Extending ft to pft Dining Table with Screw

The simple extending dining table shown by Figs. 25 to 2d should be made of mahogany, oak, or walnut. In Fig. 28, a is a half-plan from underneath, and b a half-plan inner rails or slides and the two cross rails should be of hardwood, such as beech or birch. The special screw can be obtained from almost any furnishing ironmonger. In constructing the framework, plane the stuff to the sizes given, and set out the mortices of the legs and the tenons of the rails (see Fig. 29). The mortices made for the inner sliding rails are farther from the front edge of the legs than those for the outer rails, as shown in Figs. 28, 30, and .'>1. Plough the slides from their top edges. 1 in. wide and £ in. deep. This groove can be made with a \-in. plough-iron, or with a rebate plane bv fixing a strip of wood at the right distance parallel to the top edge. A piece of hardwood should be planed so as to fit nicely in the grooves, and should then be firmly glued into the groove of the inner rail. The moulding on the bottom of the outer rails o (Figs. 31 and 32) is next fixed with glue and screws. The cross rails a and b (Figs. 30 and 31) should be dovetailed to the sliding rails—b to the inner rails, and a into the projecting moulding, as shown in Figs. 28 and 33. Make these dovetails carefully, or the rails, through not being parallel, will prevent proper working. When the joints are properly fitted, those between

Fig. 25. —-Extending 6-ft to 9-ft Dining Table with Screw.

Fig. 25. —-Extending 6-ft to 9-ft Dining Table with Screw.

with top removed. The legs are turned from stuff about 5 in. square. The outer nils for the framework may be solid, or the outside portion may be of ^-in. staff glued to a backing as shown. The the logs and the rails, and between the cross rails and the rails, should be glued together, keeping the legs and rails square. The cross rails should also have a of screws inserted, as shown in t

Top of Extending Table.—Well-seasoned material for the top can be obtained in widths about 1 ft. 6 in., and each half will then require only one joint. The leaves are also 1 ft. 6 in. wide. The top should be dowelled and glued, and the under sides of the top and leaves trued up. Next join together the two portions of the permanent top and the two leaves, and dowel them with hardwood pins about f in. in diameter, projecting about £ in. (see Fig. 34). The whole top should then be turned bottom side up, the framework stretched out to its full length (see Fig. 30), put on and fastened to the two permanent parts of the top by screws

Figs. 26 and 27.—End and Side Elevations of Extending Dining Table.

Fig. 28.—Half Plan and Half Underneath View of Extending Dining Table.

Plan Extended Table
  1. 30.—Part Plan of Framework of Table, Extended.
  2. 26 and 27.—End and Side Elevations of Extending Dining Table.
  3. 30.—Part Plan of Framework of Table, Extended.
  4. 28.—Half Plan and Half Underneath View of Extending Dining Table.
  5. 29.—Tamed Leg of Dining Table.
Sliding Extending Table

Fig. 33.—Section through Sliding Bails of Table.

Fig. S3.—Joint between Cross and Side Rails of Table.

inserted obliquely, as clearly shown in an illustration (Fig. 32) given below.

Fixing the Screw and Barrel.—The screw and barrel should now be fixed. Secure the handle end of the screw to the end rail of the table. To the cross rail b (Figs. 30 and 31) fix the box in which the screw works, and which holds one end of the barrel ; fix the other end of the barrel to the under side of the top, a wood block probably being necessary for this purpose. Slightly tighten the screw so as to hold the top firmly together, plane the top anU leaves, and work the moulding round the edges.

  1. S3.—Joint between Cross and Side Rails of Table.
  2. 33.—Section through Sliding Bails of Table.
  3. 31.—Framework of Extending Dining Table.

Completing the Extending Table.—The thicknessing fillet shown in section by i> (Fig. 32), having a small bead worked on one edge and the other rounded, should be mitered at the angles e and f (Figs. 28 and 30), and fixed with glue and screws. Have the two side pieces long enough to Teach from end to end, thus taking in the two leaves; cut with a fine saw where

Fig. 34.—Corner of Table Leal will extend to i> ft. with two 1-ft. «»-in. leaves. It would be firmer if it extended to 8 ft. in. only, with leaves 1 ft. 3 in. wide. This would give the sliding rails a_ lap of 2 ft. instead of 1 ft. 6 in.

the joints of the leaves should occur, as shown by a, h, and k (Fig. 30). A stop l prevents the framework moving too far. The table when closed is G ft. long, and

Fig. SB.—Falling-leaf Gate-leg Table with Turned Legs and Bails.

Fig. 35 is the general view of a table with a flap supported by gate legs. All the legs and lower rails are turned. Mahogany, oak, walnut, pitchpine, and yellow pine are suitable woods. The sizes of the various pieces may be varied to suit requirements. Having cut the necessary pieces to the several lengths, plane them up to the proper sizes. If desired, the legs and rails may be turned before being

Fig. 36.—Framework of Falling-leaf Gate-leg Table.

planed, but this is not always so satisfactory as planing up material true beforehand. Next set out the legs and rails for mortice-and-tenon joints. Fig. 36 shows all the framework. The ends of the turned rails have the tenons mitered at the extremities (see Fig. 37); this allows the mortices in the leg tenons to be made so that the tenons nearly meet. The long turned rails to which the rails of the movable legs are attached are set further back from the face of the legs; therefore the tenon must be made nearer the front of the rail,

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