Adze: An ax-like tool with a curved blade used to carve out concave surfaces, such as chair seats.

Auxiliary fence: A wooden attachment screwed to the rip fence of a table saw or other machine, to prevent damage to the metal fence.

Base molding: A decorative frame made from molded stock that supports the bottom of a desk.

Bead: A rounded, convex shape cut in wood, usually for decoration; see cove.

Bending form: A jig used to bend steamed wood.

Bookmatching: In veneering, a decorative pattern in which successive veneers cut from the same log are arranged side-by-side so as to mirror each other's image like pages of an open book.

Bow: The curved upper rail of a sackback Windsor chair.

Brad-point bit: A drill bit featuring a sharpened centerpoint and two cutting spurs on its circumference; produces cleaner holes than a twist bit and does not tend to skate on the surface when starting a hole.

Carcase: A piece of furniture with a boxlike construction; made from solid panels.

Caul: Used in veneering or gluing up carcases, a board placed between clamps and the workpiece to distribute clamping pressure.

Chamfer: A bevel cut along the edge of a workpiece.

Cheek: In a mortise-and-tenon joint, that part of the tenon parallel to the wood grain and perpendicular to the shoulder.

Clearance hole: A hole bored in a workpiece to allow free passage of the shank of a screw.

Corner block: A triangular block of wood screwed to an inside corner of a table's leg-and-rail assembly to reinforce and square the joint.

Counterbore: To drill a hole so the head of a screw or bolt will sit below the wood surface and be concealed with a wood plug.

Countersink: To drill a hole so the head of a screw will lie flush with or slightly below the wood surface.

Cove: A concave decorative profile cut in wood, usually along an edge; see bead.

Crown or cornice molding: Molding attached to the top of a piece of furniture.

Cutting list: A list of the dimensions of the lumber needed for a specific project.

Dado: A rectangular channel cut into a workpiece.

Dovetailed half-lap joint: Used for joining the top drawer rail of a table to the legs; the half-lap at the end of the rail is cut in a dovetail shape to lock the joint in tension.

Dovetail joint: A method of joinery using interlocking pins and tails; the name derives from the distinctive shape cut into the ends of the joining boards.

Drop-leaf table: A table with a narrow top and hinged leaves that fold down when not in use.

Dust frame: A flat frame used to support desk drawers.

Escutcheon: A metal plate installed around a keyhole for decoration and protection of the surrounding wood.

False front: A piece of wood installed over a drawer front, usually to conceal the end grain of the sides.

Featherboard: A board with thin, flexible fingers or "feathers" along one end, clamped to the fence or table of a stationary tool to hold the workpiece securely.

Fillet: In a rule joint, the short, flat surface at the top of the rounded-over portion of the joint; the pins of the rule-joint hinges are aligned with the fillet.

Finial: An ornament—usually turned or carved—projecting from the upper corners of a piece of furniture.

Fly rail: A short wood piece that swings out from a table side rail to support a drop leaf.

Froe: An L-shaped tool with a beveled blade that is struck by a club to rive, or split, green wood.

Glass-stop molding: Decorative strips of wood used to hold a pane of glass in place in a door.

Green wood: Freshly cut, unseasoned wood.

Half-blind dovetail: Similar to the through dovetail joint, except that the pins are not cut through the entire thickness of the workpiece, thus concealing the end grain of the tail boards.

Inlay: A decorative strip of metal, hardwood or marquetry that is glued in a groove cut into a workpiece.

Kerf: A cut made in wood by a saw blade.

Kickback: The tendency of a workpiece to be thrown back in the direction of the saw operator by a moving blade or cutter on a woodworking machine or tool.

Knuckle joint: A joint consisting of interlocking fingers fixed together by a wooden pin; enables a fly rail to pivot away from a table side rail.

Lamb's tongue: On a pencil-post bed, the shape at the bottom of the octagonal portion of a bedpost.

Loper: On a slant-top desk, a board that slides out of a housing to support the fall-front in the horizontal position.

Mortise-and-tenon joint: A joinery technique in which a projecting tenon on one board fits into a mortise on another.

Mortise: A rectangular, round, or oval hole cut into a piece of wood to receive a matching tenon.

Neoclassicism: An 18th-Century design movement inspired by the esthetic principles of classical Greece and Rome.

Pigeonhole: A framework of small dividers and drawers in a desk; sometimes removable.

Pilot bearing: A cylindrical metal collar either above or below the router bit's cutting edge that rides along the work-piece or a template, guiding the bit during a cut.

Pilot hole: A hole bored into a work-piece to accommodate a nail shaft or the threaded part of a screw; usually slightly smaller than the fastener diameter. The hole guides the fastener and prevents splitting.

Plate joint: A method of joining using oval wafers of compressed wood that fit into slots cut in mating boards.

Pocket hole: An angled hole bored into the face of a workpiece and exiting from its top edge.

Pommel: A rounded shoulder produced on the lathe; serves to separate square and cylindrical sections of a workpiece.

Rabbet: A step-like cut in the edge or end of a board; usually forms part of a joint.

Rail: A board running along the bottom edge of a tabletop to which the legs can be attached; also, the horizontal member of a frame and panel assembly; see stile.

Rake angle: The angle at which a chair leg or post deviates from the vertical when viewed from the side of the chair; see splay angle.

Reveal: The gap between the outside surfaces of a table rail and the adjoining legs; serves a decorative purpose.

Riving: The technique of splitting wood from a freshly felled log with a sledgehammer and wedges to separate the wood along the fibers.

Rule joint: A pivoting joint commonly used in drop-leaf tables; features mating concave and convex profiles cut into the edges of the table leaf and top.

Shoulder: In a mortise-and-tenon joint, the part of the tenon perpendicular to the cheek. In a dovetail joint, the valleys between the pins or tails.

Sliding dovetail joint: A joinery method in which a dovetailed slide on one piece fits into a matching groove in the other.

Splay angle: The angle at which a chair leg or post deviates from the vertical when viewed from the front of the chair; see rake angle.

Steam bending: The technique of softening wood for bending by subjecting it to steam and heat, and then bending it around a curved form.

Stile: The vertical member of a frame-and-panel assembly; see rail.

Stopped dado: A dado that stops before crossing the full width or thickness of a workpiece.

Substrate: A piece of plywood or solid wood used as the foundation for veneer or leather that covers the surface of a desk top.

Template: A pattern cut from plywood, hardwood, or particleboard used to produce multiple copies of a part.

Tenon: A protrusion from the end of a board that fits into a mortise.

Tester: A light framework that joins the tops of the bedposts in a four-poster bed, often used to hang a canopy or drapery.

Through dovetail joint: A method of joining wood at the corners by means of interlocking pins and tails, both cut through the thickness of the workpiece.

Travisher: A type of spokeshave designed for smoothing concave surfaces.

Urn: A decorative element turned in spindle work; often part of a finial.

Veneer: A thin layer of decorative wood used to dress up a more common species of wood.

Wood button: A small, square-shaped block with a rabbet at one end that is used to secure the top of a piece of furniture.

Wood movement: The shrinking or swelling of wood in reaction to changes in relative humidity.

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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