clean sides of mortise with chisel figure c trim length op tenon with multiple passes
figure c trim length op tenon with multiple passes
FIGURE 3 DETAil.
lower leg mortise
mortise and tenon on top rail lower rail
CUT MORTISE 3.-k" WIDE, AND W DEEP
grooves for panel backing are cut '/." x <M
note; groove in top rail stops 3" from both ends support rails
top/midole rails chisel, leaving the ends in the half-round shape, see Figs. 2 and 3.
tenons. After the mortises are cut, %"-long tenons are cut on the uprights and the middle rail. To cut the tenons, set the fence of the table saw %" from the outside of the blade, see Fig. B.
Then use a piece of scrap to set the height of the blade. Make passes over both faces of the workpiece, and gradually raise the blade until the thickness of the tenon fits snugly in the mortise.
Follow the same procedure to cut the shoulders of the tenon (see Fig, C) so it fits the length of the mortise. Then use a file to round over the corners to fit the rounded ends of the mortises.
Next, grooves are routed on the inside edge of the top and middle rails. These grooves are for the panel support rails (D), see Fig. 4.
The groove on the top rail must be stopped 3" from both ends so it doesn't show on the edges of the headboard. I cut this stopped groove on the router table.
Set the fence W from the inside edge of a W straight bit. Then mark the start and stop points on the edge of the rail. Now, plunge the rail on the bit to start the cut, and lift it off the bit to stop it.
The groove on the middle rail is 'cut with the same set-up on the router table, but this time, the groove doesn't have to be stopped, see Fig. 4.
support rails. After the grooves are cut, the support rails (D) are cut 2W wide and to rough length. (They're trimmed to final length later.)
CUT TONGUES. Then a tongue is cut on one edge of the support rails. To make the tongues, cut rabbets on both faces of the rails, leaving a tongue that fits snugly in the groove.
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