And Stop

MARKS FOR FINGER LIP 3" APART

THE TRAY

When this case is closed, it looks like there are two drawers. However, only the bottom half is a drawer. The top half is actually a tray that holds the two side frames together.

The tray front (H) and back (G) are cut to width and length (allowing for the tenons), see Fig. 7. Then tenons are cut in both pieces to fit the mortises already in the side frames. However, the position of these tenons is critical. The tenons must be cut so the final position of the top edges of the tray front (H) and back (G) allow enough space for the lid.

That is, you need to allow Wid' for the thickness of the lid, plus another Yh" between the lid and the top edge of the side frame, or a total of lbAd'. This means the top shoulder of the tenon is 9/ie" deep.

groove. Next, a V*" x W groove is cut on both pieces for the plywood tray bottom (M). Set up the saw to cut this groove 2" from the top edge of both pieces.

tray sides. Finally, rabbets are cut on the inside corners of both pieces for the tray sides, see Detail in Fig. 7. However, before cutting these rabbets, it's best to cut the tray sides (J) first so you know what their final thickness will be, and thus the final dimensions for the rabbets.

I thought it would look much better if the tray sides were fairly narrow, so I resawed a piece of 13/i6"-thick stock. This is simply a matter of ripping on edge to yield two pieces about W thick.

After the sides are cut, the rabbets can be cut on the inside corners of the tray front and the back.

ASSEMBLY. Finally, all of these pieces can be glued and clamped to the side frames. (As mentioned above, round over the edges of the side frames before final assembly.)

the drawer. All that remains is to build the drawer. Since there's only one small drawer, it might be nice to use hand-cut dovetails (see Woodsmith No. 19). However, we're showing a much easier joint — a simple rabbet and groove, see Fig. 9. (The joint for the front is a half-blind version of this joint.)

Before assembling the drawer, rout a %"-wide groove in the drawrer sides for drawer runners. Then, after the drawer is assembled, the drawer runners are cut and screwed to the side frames.

finger lip. The last step is to mount the lid. I cut mortises in the back (G) and the lid for %" x 2" butt hinges, see Fig. 10. Before mounting the lid, I also routed a finger lip on the front edge, see Fig. 11.

finishing. To finish this case, I applied two coats of thinned-down white shellac (3 lb.-cut shellac thinned 50/50 with denatured alcohol). Finally, I applied a coat of Renaissance wax.

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