Garage Sale Toolkit
3 Cut the drawer fronts to size and length and work the decorative groove using a router with a 'V'-groove cutter. Chamfer the face of the front between the decorative groove and the edge with a plane, and clean up the corners of the 'V' grooves with a sharp chisel. In the front pieces of the plywood drawers, make holes for the screws that will join them to the false fronts.
The jury pointed out these things, suggesting that the man clean up the shoulders of his tenons. The furniture maker chose to ignore the advice and brought back the same chair when he reapplied, protesting, This is the way a country craftsman would have built the chair 100 years ago.
To rough-out the mortise, clamp a fence on the drill press and adjust it so you're drilling exactly on the center of the stile. Drill a series of holes to rough out the length of the mortise, see Fig. 6. Then clean up the sides (cheeks) of the mortise with a sharp chisel.
Begin by chopping down just inside the shoulder line, then chip away the stock with horizontal blows. Pare to the shoulder line and clean up the sides. Chop out the pins. Begin by chopping down just inside the shoulder line, then chip away the stock with horizontal blows. Pare to the shoulder line and clean up the sides.
Why I didn't see it coming is a good question I guess it was inevitable. As soon as I finished the Arts & Crafts dining chairs featured on page 30, my trusty old dining room table began a slow, sad journey to a garage sale. My wife, Susie, mentioned how much nicer those chairs would look in our dining room with a new table to match their style and finish. I had to admit she had a good point. So I like to create several at once on the table saw, cutting them to the shape shown in the Decorative Butterflies Drawing above. I clean up the edges with files, rasps and sandpaper. Clean up each outline with sharp
If you have access to a mortising attachment for your drill press, cutting true, square mortises is easy work. However, most of us drill out the waste on a drill press, then clean up with a sharp chisel (as shown in the sidebar at right). Whichever method you use, make a few test mortises first. Grain direction is a significant issue with wide grained species such as white oak a sharp cut along the grain can cause splitting, so work across the grain whenever possible. One last tip on this procedure be sure the surface you are drilling into is without voids to steer clear of unsightly tearout.
(pieces 11) to the dimensions shown on the Material List, follow the Pinup Shop Drawings to lay out the mortises in the side arched rails. Chop these mortises, then make a full-sized pattern for the arched profile. Trace the shape onto all four of the chair's curved rails, and band saw them to shape. Clean up the cuts with a drum sander chucked in your drill press.
The two curved back rails require a few more steps than the seat rails. Mill up extra-thick blanks and cut the offset tenons on the ends. For consistency, it helps to make a template showing both the inside and outside curves of the rail (see drawing, left). Trace the concave curve first, then remove the waste with a bandsaw, and clean up the surface using a spokeshave or sandpaper. If you prefer, you can use the template to make a jig to clean up the surfaces using either a router or shaper. Now use a marking gauge to scribe the -in. thickness of these rails, referencing off the just-milled front faces. The next operation is to arch the top of the crest rail using the same method and template used to shape the back seat rail (save the cutoff). Finally, cut the convex curves of the crest and bottom rails on the bandsaw, just leaving the line. Clean up these faces with a disk or belt sander. Finally, cut the curves on the backs of the top rails. Leave the scribe line, and clean up the...
The laminates can now be cut out on the bandsaw and finished to size on the thicknesser, ensuring that enough waste is left on the laminates to account for the considerable cleaning up required after removing from the former. Cleaning up, finishing I always use the minimum of sanding in the final cleaning up stage, as I prefer the finish that is obtained with a cabinet scraper. The turned rails may, however, need some sanding while on the lathe, and the sharp edges can be removed from the chair by using
Before gluing, I always dry-fit and clamp the parts together to discover any problems that may arise while there's still time to solve them. To ease assembly, I chamfer the ends of each tenon. Glue-ups can be stressful, but it is worth taking care to place the glue so as to avoid drips and oozing joints that would be a headache to clean up later. With a thin stick about half the width of an ice-cream stick, I apply a light amount of glue into the mortise and on both tenon cheeks. The flat edge of the stick is perfect to squeeze out the glue in a thin, even layer. Another trick that works well is to cut a light chamfer around the mortise to contain any squeeze-out. Ideally, the joint should slip together under light clamping pressure.
Make the mortises near the top ends of the supports on your drill press. Drill a series of Vi diameter holes, Va deep to rough out the mortises, then clean up the edges with a chisel. (See Figure 1.) 1 To make the mortises for the handle, first dnH a series of holes. Then clean up the edges with a chisel.
1 Cut the two door pieces to size and form a rebate on one edge of both to make an overlap. On the front of each door, make the decorative groove using a router fitted with a 'V' groove cutter. Clean up the corners of the groove with a bevel-edged chisel. (These grooves can be cleaned up with glasspaper on a shaped block if they do not cut cleanly.) Form a slope on the face of the
With the tool's base plate flat on the workpiece and flush against the stop block, ease the bit into the stock until the pilot bearing reaches the tenon shoulder. Feed the router along the end of the board, stopping when the base plate contacts a second stop block (inset) or the bit reaches the edge of the workpiece (above). Clean up the edges of the tenon with a chisel.
4 Glue and assemble the four corners and, with the base placed temporarily inside, clamp the sides. (The base will hold the sides square as the glue dries.) When the glue on the corners is dry, glue and pin the base supports around the inside of the base of the sides, and pin the base to them. Clean up the joints at the corners with a plane, and screw a wooden knob to the drawer front.
2 On all four boards, rebate the back inside edges where the plywood back will eventually be housed. The rebates on the two sides are stopped and should be made with a router, while those on the top and base are through rebates and should be cut with a rebating plane or a router. Clean up the corners of the stopped rebates with a small, bevel-edged chisel.
And make the tenons for the bare-faced housing joints on the ends (see page 16). Form the corresponding housings in the two sides with a router, cleaning up in the corners with a bevel-edged chisel. Assemble without glue to check for fit. 4 Glue the rails to the sides and clamp for a couple of hours until the glue is set, then clean up the joints with a plane. Cut out the four triangular corner braces and fix in position with glue and screws.
11 After rubbing the surface out. wipe it thoroughly with a soft cloth to clean up all remnants of the pumice and oil When you finish, you should feel no oil on the surface, which should be extremely smooth and have a soft, warm color 11 After rubbing the surface out. wipe it thoroughly with a soft cloth to clean up all remnants of the pumice and oil When you finish, you should feel no oil on the surface, which should be extremely smooth and have a soft, warm color
I based my design on illustrations in Jean Pallardy's book, The Early Furniture of French Canada. Building the chest with handtools is pleasant, but you might prefer power tools for some operations. I hollowed out the three 2 -in.-thick planks for the sides and lid with a scrub plane, for example, but you could remove most of the waste with a tablesaw, then clean up the surface with a handplane. Begin by cutting all the stock slightly larger than the dimensions shown in the drawing, and lay out all the parts. Select straight-grained, easily worked lumber. I used American chestnut, but pine or butternut also work well. Small knots are okay, but can be hard to plane. piece end-for-end and make the same cut on the other side of the centerline. Repeat the cuts, lowering the blade as needed, until you hollow the side. Clean up with a scrub plane. After assembling the lid, you may have to plane around the lid and base to level the pieces. Don't take off too much, or you'll spoil the fit...
Most old craftsmen only kissed the joints with glue, a dab on each tenon and perhaps a wipe across the shoulders, a brushful across the end of dovetails which were then smeared across the pin section, a trickle of glue run into the housings dadoes. This was deliberate as it saved time applying and time in cleaning up, but the joints did fit and the glue was fairly thick but with modern glues of low viscosity there is always a danger of starved joints if only a minimum of glue is used and the wood absorbent or the cramping clamping pressure too great. Moreover, there is no comparison between this day and age and 80 years ago, for furniture must now withstand the ravages of central heating, and so every part should be glued thoroughly. If the surfaces are delicate then a wash coat of white shellac or cellulose can be applied up to but not over the glue-line to protect the surface, and a stick of chalk rubbed across the extreme edge of meeting joints will
1 Cut the wood for the two upright posts to size and plane all faces square. Using a router with a 3 8in (10mm) core-box cutter, form the three ornamental flutes on the face of each post (see Fig 10.3) and then clean up with glasspaper wrapped around a piece of 3 sin (9mm) dowel (see Fig 10.4).
And on the front and back, mark and cut the pins. Assemble all four sides without gluing and make any necessary adjustments to the joints. Cut the large dovetails on the ends of the muntin and, with the four sides still assembled, mark the position of the large dovetail housing on the bottom edge of the front and back using the tails as a template. Cut out these housings using tenon and coping saws. Glue up the sides and muntin and, when dry, clean up with a plane.
A smaller version of the smoothing-plane not available in wooden form which can be held in one hand is the metal block-plane, and this 6 in (152 mm) plane is best obtained with an adjustable mouth and cutter. The cheaper versions are not fully adjustable and the cutter position must be set by trial and error. For working large rebates (rabbets) in which a heavy section is to be taken out, a special bench rabbet-plane is obtainable, and for general light rabbeting, etc., the improved rabbet-plane which, if fitted with sliding fence, depth-stop and spur for scoring across the grain ahead of the cutter to prevent tearing out, becomes the rebate- and fillister-plane, although the term 'fillister' is tending to die out. (Rabbet probably a carpenter's corruption of rebate to deduct from, to diminish . Fillister also means a groove or rebate.) Truing up the sides of rebates and cleaning up the shoulders of tenons, etc., can be done with the shoulder rabbet-plane with machined parallel sides...
Straight end and one mitre simultaneously. With hide glue narrow strips hardly need wetting before laying, and this should be avoided wherever possible as it only swells up the strips, nor need the strips be laid with an overlap for it is simple enough to cut each strip exactly square, glue, hammer in position and tape the joint with a temporary weight placed over it to keep it from curling. If cramping techniques are employed it is better to use resin glue, fitting, gluing and cramping each section in sequence, for there will be ample time to fit the joints while for press-work with either hide glue and cauls or resin glue and veneer-press the strips can be assembled, taped and laid as a whole, driving in fine veneer pins and pinching off the tops to prevent the veneers floating in the press. The glue should be thoroughly hard before the surplus edges are trimmed back, and care should be taken not to hit or round over the faces when cleaning up. In fact, it will always pay to tack...
Making Money With Garage Sales
Is your home bursting at the seams with stuff? Is every closet crammed so full that any one of them is a death trap waiting to be opened? Has it been years since the last time you parked the car in the garage? Never fear, help is on the way. You need to get rid of some of that stuff. Dont you dare call it junk. Remember, one man or womans trash is another ones treasure!