Fine Woodworking

dovetail joints also add a decorative twist. The side stretchers connect to the legs with slip tenons, and the cross stretchers are attached to the side stretchers with half-lapped dovetails.

With the chair dry-fitted and clamped together on a flat surface, measure and cut the lower stretchers to width and thickness. The side stretchers meet the legs at compound angles with slip-tenon joineiy. The mortises are already cut. To cut the compound angle on the ends of the stretchers, set a bevel square to the angle formed where the inside face of the rear leg and the flat surface meet. Set the tablesaw's miter gauge to that angle, set the blade to 85.5° (double-check that angle with another bevel gauge), and cut the compound angle on the rear end of one stretcher. To cut the opposite stretcher, reset the miter gauge past 90° to the same angle in the other

Install the cross stretchers after glue-up. Cut the half-lapped dovetails on the cross stretchers, then scribe them onto the side stretchers.

Install the cross stretchers after glue-up. Cut the half-lapped dovetails on the cross stretchers, then scribe them onto the side stretchers.

Screw in the corner blocks. The blocks help reinforce the corner joints and serve as anchors for the seat frame.

Photo, facing page (bottom right): Michael Pekovich

Elastic webbing stapled to frame

Cotton Leather

High-density batting upholstery foam

Mike Pekovich Dresser

Hardwood splines, V* in. thick by 3A in. wide

Michael Pekovich

The chair has a leather-upholstered seat, installed after the chair has been fumed and finished. The frame is screwed to the corner blocks between the rails.

Muslin fabric

Elastic webbing stapled to frame direction. Now cut the forward ends of the stretchers at 90°—with the miter gauge at 90° and the blade still at 85.5°—sneaking up on the length until they just fit.

Next, cut a 3/s-in.-wide mortise, centered in the end grain of each stretcher and about 3A in. deep. Diy-fit the slip tenons. When the fit is perfect, glue up the chair.

While this glue is setting, mill up the two cross stretchers. Once the stock is milled to width and thickness, locate where each

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Watch a free video of this chair being built, or purchase the full-size plans. Go to www.finewoodworking.com/buildingfurniture.

cross stretcher will meet the side stretchers. Cut each one to length, leaving them about Va in. extralong on both ends.

Hold a cross stretcher in place, and locate the shoulder cut by scribing a line on the underside where it meets the side stretcher. Cut a half-lapped dovetail on each end of each cross stretcher. Set the cross stretchers in place, then scribe and cut out the

The chair has a leather-upholstered seat, installed after the chair has been fumed and finished. The frame is screwed to the corner blocks between the rails.

Cotton Leather

High-density batting upholstery foam

Muslin fabric

6/8 in. thick by 2V2 in. wide dovetail slots in the side stretchers using a handsaw and chisels. Once the dovetail sockets have been cleaned out, glue the cross stretchers in place.

After the glue has set, sand all the stretchers flush on their upper faces, and go over the chair thoroughly for any residual glue squeeze-out and touch-up sanding. Finally, make up the corner blocks and screw them to the inside corners, flush with the upper edges of the front and rear seat rails. Add an additional screw hole up through the body of the corner blocks before attaching them. This will be used to attach the upholstered slip seat to the chair.

The very last item before finishing is installing the pyramid-shaped decorative pegs in the crest rail. I use ebony, but any hardwood species will work.

This white-oak chair is fumed, and finished with a topcoat of Tried & True linseed oil. The seat is upholstered in leather from Dualoy Inc. Cwww.dualoy.com). □

Kevin RodeI is a furniture maker and teacher in Brunswick, Maine.

Hardwood splines, V* in. thick by 3A in. wide

BUILDING CABINETS }

Chest of Drawers

Pekovich Chest
Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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