Dia Storage Center

This project is designed t.o hold and organize all of your media — including computer disks, CDs, audio tapes and videotapes. There is a section for books with an adjustable shelf and two drawers for all the other media forms. The drawers have movable partitions that will allow you to customize each one to your specific needs. I will be using the top drawer for CD storage because most of the data and software I buy is in this form.

This storage center will hold a great deal of material and should meet the most demanding requirements. But if you do run out of space, build another unit. It's not that expensive and is well worth the investment. Ail your reference data in one location, easily indexed and accessible, will save you money and, more importantly, valuable time.

15/e1

Back Lm Top View

Front Leg Top View

1/4"-deep by 1/2"-wide Pabbet.

Drawer Box Front & Back L

Drawer Box Side K

Drawer Case Side J

Drawer Front G

Dividers N

Drawer Box Bottom M

1/4" Slots For 'Adjustable Dividers

Back Panel C

Edge Moulding

Drawer Case Side J

Shelf Edge Boards F

Drawer Front G

Edge Moulding

Back Panel C

Side Panel B

Shelf Edge Boards F

1/4"-deep by 1/2"-wide Pabbet.

Drawer Case Side J

Dividers N

Drawer Box Bottom M

1/4" Slots For 'Adjustable Dividers

Drawer Case Side J

Drawer Box Front & Back L

Drawer Box Side K

Cutting List • Media Storage Center

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

COMMENTS

A

4

Legs

Solid oak

w

1%

473%

B

2

Side panels

Oak veneer ply

%

IVA

42

C

1

Back panel

Oak veneer ply

A

43

42

D

1

Top

Oak veneer ply

%

13%

47%

E

1

Shelf

Oak veneer ply

%

11

41%8

F

2

Shelf edge boards

Solid oak

3%

VA

417%

G

2

Drawer fronts

Oak veneer ply

3%

8

413%

With edge banding

1

Edge moulding

Solid oak

3A

34

8 feet

Jrawer Case & Drawer Boxes

H

4

Top and bottom boards

Oak veneer ply

3A

12%

42

Cut at 45°

J

4

Sides

Oak veneer ply

3A

12%

8%

Cut at 45°

K

4

Drawer box sides

Baltic birch ply

'A

5

12

L

4

Fronts and backs

Baltic birch ply

'A

5

39

M

2

Drawer box bottoms

Baltic birch ply

'A

12

39%

N

10

Dividers

Baltic birch ply

•A

5

11

Screws

Nails

Glue

Biscuits or dowels

Three-quarter extension drawer glides 107° hidden hinges Commercial CD racks (optional) Drawer and door handles

Metric Cutting List • Media Storage Center

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

COMMENTS

A

4

Legs

Solid oak

41

41

1213

B

2

Side panels

Oak veneer ply

19

298

1067

C

1

Back panel

Oak veneer ply

6

1092

1067

D

1

Top

Oak veneer ply

19

343

1200

E

1

Shelf

Oak veneer ply

19

279

1063

F

2

Shelf edge boards

Solid oak

19

38

1063

G

2

Drawer fronts

Oak veneer ply

19

203

1060

With edge banding

1

Edge moulding

Solid oak

19

19

2438

drawer Case & Drawer

Boxes

H

4

Top and bottom boards

Oak veneer ply

19

315

1067

Cut at 45°

J

4

Sides

Oak veneer ply

19

315

216

Cut at 45°

K

4

Drawer box sides

Baltic birch ply

13

127

305

L

4

Fronts and backs

Baltic birch ply

13

127

991

M

2

Drawer box bottoms

Baltic birch ply

13

305

1004

N

10

Dividers

Baltic birch ply

13

127

279

Cut the side panels (B) and drill holes tor the adjustable shelf pins. The holes are spaced about 1K" apart and are 1" in from each side. Two rows of holes per panel are required. Begin the rows of holes 10" from the top and bottom of each panel on the inside face.

Assemble both sides with glue and clamps. The panels are installed in the K"-square rabbet and should be flush with the inside lace of each leg set. Be certain the pin holes are aligned correctly and the back panel rabbets are located properly. Drive VA" screws through the panel, into each leg, at the top and bottom.

m Prepare the four legs by cutting them to length. Each leg needs a wide by J/"-deep rabbet (that's 42" long measured from the top) formed on one corner. These rabbets will receive the side panels so orient them properly as two mirror-image sets. Check the drawing and mark the legs before cutting the rabbet to avoid mistakes. Use a3/" straight-cutting router bit. Once the cut has been completed, square the bottom with a chisel.

The back legs require a /"-deep by /"-wide by 42"-long second rabbet measured from the top of the leg cut to receive the V" backboard.

You can also cut rabbets on a table saw with two right-angle cuts. Stop short of making a lull-length cut because the curve of the blade will run past your stop line. Use a sharp chisel to remove the remaining waste and complete the rabbet.

When the adhesive has set, sand both assemblies and round over the exposed corners of each leg. Use a %" roundover bit in a router.

I Square cut all the drawer case pieces a little longer than required. L^ J Apply wood veneer edge tape to the front edge of all eight boards. Then cut both ends at 45° to the dimension detailed in the cutting list. You will be cutting the edge tape at the same time and the result will be a clean angled edge. Note that all drawer case measurements given are at the longest part of the miter.

m Assemble both cases with glue on the miters and 2" screws. It's always good practice to drill a pilot hole for the screws. Two screws per joint will lock them securely. They won't be seen, so we don't have to cover the screw heads.

The top (D) is attached with glue and eight 1 screws. Drive the screws through the underside of the upper case top board.

The back panel (C) is Installed In the rabbets. Apply glue to the rabbets as well as the back edges of each case and nail the panel In place. I saved a little money by using three cutoff panels I had In the shop. I joined the panels along the horizontal boards of each case so the joint wouldn't be seen from the front. You can use a full panel or make use of smaller pieces in your shop.

The top (D) is attached with glue and eight 1 screws. Drive the screws through the underside of the upper case top board.

Attach the two cases to both end assemblies. The upper case Is flush with the top of the legs. And the lower case is flush with the side panel bottom edges. Use glue and 2"-long screws to secure the cases. Drive the screws through the Inside face of each side board into the legs. The cases are Installed V" ahead of the rear face of each leg. This will allow us to fit the backboard in the rabbets, tightly against the back edge of each case.

Till Choose a ^"-wide moulding or make your own, and attach it to the L J- J-J front and both sides of the top. Miter the corners at 45°, securing the moulding with glue and brad nails. Fill the nail holes with wood putty.

Install the bottom using glue and %" brad nails. Remember, an accurately cut bottom board will square the drawer box.

f"| O 1 The overall size of both drawer boxes is 5%"-high by 12"-deep and

J 39%"-wlde, or 1" less in width than the inside dimension of the drawer case. This 1" clearance Is needed for the full-extension glides. Cut all the boards for both drawer boxes. The four sides (K) need a %"-deep by V{-wlde rabbet on each inside edge. Build the box by attaching the front and back boards to the side rabbets with glue and brad nails.

Cut the shelf board and the two edge boards (F). Attach the edges on the front and back using glue and biscuits, screws with wood plugs, or nails. Ease the top and bottom corners on the front edge piece with a %" roundover bit. These hardwood edges add strength to this long shelf and increase its load capacity.

Form the two slots In each drawer box with a '/" straight router bit. The slots run parallel to the front and back board. Locate them VA" In from the front and back, and end them 3" from the side boards.

Drill two pilot holes in the bottom of each divider to match the slot spacing. Use 1K" screws and washers to secure the dividers. They can be positioned, or moved at a later date, to meet your specific requirements.

The drawers are installed using 12" full-extension drawer glides. Be sure the drawer box is positioned far enough above the drawer case bottom to provide proper clearance for the divider screws.

My drawer fronts, made with K" plywood veneer, have edges covered with wood tape. However, you can use a five-piece face, solid wood, or dress up the plywood veneer face with moulding. Use four 1" screws driven into the back of each drawer face through the box front board.

O I compleled my media storage center by installing solid wood knobs. Three coats of polyurethane, the first coat cut by 10 percenl with Ihinners, and

  • sanding between each coat will protect my project.
  • As I've olten stated in this book, the choice ol materials and finish is a matter
  • M ol personal lasle. Ollen, other furnishings in Ihe room will diclate the choice. t/>

The height ol this project was determined by the media to be stored. q The drawers were designed to hold CDs, and I wanted a bookcase with t 1 shelf height to accommodate large books and binders. The width can be varied to suit your space requirements. Making the cenler narrower isn't a problem; however, if you do need more width, it may be wise to build two units. Drawer and shelf width is at the practical maximum with this design.

Using veneer PB or MDF and paint can reduce Ihe cosl of (his project. The drawer glides can be replaced with standard three-quarter extension glides. However, access to the drawer is improved with the full-extension glides and you'll be pleased you've spent the extra money.

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