this project.

The door Is made from %"-thick veneer PB. All four edges must have veneer tape applied. Two 35mm holes must be drilled In the door to accept the hidden hinges. They are usually placed 4" from each end and 3/s" back from the door edge. A hinge-boring bit In a drill press Is the best way to form these holes.

To Install these hinges perfectly every time, first secure the hinges to the door with their mounting plates attached (use a square to align the hinges at right angles to the door edge). Next, hold the door in its normally open position with a ^"-thick spacing stick between the door edge and cabinet face. Drive 5/8"-long screws through the hinge plate and into the cabinet side on both hinges. Once each hinge plate Is secured with two screws, detach the hinge from its plate and Install the remaining screws. Attach the door and adjust if necessary. I'm using two 107° Blum full-overlay hinges on my door.

Attach the top to the bookcase end with three 1M"-long screws. Secure the other end to the printer tower side with screws through the inside of the cabinet. Verify that the top is level. The top surface should be 30/6" above the floor.

The CPU stand Is built using %" edge-taped veneer PB and two solid wood cleats. Use three screws to attach the boards, and secure the cleats with glue and screws. The cleats should have the outside corners rounded over with a belt sander to avoid injuries if someone bumps against them. One cleat is attached on the top outside face and the other on the bottom board's outside edge.

Secure the CPU shelf to the backside of the bookcase and underside of the desktop. Use three 1K'-long screws through each cleat.

JMotes

["I ryl prepare the hutch boards by applying wood veneer edge tape to all front and top edges. Tape L-L ' J all the edges on the backboard, as they will be visible. Secure the sides to horizontal shelves using decorative screws. The lower horizontal shelf's bottom edge should be 8" below each side's top edge. The upper shelf will be 514" above to leave the proper clearance for both vertical dividers. The backboard is attached flush with the underside of the lower horizontal shelf and even with the sides' top edges. All of the boards can be Installed with decorative screws. Divide the shelf Into three equal spaces and Install the vertical dividers. The hutch can be attached to the tower side with screws through the underside of the desktop on the right-hand side.

I've made my workstallon using veneer PB. However, any sheet material Is acceptable — MDF Is a good low-cost alternative It you plan lo paini the projecl. Or solid wood panels can be used If you want to avoid applying the wood edge tape.

The hutch is Ideally suited to solid wood construction. Three 8' lengths of 1x8 lumber will be more than enough material to complete this part of the project.

Drill the cable hole lor Ihe monitor near the right-hand side of the desktop. Installing the monitor there will leave the desk space In front of the seal open for paperwork.

You can modify the tower by building a file drawer In place ol two utility drawers. Add adjustable shelves to the cabinet space. The hutch can be modified to suit a particular storage requirement Or the desktop can be wider so a storage utility module can be Installed In place of the bookcase end. This project can be customized to suit your needs.

A commercial plastic pull-out tray Is the simplest solution for the keyboard. They're Inexpensive, rugged and easy to install. You can also purchase hole grommets for the monitor cables.

executive

Work Center

The unique, but simple to build, executive work center has a few hidden design options that will suit almost anyone's needs. The frame-and-panel-style desk has wood compartments that can be fully customized. If you prefer a file drawer in place of the computer processing unit (CPU) cabinet, simply build a different sized box to attach to the desk. The basic desk style remains even though the drawer or door compartments are different.

I've used solid wood legs, /¡"-thick veneer plywood and a solid wood glued-up top. I've also opted to use a full thick back on the hutch as well as all the panels. It's a little more expensive, but it's money well invested.

The panel to leg joints give this desk added strength and durability. The full %"-thick grooves provide more glue surface and are further strengthened with 2" wood screws.

Moulding Strip -

Hi.,tch Side LL

Hi.,tch Side LL

Hutch Side ..L

/-rtioal Divider

Vertical Dividers QQ

Kutc'i / Desktop E

I5ackbcard KK,

/-rtioal Divider

Vertical Dividers QQ

Side FT

Horizontal Shelf TT Horizontal Shelves SS

Return S..pport Cleat J

Kutc'i / Desktop E

I5ackbcard KK,

Side FT

Horizontal Shelf TT Horizontal Shelves SS

Return S..pport Cleat J

Drawer Face CC

Cutting List • Executive Work Center

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICK

WIDTH

LENG

A

4

Desk legs

Solid oak

m

VA

29A

B

2

Desk side panels

Oak veneer ply

%

23

25A

C

1

Desk back panel

Oak veneer ply

%

23

61 ¡4

D

2

Rear corner braces

Solid oak

VA

8

E

1

Desktop

Solid oak

34

30

66

F

1

Back build-up strip

Solid oak

%

%

64 'A

G

2

Side build-up strips

Solid oak

34

3A

30

H

1

Front build-up strip

Solid oak

54

34

44A

J

1

Return support cleat

Solid oak

34

VA

20

K

2

CPU sides

Oak veneer ply

3A

18

21

L

1

CPU top

Oak veneer ply

34

18

12

M

1

CPU bottom

Oak veneer ply

~'A

18

12

N

2

CPU top cleats

Oak veneer ply

%

1i<

13

P

1

CPU side cleat

Oak veneer ply

%

VA

21

Q

1

CPU door

Oak veneer ply

34

13

20'A

R

3

Return legs

Solid oak

VA

1 %

29X

S

1

Return end panels

Oak veneer ply

¥s

23

17

T

1

Return back panel

Oak veneer ply

34

23

37 a

U

1

Return top

Solid oak

'A

2VA

42

V

2

Side build-up strips

Solid oak

34

%

42

w

1

End build-up strip

Solid oak

34

34

20

Drawer

Compartment & Drawers

X

2

Compartment sides

Oak veneer ply

3A

18

21

Y

1

Compartment top

Oak veneer ply

34

18

10

Z

1

Compartment bottom

Oak veneer ply

34

18

10

AA

2

Top cleats

Oak veneer ply

34

VA

1114

BB

1

Side cleat

Oak veneer ply

Ys

VA

21

CC

3

Drawer faces

Oak veneer ply

34

67A

11

DD

4

Drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

A

5A

18

EE

4

Drawer backs & fronts

Baltic birch ply

'A

5A

8A

FF

2

Drawer bottoms

Baltic birch ply

'A

9

18

GG

2

Top drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

'A

4'A

18

HH

2

Top drw. backs & fronts

Baltic birch ply

A

4A

18

JJ

1

Top drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

A

9

18

Hutch & Hutch Divider

KK

1

Backboard

Oak veneer ply

3A

28

64

LL

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

34

11

28

MM

1

Top board

Oak veneer ply

3A

1134

64

KIN

1

Hutch divider top

Oak veneer ply

3A

11

62/2

PP

4

Vertical sides

Oak veneer ply

3A

11

12

QQ

2

Vertical dividers

Oak veneer ply

34

11

11 'A

RR

2

Vertical dividers

Oak veneer ply

3A

6

6

SS

3

Horizontal shelves

Oak veneer ply

3A

11

15

TT

1

Horizontal shelf

Oak veneer ply

34

6

Make from glued-up boards

Edged with solid ¡-f-thick wood strips

Make from glued-up boards

Edged with solid ¡¿"-thick wood strips Hardware and Supplies

Veneer edge

Tape

Screws

Nails

Glue

Biscuits or dowels

Three-quarter extension drawer glides Full-extension drawer glides for the file drawer 107° hidden hinges High-pressure laminate Contact cement Cable hole grommets Commercial CD racks (optional) Pull-out keyboard tray Drawer and door handles Metal brackets

Metrie Cutting List • eaitive Work Centei

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICK

WIDTH

LENGTH

A

4

Desk legs

Solid oak

41

41

743

B

2

Desk side panels

Oak veneer ply

19

584

648

C

1

Desk back panel

Oak veneer ply

19

584

1562

D

2

Rear corner braces

Solid oak

41

41

203

E

1

Desktop

Solid oak

19

762

1676

F

1

Back build-up strip

Solid oak

19

19

1639

G

2

Side build-up strips

Solid oak

19

19

762

H

1

Front build-up strip

Solid oak

19

19

1131

J

1

Return support cleat

Solid oak

19

38

508

K

2

CPU sides

Oak veneer ply

19

457

533

L

1

CPU top

Oak veneer ply

19

457

305

M

1

CPU bottom

Oak veneer ply

19

457

305

N

2

CPU top cleats

Oak veneer ply

19

38

330

P

1

CPU side cleat

Oak veneer ply

10

38

533

Q

1

CPU door

Oak veneer ply

19

330

530

R

3

Return legs

Solid oak

41

41

743

S

1

Return end panels

Oak veneer ply

19

584

432

T

1

Return back panel

Oak veneer ply

19

584

953

U

1

Return top

Solid oak

19

546

1067

V

2

Side build-up strips

Solid oak

19

19

1067

w

1

End build-up strip

Solid oak

19

19

508

Drawer

Compartment & Drawers

X

2

Compartment sides

Oak veneer ply

19

457

533

Y

1

Compartment top

Oak veneer ply

19

457

254

Z

1

Compartment bottom

Oak veneer ply

19

457

254

AA

2

Top cleats

Oak veneer ply

19

38

292

BB

1

Side cleat

Oak veneer ply

10

38

533

CC

3

Drawer faces

Oak veneer ply

19

174

279

DD

4

Drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

13

140

457

EE

4

Drawer backs & fronts

Baltic birch ply

13

140

216

FF

2

Drawer bottoms

Baltic birch ply

13

229

457

GG

2

Top drawer sides

Baltic birch ply

13

115

457

HH

2

Top drw. backs & fronts

Baltic birch ply

13

115

457

JJ

1

Top drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

13

229

457

Hutch & Hutch Divider

KK

1

Backboard

Oak veneer ply

19

711

1626

LL

2

Sides

Oak veneer ply

19

279

711

MM

1

Top board

Oak veneer ply

19

298

1626

NN

1

Hutch divider top

Oak veneer ply

19

279

1588

PP

4

Vertical sides

Oak veneer ply

19

279

305

QQ

2

Vertical dividers

Oak veneer ply

19

279

285

RR

2

Vertical dividers

Oak veneer ply

19

152

152

SS

3

Horizontal shelves

Oak veneer ply

19

279

381

TT

1

Horizontal shelf

Oak veneer ply

19

152

Make from glued-up boards

Edged with solid 13mm-thick wood strips

Make from glued-up boards

Edged with solid 13mm-thick wood strips

COMMENTS

Make from glued-up boards

Edged with solid 13mm-thick wood strips

Make from glued-up boards

Edged with solid 13mm-thick wood strips

["O "I Use a '/a roundover bit in a router table to soften the vertical edges on L^ J all of the legs. Now is an ideal time to complete the sanding on the legs as the task will be much more difficult after the panels are installed.

["O "I Use a '/a roundover bit in a router table to soften the vertical edges on L^ J all of the legs. Now is an ideal time to complete the sanding on the legs as the task will be much more difficult after the panels are installed.

Install the back panel joining the two desk side assemblies. The panel is secured in the second groove on each back leg and held with glue and screws. Insert these screws, through the leg face opposite the end edges, 214" from the top and bottom of the back panel on both ends.

mCut the four legs of the desk to size. Two of the legs require a groove that's /"-wide by %"-deep by 23"-long on one face measured from the top of the legs. The other two require two grooves of the same size on two adjoining faces of each leg. All the grooves are centered on the leg faces. The grooves are formed with a /"-wide straight router bit on a router table. The cut will have a rounded bottom requiring each to be squared so the panels will fit properly.

Attach the side panels to the legs. One double-grooved back leg is at the end of each side panel. Be careful to orient the legs properly so they will receive the back panel. Secure the panels using glue and 2" screws in counterbored holes (they will be filled with wood plugs, through the side opposite each panel edge). Position the screws 2" from the bottom and top edge of each panel.

The legs for the desk and return are prepared in the same manner. Also, note that the panels for both pieces are the same height. To save time and eliminate duplicate set-ups, cut the desk and return legs, as well as the panels, at the same time.

Always drill a pilot hole for the screw. The screw will cut threads for maximum hold. Without pilot holes the screw shaft is acting like a wedge and could split the material.

f/2 1 Join enough solid wood boards to form a top that measures K-thick L^ J by 30"-deep by 66"-wide. Joint the edges and use biscuits to create the top. I am using six 1x6 boards to build my top, with biscuits 6" apart.

The two rear corner braces are attached with glue and screws in plugged holes. Before cutting the 45° angle on each end, round over all the edges with a V bit in a router. Align the sides to the back board at 90° with a carpenter's square before securing the braces. Use Vff-long screws.

f/2 1 Join enough solid wood boards to form a top that measures K-thick L^ J by 30"-deep by 66"-wide. Joint the edges and use biscuits to create the top. I am using six 1x6 boards to build my top, with biscuits 6" apart.

You can create acceptable edges for joining without a jointer. The straight edges can be cut on a table saw as long as the saw is properly aligned. Use the factory edge and cut the opposite side, reducing the width by 'As". Reverse the board so the cut edge is against the saw fence, and cut another Ac" off the opposite side. It may be necessary to make more than two cuts but you will achieve an edge that can be joined providing the saw is well-tuned and accurately aligned. Or, if you don't have a biscuit cutter, simple edge-to-edge gluing will also yield an acceptable result. Don't over-tighten the clamps as this will force all the glue out and starve the joint.

m Attach right-angle metal brackets every 6" along the back and two sides of the desk frame. These will be used to secure the top.

Once the glued-up top is properly set, trim it to the correct finished size. Install %" square build-up strips on the underside, as detailed in the drawing, with glue and finishing nails. The strips are installed flush with the outside edges of the desktop. The edge will be rounded over once the return is attached.

Attach the top to the desk base using screws through the angle brackets. The top should overhang the legs by 1" on all faces. Don't glue the top in place. This will allow it to move a little during humidity level changes.

A situation called "bridging" can occur when joining two boards with screws. The threads will run to their ends before both boards are joined tightly leaving a gap in between both. To eliminate this problem, drill a hole larger than the screw diameter in the piece closest to the screw head. The screw will simply rotate in that piece without creating a thread and draw the pieces tightly together. You'll always gel tight joints using this technique. Drill larger holes in the return cleat to avoid bridging between the cleat and tops.

Cut and install the return support cleat. It should extend V" past the front edge of the desktop. Use 1V" screws to secure the cleat.

Install the CPU compartment, aligning its front edge flush with the face of the desk leg. Use 2"-long screws into the leg, 1 V-i' screws at the back into the side panel, and 2" screws through the top of the compartment Into the underside of the desktop. Locate the front screws, which are driven Into the leg, 4" on center from the top and bottom of the compartment. The mounting plate of the door hinge will hide them.

Apply iron-on wood veneer edge tape to all four front edges of the CPU compartment boards. Join the two sides (K) to the top and bottom boards (L and M) as shown In the illustration. Use glue and 2" screws in counterbored holes that are filled with wood plugs.

[-I Attach the two top cleats on the CPU LJ-^J compartment with glue and finishing nails. The side cleat is Ys" thick and will fill the gap between the desk leg and side panel. Secure it with glue and finishing nails on the rear left side of the compartment.

rirl Drill two 35mm holes on the back of L-L^ J the door that are 4" on center from the top and bottom edges. Install two 110° full-overlay hidden hinges in the holes with the mounting plates attached. Use a /8"-thick spacer between the door edge, in its normally open position, and the compartment edge. Hold the door flush with the underside surface of the bottom board and drive screws into the mounting plates (this technique will accurately locate your door).

Cut a piece of veneer plywood measuring 12" x 19%". Glue and nail K'-thick by H"-high hardwood strips to all edges. Finally, sand and round over the front face edges with a %" router bit. Note: The door for the CPU compartment is made with X' veneer plywood and hardwood edge strips. The door width is found by measuring the inside dimension of the compartment and adding 1", The inside dimension is 12", therefore our door width must be 13". The door height for this application covers the top and bottom board edges less Vs for desktop clearance. Our finished height is 20%". These rules apply when using full-overlay hidden hinges.

Cut the three return legs, and form one groove in two of the legs and two on the third leg. Follow the same procedures as detailed in step one for the desk legs. Cut the side and rear return panels and attach them in the same way the desk panels were installed.

The solid wood return top is made following the same steps performed during the desktop construction. However, its finished size is 2V/i deep by 42" long.

  • 1 Q] Attach A" square build-up strips to the underside of the return top. L J-O J These are again installed with glue and nails. The return end with one leg Is left open so It can be secured to the return cleat on the desk.
  • t Q 1 The top Is attached to the return base with right-angle brackets. L J Then, the return is connected to the desk with screws through the return cleat. Sand the tops smooth and round over the five outside corners to prevent injury. Use a small round object about 1!<<" in diameter to form identical arcs on each corner. Next, soften the sharp corners with a belt sander.

["Of^l Use a -/; roundover bit in a router to remove the sharp edges on L^J both the desk and return top. Round over the bottom and top edges.

Build the drawer compartment following the same procedures as detailed for the CPU compartment. This compartment is a different size and the side cleat Is on the right. The drawer compartment is also mounted flush with the front face of the return leg.

["Of^l Use a -/; roundover bit in a router to remove the sharp edges on L^J both the desk and return top. Round over the bottom and top edges.

The drawers are made with >f-thick Baltic birch plywood. Cut all the parts to size as detailed in the cutting list. Assemble the drawers following the procedures outlined in chapter three. This compartment will hold two 6"-high drawers and one top drawer that is 5" high. Space the 18"-long bottom-mount drawer glides 7" apart beginning at the bottom.

The drawers are made with >f-thick Baltic birch plywood. Cut all the parts to size as detailed in the cutting list. Assemble the drawers following the procedures outlined in chapter three. This compartment will hold two 6"-high drawers and one top drawer that is 5" high. Space the 18"-long bottom-mount drawer glides 7" apart beginning at the bottom.

The drawer faces are made to match the CPU door. Begin with three pieces of 3/"-thick veneer plywood 5 / high by 10" wide. Attach / -high by 3/'-thick strips on all door edges. Fill the nail holes, sand and round over the front face edges. Install the drawer faces on the boxes with two 1 "-long screws through the inside into the drawer face back. Start installing the faces from the bottom; make sure the bottom face is flush with the lower edge of the bottom board. Space the drawer faces '/," apart.

Use glue and 2" screws in counterbored holes to secure the top board (MM) to the sides and back. Fill the holes with wood plugs. The board edges do not have to be covered because a moulding strip will hide them.

The backboards for the hutch's two side edges, which are 28" high, require wood veneer edge tape. The side boards need a 28"-high edge on each covered with veneer. These will be the front edges. Attach the hutch backboard to the side boards with glue and 2" screws. My hutch will be against a wall so the screw heads do not need to be covered.

Install a moulding strip on the front and two side top edges. Choose any moulding that's suitable as long as it's at least 'A" high. Miter the corners at 45° and secure the strip with glue and finishing nails

O I finished my project with three coats of ofl-

based polyurethane. After the final coat I applied

  • clear paste wax with extra-fine sleel wool. That
  • process made the top smooth and added a little
  • J extra protection to the working surface, i/i

The desk and return are designed lo accept q "compartments" for drawers, cabinets with t _rl shelves, or other specialized spaces. If you need a tile drawer, build the compartment to meet your size requiremenls. The CPU section can be fitted with adjustable shelves. The design is versatile and can be altered to meet almost anyone's needs The comparlmenl and divider section Is another module that can easily be altered lo solve your storage problems. Add or remove dividers lo accommodate books, software or other documents that must be retrieved many times a day.

I used %"-thlck veneer plywood. It Is an expensive sheet material. But the plywood core Is strong and I feel it's well worlh Ihe added cost. This work center will be under heavy use and should be built lo provide many years ol service.

Oak veneer plywood was my choice but there are many olher veneer plywoods on the market. If you wanl to lower the cost, try using MDF for the panels and poplar for the legs. They are perfect materials to paint.

Everyone has dilferent requirements to make the workday easier. This projecl was designed so it could be customized to meet those specialized needs.

The divider and compartment section is built as a unit and installed in the hutch. If you wish to use the same design as shown here, cut all the parts to size as detailed in the cutting list. Apply wood veneer edge tape to all exposed edges before joining the boards. The section is assembled using simple butt joints with glue and 2" screws. Remember to counterbore any screw head that will be visible so it can be hidden with a wood plug.

Put the divider section into the hutch and secure with 1"-long screws through the top and sides. Counterbore the holes and fill with a wood plug.

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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