Each leg is secured in the jig by screwing into the areas to be mortised, so mark out mortise locations on both faces.
End blocks, IV2 in. thick
Clamp the jig to a bench to rout the leg shape. A long bearing-guided bit can do the job in one pass; a shorter bit requires you to flip the jig and make two passes.
Screw jig to leg at mortise locations.
Cut leg to rough shape, then place it in the jig.
Router box simplifies mortising_
comfort. I use jigs to duplicate curved and angled parts, and to create accurate angled joineiy. These jigs will come in handy if you decide to build a set of chairs.
First, trace the back legs on the stock using a full-size template made from Vi-in.-thick Masonite. Rough-cut the legs to shape using a jigsaw or bandsaw, being careful to leave the line. The only cuts that should be exactly to the line at this point are the top and bottom cross-grain cuts.
For final shaping, mount the back legs in a template-routing jig (see photos and drawing, p. 55) that works with both legs. Use a large-diameter, bearing-guided straight bit (V2 in. or more). Amana makes a lVs-in.-dia. by lV2-in.-long bit with a top-mounted ball-bearing guide (part No. 45468) that allows you to shape the leg in one pass.
Once you have both rear legs shaped, cut the front legs to length. Now you're ready to lay out and cut the mortises.
Aluminum bar stock to fit router baseplate
This jig allows you to cut angled and straight mortises in the legs with a plunge router. It also allows for mortising for the loose tenons in the ends of the side rails.
Fence, 8 in. long, rides along box sides to ensure straight cuts.
Notch for end-mortising, IV* in. wide by 4 in. long
Wedge leg in box for mortising. Adhesive-backed sandpaper prevents the wedges from slipping.
Plywood sides, 3A in. thick by 47/i6 in. wide by 26V* in. long
Mortise is angled.
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