The case for this clock is just a box that's sized to fit the door frame and is deep enough for the clock works.
The first step in building the case is to cut the two sides (D), the top (E) and the bottom (E) to final width (3%"). The sides (D) can be cut to final length (to match the height of the door frame). However, the final length of the top and bottom pieces is determined by the tongue and groove joint used to join the case.
To cut this joint, I started by cutting a Vt" x Va groove in the side pieces (D), see Fig. 8. Then rabbets are cut on the ends of the top and bottom pieces, leaving tongues that fit these grooves, see Fig. 9. Note: the distance between the shoulder of these rabbets determines the final width of the case, which must equal the width of the door frame.
grooves for front. In order to mount the moving moon dial, a plywood front piece (G) must be mounted to the case. I cut W'-deep grooves for this plywood piece. These grooves are positioned W from the front edge of each piece to allow clearance for the clock hands between the dial and the glass door, see Fig. 8.
rabbet for back. Finally, W'-deep rabbets are cut on the back edge of the sides for the plywood back (F).
plywood front. After the four basic pieces for the case are completed, they're dry-assembled to get measurements for the plywood front (G). The center of this plywood panel is cut out to fit around the clock works. I cut this hole to allow a W overlap for attaching the dial, see Fig. 11.
.assembly. Finally, I glued up the clock case using the plywood front to hold the case square as it's clamped together. After the case was assembled, I cut the W plywood back (F) to fit the rabbet in the back of the case.
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