[Building A Crosscutting Sled

A crosscutting sled is one of the handiest and safest lable saw accessories you'll ever own. They are simple to build and a real pleasure to use when cutting wide panels.

There are a number of options and safety features that can be added to your crossculling sled. One woodworker painted the blade guard board red as a reminder ol the danger zone near the blade. Some have Installed Plexiglas guards above the saw blade path, and a few others have built a small enclosed box on the back of the sled where the blade is exposed when the cut is complete.

I've seen a few sleds that use steel runners much like those on a miter gauge. That's a great feature and it may be worth looking lor the runners at your local hardware slore.

Finally, if the sled binds, try applying a coat of paste wax to the sled bottom and runners. That should reduce the drag on the table saw top.

Cutting List • Crosscutting Sled Hardware and Suppli

QTY.

PART

THICK

WIDTH

LENGTH

Plywood, 2x4 stock

1

Platform

36

30

Hardwood or metal runners

2

Runners

%

3/s

30

2

Fences

VA

3'A

36

1

Blade guard

VA

3'A

10

Metric

Cutting List

• Crosscutting

Sled

QTY.

PART

THICK

WIDTH

LENGTH

1

Platform

19

914

762

2

Runners

19

10

762

2

Fences

38

89

914

1

Blade guard

38

89

254

Here's the crosscutting sled you'll be building in this demonstration.

Cut the platform to shape, making sure it's accurately sized and square. Then cut the two hardwood runners and test fit them in the table saw miter grooves. A proper fit will allow the runners to run freely with minimal side play. Attach the runners to the platform with 1" screws and glue. Make sure they're properly spaced to match the table saw grooves.

Install the back rail with screws and glue using your saw fence and a framing square to align it at 90° to the fence.

\ A 1 Attach the blade guard centered over the blade on the L^t J back rail. Round over each end of the guard board with a belt sander to eliminate the sharp corners.

Install the front rail following the same procedures.

[Building Raised Panel Doors on a Table Saw]

This is a method that I often use to make great-looking raised panel doors on a table saw. But be carelul, you will be working near an open unguarded blade. The sample door is 13^" wide by 28" high, but It can be made to any dimension.

Use a heavy-duty blade and make small, slow passes with the door panel. Slower passes will give you a finer cut and eliminate a great deal ol final sanding.

The amount you raise the blade lor each pass, as well as the travel across the blade, will depend on the wood used. Hardwood will be a lot more difficult than softwood, so make a few trial passes to gauge your speed and cut depth.

Cutting

List •

Raised Panel Doors

Hardware and Supplii

QTY.

PART

THICK

WIDTH

LENGTH

Hardwood stiles and rails

2

Stiles

y,

2%

28

Glued-up panels

2

Rails

%

2 %

10

Glue

1

Panel

%

9%

24%

Metric Cutting

List • Raised Panel

Doors

QTY. PART

THICK

WIDTH

LENGTH

2 Stiles

19

57

711

2 Ralls

19

57

254

1 Panel

19

251

620

Here's a typical raised panel door like the one you'll build TO 1 Form a tenon that's !4"-thlck by Vf-long centered on both ends of in this demonstration. L^J each rail.

m Prepare the stiles and rails by cutting a groove X"-wide by K"-deep In the middle of one long edge of each piece.

Glue up a number of '/"-thick boards using biscuits or simple edge gluing. Cut the panel to the size detailed in the cutting list. Next, use the table saw miter gauge to attach a board on the saw at a right angle to the blade. The board can be clamped or attached with screws. The straight edge of the board should cross the center of the blade when it's just below the table surface.

Turn on the saw and raise the blade Push the panel blank across the blade, cutting all four edges starting with the ends on each pass. Raise the blade by V>{ on each pass. Take it slow and use a push pad. Slow travel across the blade will yield a fine cut.

Continue making passes on all four edges of the door center panel until the edge Is slightly smaller than Sand the panel to remove all saw marks. Test fit the panel in the stiles and rails until you achieve a snug, but not tight, fit. Assemble the door using glue on the tenons only. Do not glue the panel, as it must float freely to account for expansion and contraction during humidity changes.

file & storage DiaWei Module

These modules can be customized with There are a few rules to follow when any drawer and door size combination, building work centers. Normal desk

They are perfect support for the wood height, is 30" to the top surface and the edged laminate worktop in chapter two. scat is commonly 12" to 18" less than that.

As previously discussed, laminates are If you want a higher worktable, add 6" to available in 4' x 8' and 5' x 12' sheets. You the module height and use 24" stools, can make the perfect custom work center for your home office when you combine the top with two or more of these modules. ___, ,

Divider Strip

Upper C

Baseboard F

Uti iry Drawer

Utility Dr awer 'o\ds L

Bai>sb03rd E

Utility Draiver Front/Baci; M

1/2"-wide solid wood edije

File Drawer Front/Back H

rile Drawer Bottom J

Divider Strip

Baseboard F

Fi e Drawer Front K

Uti iry Drawer

1/2"-wide solid wood edije

Upper C

Utility Draiver Front/Baci; M

rile Drawer Bottom J

File Drawer Front/Back H

Utility Dr awer 'o\ds L

Bai>sb03rd E

Cutting List • FUe & Storage Drawer ModuLe

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

COMMENTS

A

2

Sides

Veneer PB

%

23

27%

B

1

Bottom board

Veneer PB

%

16 %

23

C

1

Upper rail

Veneer PB

7

2

16%

D

1

Backboard

Veneer PB

%

18/s

27%

E

2

Baseboards

Solid wood

VA

17%

Angle cut

F

2

Baseboards

Solid wood

%

VA

22%

Angle cut

:ile Drawer

G

2

Sides

Baltic birch ply

A

8

22

H

2

Front and back

Baltic birch ply

A

8

15A

J

1

Drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

'A

15%

22

K

1

Drawer front

Veneer PB

"As

11

16U

With ^"-wide solid wood edges

Jtility Drawers

L

4

Sides

Baltic birch ply

A

5

22

M

4

Front and back

Baltic birch ply

A

5

15 M

N

2

Drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

•A

15 y.

22

P

1

Drawer front middle

Veneer PB

'As

5A

16%

With ¡^"-wide solid wood edges

R

1

Drawer front top

Veneer PB

"Aw

6 3A

16%

With ^"-wide solid wood edges

Hardware and Supplies

Iron-on veneer Finishing nails File hanging hardware or -thick flat metal

Wood tape 22" three-quarter extension bottom-mount drawer glides Glue

Particleboard 22" full-extension drawer glides Drawer handles

Screws Metal right-angle brackets

Metric Cutting List • File & Storage Drawer Module

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

COMMENTS

A

2

Sides

Veneer PB

18

584

705

B

1

Bottom board

Veneer PB

18

425

584

C

1

Upper rail

Veneer PB

18

51

425

D

1

Backboard

Veneer PB

18

461

705

E

2

Baseboards

Solid wood

19

38

435

Angle cut

F

2

Baseboards

Solid wood

19

38

577

Angle cut

File Drawer

G

2

Sides

Baltic birch ply

13

203

559

H

2

Front and back

Baltic birch ply

13

203

387

J

1

Drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

13

400

559

K

1

Drawer front

Veneer PB

18

279

425

With 13mm-

Utility Drawers

L

4

Sides

Baltic birch ply

13

127

559

M

4

Front and back

Baltic birch ply

13

127

387

N

2

Drawer bottom

Baltic birch ply

13

400

559

P

1

Drawer front middle

Veneer PB

18

140

425

With 13mm-

R

1

Drawer front top

Veneer PB

18

171

425

With 13mm-

Join the sides to the bottom board. The lower surface of the bottom board Is installed flush with the bottom edge of each side. There are a number of joinery options at this point. I'm using biscuits, glue and clamps to attach the three boards. You can use 2" PB screws In pilot holes that are counterbored and filled with wood plugs or dowels and glue.

While the sides are clamped to the bottom board, cut the rail (C) and apply veneer tape to one long edge. This will be the bottom edge of the rail. Use glue and Install the rail so Its top edge is even with the side board top edges. Reinforce the joint with two right-angle brackets that are secured with %" screws.

  • Before You Begin]
  • This project shows you how to build regular storage drawers as well as legal file lolder drawers. The tile drawers are designed to hold hanging file folders, and the normal inside width ot the drawer box is 14%". The drawer should be 8" deep and provide about 11" of clearance so the tiles can be seen and handled.
  • Many of the projects in this book will use a frameless-slyle cabinet When building a lace-lrame style, you would normally cover the cabinet box edges with solid wood. In frameless cabinetry, veneer edge tape Is used to finish the box edges that are exposed. Frameless cablnelry is simple to build and less expensive than lace frame cabinetry. But if constructed properly, It's just as sturdy.
  • Another common element throughout this book will be the use of Baltic birch plywood for the drawer boxes. Sometimes called "cabinet-grade plywood," this >z"-thick material has layers that are void free. The layers are often alternated with a dark/light arrangement and they can be sanded smooth. All that's required is a coat of polyurethane to protect the drawers.

Some species of wood edge tape can be easily trimmed with a sharp knife or double-edge trimmer. The pine I'm using is an example of a close-grained wood that is easily trimmed. Other wood types, such as oak, have a wide grain and tend to "run" in the grain direction and be difficult to trim. For those wood types I use a flush-trim bit in a router.

mCut the two sides and the bottom board. Apply a wood edge pre-glued Iron-on veneer edge tape to the front edge of each board.

I I The base is made using 1x2 solid wood. Join the corners with 45° L^J miters and construct the base frame so It's 14" smaller than the cabinet on all edges. This method will allow the weight to be transferred through the sideboards, onto the solid wood base frame, and then to the floor. Secure the frame with two 1K"-long PB screws through each baseboard, In countersunk holes, and into the bottom board. Use glue to further strengthen the joint.

Attach the backboard (D) using 2"-long PB screws and glue. Apply veneer tape to both long edges prior to Installation. My module will be against the wall, so screws are acceptable. But if the back will be visible, use biscuits or dowels. The screw method can be used, and the heads hidden, by counterbored holes that are filled with wood plugs.

The bottom board (J) Is glued and nailed with 1 'A" finishing nails to form a drawer box.

["/?"] Cut the two drawer sides (G). The ends of both sides require a M"-deep L<JJ by tf'-wide rabbet. Use a router table or a table saw to complete this cut. Join the sides to the front and back boards, In the rabbets, using glue and 1X' finishing nails.

I am using Blum 22" bottom-mount drawer glides for my cabinet. These slides will allow the drawer box to pull out three-quarters of their length. If you need the drawer to pull out of the cabinet fully, use full-extension drawer glides.

Cut the drawer box bottom boards carefully. If they are cut square, the drawer box will have right-angle comers after the bottom is installed.

Follow the manufacturer's installation Instructions when installing the drawer hardware. You can use a framing square to accurately locate the drawer glide position In the cabinet by holding It tightly against the cabinet's front edge.

Build the utility drawers following the same procedures as previously described for the file drawer box.

Attach right-angle brackets to the top of the cabinet with SA" screws. These will be used to secure the worktop.

il Ol Attach ^""high by %"-thick solid wood strips to all edges of the

J drawer faces. Use glue and brad nails to secure the strips. The nail holes can be hidden with wood filler.

As a general rule, drawers are made 1" smaller in width than the cabinet's inside dimension. File drawers need about 3" clearance above the drawer box, and utility drawers require a 1" space.

Drawer faces are normally 1" wider than the drawer opening width. In trameless-style cabinetry, drawer faces are usually spaced 'A" apart. The bottom drawer face covers the bottom board edge, and the top drawer face is made to cover about 'A" of the upper rail.

Sand the wood strips smooth. Round over all four front edges of each face using a %" roundover bit in a handheld router or in a table.

O These tile and utility drawer modules can be • i—

4_l made with any type ol solid wood or sheet

U material. The frameless style Is easy to build

P and relatively Inexpensive when compared to

■M the commercial versions. The lull-back design in makes this unit very sturdy and capable ol q supporting a great deal ol weight. t _ J Drawer sizes can be varied to suit your needs and combination-drawer, over-door or lull-door modules with adjustable shelves can easily be designed and built. I have a 10' wood edge aminated top with four modules in my olfice, which provides me with separate computer and desk stations. There's a lot ol storage lor my liles and otlice supplies, so it is an ideal work area.

Remember the basic height and spacing rules when building these modules. The only issue not discussed was cabinet depth. It you need a deeper cabinet to support a 30" or 36" lop, increase the cabinet and drawer depths. Drawer glides are available in longer lengths lo accommodate those deeper drawers.

My module was finished with three coats ol polyurethane because it's a tough, hard finish. In a busy home office environment, a finish that can withstand some abuse is ideal.

M A 1 The drawer ,aces can be eas'ly and accurately located [__Lt: J following a few simple steps. First purchase the handles or pulls that you plan to use. Drill the handle holes in the drawer faces only. Then use those screw holes to secure the face to the drawer box by driving 2" screws through the drawer face holes into the box. If you are satisfied with the drawer face location, drive two 1"-iong screws through the backside of the front board into the drawer face. Remove the screws in the handle holes, drill completely through the drawer box and install the handles.

/

1 l Many other accessories are available for drawers. I LJ-U J purchased a pencil tray and installed an intermediate divider board to support the tray.

r-1 jrl Install file-hanging hardware that is available at your local stationery store. Or L J you can use the shop-built technique that I will use in chapter ten (see step 16) to provide a track for the file hangers.

desktop

If your desk is anything like mine, it's a or frequently used books. The locked cluttered mess. Vowing to resolve the sit- center cabinet is the perfect place for uat.ion, 1 designed this ultimate desk documents that require secure storage, organizer. With slots for magazines, ref- In tills project, there are a number of erence books and file folders, it's perfect mortise-and-tenon joints to deal with;

for my cluttered ways! Two slide-out placement is critical. But if you're uncom-

t.rays hold pens, paper clips, notes and fortable with this joinery, you could use checkbooks. The center bridge is great simple butt joints and screws, biscuits or for CD storage. The light guard will dowels. This project may appear compli-

shielcl a small fluorescent fixture I plan to catecl, but break it clown into individual install. The right side tower can hold mail steps and you'll discover its simplicity.

Front Moulding N -

Side Moulding M

Tower Dividers J

Bridge Backboard G

Horizontal Bridge Sheff F

Side D

Divider

Shelf B

Shelf B

Tray Front T

Divider

Side A

Horizonta 1

Bridge Shelf F Light Guard H

Horizonta 1

Bridge Shelf F Light Guard H

rabbet

Tray Front T

231/4

Side A

1/2"-wide by 3lb" deep dadoes

12"

Shelves B

Upeer Rail K

Tower Divider J

Side A

13"

FRONT EDGE

BACK EDGE

Top L (underside)

Cutting List • Desktop Organizer

REF

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

COMMENTS

A

4

Sides

Oak veneer ply

%

12

23%

B

6

Horizontal shelves

Oak veneer ply

%

113/

15 M

C

2

Tower backs

Oak veneer ply

A

15K

235/a

D

2

Bridge sides

Oak veneer ply

%

VA

VA

E

2

Bridge dividers

Oak veneer ply

%

VA

6%

F

2

Horizontal bridge shelves

Oak veneer ply

y,

VA

22'A

G

1

Bridge backboard

Oak veneer ply

%

VA

24

H

1

Light guard

Solid wood

v.

3A

24

J

Tower dividers

Oak veneer ply

V,

133/a

113/

K

1

Upper rail

Oak veneer ply

%

VA

VA

L

1

Top

Oak veneer ply

%

13

58

M

Side mouldings

Oak veneer ply

%

3/

13%

N

1

Front moulding

Oak veneer ply

%

3A

5834

P

1

Door front

Solid wood

%

8 'A

m

Pull-

Out Trays

Hardware and

Q

4

Sides

Baltic birch ply

A

23As

11

Screws

R

4

Backs and fronts

Baltic birch ply

A

2Y\s

13%

Nails

S

2

Bottoms

Baltic birch ply

'A

11

14%

Glue

T

2

Tray fronts

Solid oak

%

3'A

15

Biscuits or dowels

107° hidden hinges Commercial CD racks (optional) Door handles

Metric Cutting List • Desktop Organizer

REF.

QTY.

PART

MATERIAL

THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

A

4

Sides

Oak veneer ply

19

305

600

B

6

Horizontal shelves

Oak veneer ply

19

298

387

C

2

Tower backs

Oak veneer ply

6

387

600

D

2

Bridge sides

Oak veneer ply

19

197

191

E

2

Bridge dividers

Oak veneer ply

19

197

171

F

2

Horizontal bridge shelves

Oak veneer ply

19

197

572

G

1

Bridge backboard

Oak veneer ply

6

191

610

H

1

Light guard

Solid wood

19

89

610

J

Tower dividers

Oak veneer ply

19

340

298

K

1

Upper rail

Oak veneer ply

19

38

191

L

1

Top

Oak veneer ply

19

330

1473

M

Side mouldings

Oak veneer ply

19

19

340

N

1

Front moulding

Oak veneer ply

19

19

1492

P

1

Door front

Solid wood

19

216

318

Pull-Out Trays

Q

4

Sides

Baltic birch ply

13

56

279

R

4

Backs and fronts

Baltic birch ply

13

56

354

S

2

Bottoms

Baltic birch ply

13

279

367

T

2

Tray fronts

Solid oak

19

89

COMMENTS

m Prepare the four sides (A) by applying wood veneer tape to the front (long) edge of each. As we did in other projects, use a flush-trim bit in a router to clean up the overhang on the edge tape.

The four sides require three stopped dadoes, a stopped tenon and a rabbet cut. Follow the Illustration for the cut locations. Use a router and >T-wide straight bit for the dadoes and the table saw for the rabbets and tenons. All the dadoes, as well as the rabbet, are on the Inside face of each sideboard. Be sure to orient the boards properly in pairs with the wood veneer edge to the front. The stopped tenon Is on the top edge of each panel.

If you don't have a router or 'A" bit, you can use butt joints, screws and glue. Adjust the panel sizes accordingly when eliminating the tenons.

Each side horizontal shelf (B) will have one 15'A" edge covered with veneer. This will be the front edge of each board. Both side edges require a tenon that's A" thick and %" deep on all the shelves. The tenons are stopped 1" short of the front edge. Round over the front corners of each tenon so they'll fit into the dadoes on the sideboards.

Each side horizontal shelf (B) will have one 15'A" edge covered with veneer. This will be the front edge of each board. Both side edges require a tenon that's A" thick and %" deep on all the shelves. The tenons are stopped 1" short of the front edge. Round over the front corners of each tenon so they'll fit into the dadoes on the sideboards.

If you don't have a router or 'A" bit, you can use butt joints, screws and glue. Adjust the panel sizes accordingly when eliminating the tenons.

Two of the horizontal shelves (B) need two stopped dadoes on the top face. They will receive the vertical divider tenons in each tower. Cut the dadoes as detailed in the drawing, making sure they stop 1" short of the front edge.

r fT 1 Cut the two backs (C) and assemble both towers. Use glue to secure L^ J the tenons In the dadoes and glue with brad nails to attach the backs. Leave both assemblies clamped until the adhesive sets.

m Assemble the bridge by first applying glue to secure the dividers. The end boards are attached with glue and 2" screws through the outside face of each panel into the horizontal shelf ends. To complete the bridge assembly, cut and install the backboard (G) with glue and brad nails.

i 1 the s'x Pane's 'or bridge. Apply wood veneer tape to the front LVJJ edge of each board. The two dividers (E) need a tenon A" wide by ST high on both top and bottom edges, stopped 1" short of the front edge. The horizontal shelves (F) need the corresponding stopped dado to receive the tenons.

Attach the bridge to the two towers with glue and 1" screws driven through the tower side panels. Counterbore the screw holes and fill them with wood plugs before installing the tower dividers. The bridge is aligned with the back side of each tower and level with the bottom of each side tenon.

The light guard is made from solid wood and has the bottom front edge rounded over with a %" router bit. Secure the guard to the bottom of the bridge, flush with the front edge of the bottom board, using glue and biscuits. Drive a 2"-long finishing nail through the inside of each tower side and into the light guard end to further secure this board.

[1 Al Cut the L-H-'J four tower dividers (J) and apply wood veneer tape to the front edge on each board. Form a stopped tenon that's /' wide by 3/a" high, centered on the top and bottom edge, of each divider. As with all the other tenons, cut them 1" short of the front edge on each panel. Install the dividers with glue on the tenons and nails driven through the backboard. Take care to align the dividers properly.

r 1 1 1 sect'on where a door will be Installed in the right L J- -LJ side tower requires an upper rail. Use 3A" plywood veneer with a taped bottom edge, or use a solid piece of wood. Apply glue to the ends and clamp the rail flush with the top edges of dividers. This rail is needed to provide door-to-top board clearance.

The top board requires matching dadoes to accept the eight tenons. Each dado must be A" wide by 3/B" deep and stopped 1" short of the front edge. Use the drawing as a guide to find the dado placement. However, the best method Is to lay the top board In place and mark the dado positions. After cutting the top board (L) to size, form a stopped rabbet on the back underside face. The rabbet is X" wide by 3f deep and stopped 1" short at both ends. Apply glue to the tenons as well as on top of the bridge and clamp the top In place. Use brad nails to secure the backboards.

Select a suitable moulding that's V high and attach to the front and two sides of the top board. Use glue and brad nails to secure the strips. Miter the corners at 45°. Once again, use the measurements in the cutting list as a guide. It's good practice to confirm the dimensions on your project.

Build two pull-out trays using the dimensions listed. Each tray side (Q) requires a If-wide by M"-deep rabbet on both ends to accept the front and back boards. Assemble the tray box with glue and brad nails. Cut the bottom board accurately as It will force the box Into square when installed.

iBttn,,,,, r "1 pT 1 The two tray fronts are solid wood pieces with the front face rounded over. Use a roundover L^-^ J bit in a router to ease the edges. Secure the fronts to each tray box with 1" screws driven through the front board and into the backside of the tray i.ant.

il fil Ther'9ht L-L^J side tower door is solid wood and mounted with 107° full-overlay hidden hinges. See chapter five for door-mounting instructions. I've also installed a small barrel lock on this door. These locks are simple to install and are available in most home centers.

I used a spray lacquer to linish my organizer. Getting a paintbrush into all the small compartmenls would have been messy and time-consuming. There are hundreds of finishes available in spray cans so you should be able lo match the desk linish where the organizer will be installed.

Once again, I built this project using my favorite multi-core veneer board. However, any sheet material such as wood veneer plywood or wood veneer PB can be used. If the organizer is going to be finished with a solid color, consider MDF as an alternative. MDF is relatively inexpensive and is easily machined.

Don't get discouraged by the number ol dadoes and tenons lor this project. If you don't have the equipmenl or experience, use bull joinls, glue and screws. In my opinion, it's perfectly acceptable.

As always, I've detailed a project with panel positions and features to suit my requirements If the placement of these section panels doesn't meet your needs, change them accordingly Everyone has special storage problems, so build a unit that lunctions lor you.

The bridge section determines the overall width ol the organizer. Its dimension is variable. II your desk isn't 60" wide, change the bridge dimensions. That is also true of the overall width for the organizer and it is easily modified to your situation.

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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